Boots to wear when cutting

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Flatbedford said:
smokinjay said:
Flatbedford said:
What size are they?
10.5

If you give up on them and they aren't too stinky...
lol cant stand to wear them more than an hr. if I put them on and thats rare I will take another pair with me and change out pretty quick and if its on an incline about 15 min.
 
av8roc said:
Buming this up as I just picked up a set of these Chippewa Super Loggers as a few others have mentioned and I am very impressed. Heavy but comfortable and and great protection:

http://www.chippewaboots.com/boots/super_logger/25405

Note that the name "Logger" on a boot is a "fashion statement" and has NOTHING to do with the boot's suitability for use w/ a chainsaw... Looking at the description on the linked boots, while they look like decent quality, they are NOT "Chainsaw rated" boots.... They do have steel toes, which gives some protection, but they do NOT have any of the saw jamming Kevlar or Engtex material in them that a true chainsaw rated boot (Such as the ones sold by Labonville, or the Matterhorm UL listed chainsaw boots that I wear) would have...

Unless you are doing it professionally, in which case OSHA regs require a chainsaw boot, and these won't meet the specs, how much protection you want is up to you - I want to keep all my toes, it's harder doing math without them... ;-P

What I've been told is that while steel toes do offer some protection, a lot of saw hits on the foot involve the side or top of the foot where the steel toe isn't... A chainsaw boot has the steel toe, and ALSO has the same sort of kevlar pads in it that you will find in your chaps... I figure it's worth it...

Gooserider
 
Gooserider said:
av8roc said:
Buming this up as I just picked up a set of these Chippewa Super Loggers as a few others have mentioned and I am very impressed. Heavy but comfortable and and great protection:

http://www.chippewaboots.com/boots/super_logger/25405

Note that the name "Logger" on a boot is a "fashion statement" and has NOTHING to do with the boot's suitability for use w/ a chainsaw... Looking at the description on the linked boots, while they look like decent quality, they are NOT "Chainsaw rated" boots.... They do have steel toes, which gives some protection, but they do NOT have any of the saw jamming Kevlar or Engtex material in them that a true chainsaw rated boot (Such as the ones sold by Labonville, or the Matterhorm UL listed chainsaw boots that I wear) would have...

Unless you are doing it professionally, in which case OSHA regs require a chainsaw boot, and these won't meet the specs, how much protection you want is up to you - I want to keep all my toes, it's harder doing math without them... ;-P

What I've been told is that while steel toes do offer some protection, a lot of saw hits on the foot involve the side or top of the foot where the steel toe isn't... A chainsaw boot has the steel toe, and ALSO has the same sort of kevlar pads in it that you will find in your chaps... I figure it's worth it...

Gooserider

my chaps come to the front of my boot and wrap around the ankle there just nothing there to hit but steel and Kevlar I maybe missing somthing but not any part of my feet.
 
Gooserider said:
The Labonvilles are good boots Zap. When I was shopping they were my number two choice, and I seriously considered them... What I ended up with was the Matterhorn 12277: Mens 10” Waterproof UL® Steel Toe Chainsaw Boot. Expensive, but IMHO worth it - more kevlar padding, gore-tex lining, a little higher for more ankle / shin protection, etc... I figured it gave me just that much more protection than the Labonvilles...

I haven't (and don't want to) test the saw protection, but otherwise I've been very happy with them... They wear well, keep my feet dry, and are generally the most comfortable pair of boots I've ever owned. I now wear them by choice any time I'm doing "toe hazard" work, not just when using a saw...

Gooserider

At $380 (before shipping), that's too pricy for me.
 
smokinjay said:
Gooserider said:
av8roc said:
Buming this up as I just picked up a set of these Chippewa Super Loggers as a few others have mentioned and I am very impressed. Heavy but comfortable and and great protection:

http://www.chippewaboots.com/boots/super_logger/25405

Note that the name "Logger" on a boot is a "fashion statement" and has NOTHING to do with the boot's suitability for use w/ a chainsaw... Looking at the description on the linked boots, while they look like decent quality, they are NOT "Chainsaw rated" boots.... They do have steel toes, which gives some protection, but they do NOT have any of the saw jamming Kevlar or Engtex material in them that a true chainsaw rated boot (Such as the ones sold by Labonville, or the Matterhorm UL listed chainsaw boots that I wear) would have...

