BK Princess Parlor - Double Wall issues

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Shimanok2

Member
Oct 19, 2012
27
New Hampshire
Hi all, new to the forums. I scoured them extensively when looking at buying a new BK, and now that I have it and am having a problem i figured what better place to go for some help.

On to the issue. I picked up the stove last weekend and early this week ordered some Selkirk double wall stove pipe. I began looking at the installation today after work and quickly realized that the masonry adapter will not slide into my current 6" thimble. The old woodstove had single wall 6" pipe, and the tapered end slid in perfectly. It's very confusing to me that the 6" masonry adapter does not do the same. Is this not it's function? See below for a current photo. It appears the current thimble is just under 6" on the ID, maybe a hair over 5 7/8".

Thanks in advance for any and all the help and have a good weekend!

BK Princess Parlor - Double Wall issues
 
I am not that familiar with the Selkirk line but it looks like you have the wrong part. Actually I'm not sure you need an adapter. Does the exterior crimped end of the regular DSP pipe fit into the existing masonry thimble?
 
You will need to get a 6" SS slip section. This slip can be mounted onto the double wall pipe the pushed into the thimble. You should be able to get a slip from any local stove shop. They are 16" long so you will likely need to cut it to fit, make sure you have a grinder handy.
 
Ahh, I tried that too. No, it doesn't work. The crimped end of the DPS is the the same diameter as the masonry adapter end, maybe a tad bigger. It's almost like the thimble is wrong, definitely not 6" on the ID. I was thinking that maybe I could but some type of double wall to single wall adapter, as i know the single wall will work. Unfortunately thought I wasn't able to locate such an item online.
 
My question is why in the world do you want double wall connector pipe for that short of a connection to the thimble? Use single wall and let the heat go into the room, not up the chimney.
 
It sounds like your old stove pipe might have been upside down. The tapered end, or male end should go down.
 
My question is why in the world do you want double wall connector pipe for that short of a connection to the thimble? Use single wall and let the heat go into the room, not up the chimney.
The last few BK's I installed only gave clearances using double wall pipe, as if thats all they want you to use. They really stress it for the best effieciency. But I agree with you.
 
You will need to get a 6" SS slip section. This slip can be mounted onto the double wall pipe the pushed into the thimble. You should be able to get a slip from any local stove shop. They are 16" long so you will likely need to cut it to fit, make sure you have a grinder handy.

Is the slip section tapered at one end? If the current masonry adapter won't fit into the thimble then I don't see how adding another layer would help. But I would really love to be wrong right about now cause it's getting kinda cold up here in NH.

Thanks for all the help!
 
My question is why in the world do you want double wall connector pipe for that short of a connection to the thimble? Use single wall and let the heat go into the room, not up the chimney.

The BK stoves have such low flue temps on low burn they recommend to keep flue temps up. Of course trying the single wall first wouldn't hurt.
 
It sounds like your old stove pipe might have been upside down. The tapered end, or male end should go down.

The pipe is in the correct orientation as it all fits together perfectly from the stove adapter all the way to the masonry adapter. It's the back end of the adapter that is causing the problems.
 
Off subject but want to ask so you don't run into issues later. How far off the wall is the back of the stove(T-Stat cover)? Also it "looks"(can be deceiving) like the clearance from the stove door to the front of the hearth may be a little short, do you know what that measurement is?
 
The T'stat cover is almost 7". The up-front measurement is 14", short by 2" according to Blaze King's recommendations. I'll be adding a hearth pad eventually, just wanted to get everything in and fit for now.

Good eye though. Nice work.
 
The pipe is in the correct orientation as it all fits together perfectly from the stove adapter all the way to the masonry adapter. It's the back end of the adapter that is causing the problems.
I was referring to your old pipe set-up.
 
Is the slip section tapered at one end? If the current masonry adapter won't fit into the thimble then I don't see how adding another layer would help. But I would really love to be wrong right about now cause it's getting kinda cold up here in NH.

Thanks for all the help!
The slip would measure about 5 7/8". It's made to slip inside a 6" single wall pipe. Forget the masonry adapter, attach the slip onto the last piece of Double wall pipe and slip it into thimble.
 
After cat engagement the temp in the pipe should be a non-issue. The flue heats up and starts drafting before the cat engagement and from there on out keeps drafting. And if the crud is burned in the cat it ain't available to collect in the connector pipe. And that short a connector ain't gonna be cold sitting right on top of a 1,200 degree cat chamber. I don't care how many hands they stick in that pipe in the video.

Edit to add: In that video there is enough cold room air rushing into that pipe when they open it to allow you to stick any sensitive body part into that thing for a minute or two. Another of my favorite parlor tricks.
 
The T'stat cover is almost 7". The up-front measurement is 14", short by 2" according to Blaze King's recommendations. I'll be adding a hearth pad eventually, just wanted to get everything in and fit for now.

Good eye though. Nice work.

Gotcha!

The front measurement isn't just a BK recommendation, that is code in the US. The good thing is the stove only requires ember protection so it should be an easy fix.
 
The slip would measure about 5 7/8". It's made to slip inside a 6" single wall pipe. Forget the masonry adapter, attach the slip onto the last piece of Double wall pipe and slip it into thimble.

I'll try this first thing tomorrow. Any Idea what the Masonry adapter is for then?
 
Gotcha!

The front measurement isn't just a BK recommendation, that is code in the US. The good thing is the stove only requires ember protection so it should be an easy fix.

Is the 7" dimension alright then? What exactly does ember protection mean in terms of fixing it? Will I not need a hearth pad then? I will say I'd rather look at the brick that's currently there.
 
I'll try this first thing tomorrow. Any Idea what the Masonry adapter is for then?
It's to fit into the thimble, or hook onto their liner. I rarely see a clay liner or thimble that is a standard measurement, they are all a bit different and you have one of the "different" ones.
 
Is the 7" dimension alright then? What exactly does ember protection mean in terms of fixing it? Will I not need a hearth pad then? I will say I'd rather look at the brick that's currently there.

The ember protection is so that you don't have burns in that beautiful floor. Or set it on fire.
 
Is the 7" dimension alright then? What exactly does ember protection mean in terms of fixing it? Will I not need a hearth pad then? I will say I'd rather look at the brick that's currently there.

That means you need a non-combustible surface extending at least 16" in front of the stove. I have 2'+, and get the occasional ember that pops out onto the carpet.
 
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That means you need a non-combustible surface extending at least 16" in front of the stove. I have 2'+, and get the occasional ember that pops out onto the carpet.

So do I really need to extend the hearth out, or would a good hearth rug work?
 
Read the label on hearth rugs. They only have the same burn requirement that carpet has. Found that out the hard way when an ember burned right through one and smoked the carpet under it.
 
The reason you need to keep the flue from getting cold is that your draft with a warm flue is much stronger. It is easy to stall the cat if you have too little draft. Yes, even with a 2000 degree cat, according to the probe meter, my interior flue temps are right at 400 degrees as measured on my condar probe meter. Kinda weird it's so cold when my non-cat stoves would easily run past 1000 degrees.
 
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