Unless you are doing it professionally, in which case OSHA regs require a chainsaw boot, and these won't meet the specs, how much protection you want is up to you - I want to keep all my toes, it's harder doing math without them... ;-P

What I've been told is that while steel toes do offer some protection, a lot of saw hits on the foot involve the side or top of the foot where the steel toe isn't... A chainsaw boot has the steel toe, and ALSO has the same sort of kevlar pads in it that you will find in your chaps... I figure it's worth it...

Gooserider

my chaps come to the front of my boot and wrap around the ankle there just nothing there to hit but steel and Kevlar I maybe missing somthing but not any part of my feet.

Different people presumably have clothes that fall differently, but while my Stihl chaps cover my ankles pretty well, the tops and sides of my feet are still exposed... In addition the lower straps on the chaps that hold the legs closed are about even with the tops of my boots - I'm not about to test the theory, but it seems to me that a hit with the tip of the bar could pull the bottom edge of the chaps up leaving the foot and ankle exposed...

I agree they are expensive boots... I find it ironic that I probably have as much or more invested in my PPE than I do in my Dolmar, largely due to the boots, but as I said, I think it's worth it... I also found that you can knock a good bit off that $380 MSRP if you do some serious Google shopping. I forget just what I paid, but it was in the $250 area (w/ free shipping) - it was around $75-100 more than the Labonvilles, which I seriously considered, and probably would have gotten, but when I showed both boots to the GF, she felt the extra features of the Matterhorns (taller, more layers of Kevlar, Gore-tex, etc.) were worth the greater cost...

Gooserider
 
Gooserider said:
smokinjay said:
Gooserider said:
av8roc said:
Buming this up as I just picked up a set of these Chippewa Super Loggers as a few others have mentioned and I am very impressed. Heavy but comfortable and and great protection:

http://www.chippewaboots.com/boots/super_logger/25405

Note that the name "Logger" on a boot is a "fashion statement" and has NOTHING to do with the boot's suitability for use w/ a chainsaw... Looking at the description on the linked boots, while they look like decent quality, they are NOT "Chainsaw rated" boots.... They do have steel toes, which gives some protection, but they do NOT have any of the saw jamming Kevlar or Engtex material in them that a true chainsaw rated boot (Such as the ones sold by Labonville, or the Matterhorm UL listed chainsaw boots that I wear) would have...

Unless you are doing it professionally, in which case OSHA regs require a chainsaw boot, and these won't meet the specs, how much protection you want is up to you - I want to keep all my toes, it's harder doing math without them... ;-P

What I've been told is that while steel toes do offer some protection, a lot of saw hits on the foot involve the side or top of the foot where the steel toe isn't... A chainsaw boot has the steel toe, and ALSO has the same sort of kevlar pads in it that you will find in your chaps... I figure it's worth it...

Gooserider

my chaps come to the front of my boot and wrap around the ankle there just nothing there to hit but steel and Kevlar I maybe missing somthing but not any part of my feet.

Different people presumably have clothes that fall differently, but while my Stihl chaps cover my ankles pretty well, the tops and sides of my feet are still exposed... In addition the lower straps on the chaps that hold the legs closed are about even with the tops of my boots - I'm not about to test the theory, but it seems to me that a hit with the tip of the bar could pull the bottom edge of the chaps up leaving the foot and ankle exposed...

I agree they are expensive boots... I find it ironic that I probably have as much or more invested in my PPE than I do in my Dolmar, largely due to the boots, but as I said, I think it's worth it... I also found that you can knock a good bit off that $380 MSRP if you do some serious Google shopping. I forget just what I paid, but it was in the $250 area (w/ free shipping) - it was around $75-100 more than the Labonvilles, which I seriously considered, and probably would have gotten, but when I showed both boots to the GF, she felt the extra features of the Matterhorns (taller, more layers of Kevlar, Gore-tex, etc.) were worth the greater cost...

Gooserider

I can only think of one way to hit the top of your boot like that. Only if your running a 28 in. bar or bigger 90 degrees from your body using the tip at ground level. I am just not that strong to pull it off even if its a good cut, but who knows what can happen at any given time..
 
Adios Pantalones said:
At the end of a hard day- they feel friggin heavy.

That might just be your feet feeling heavy. :)
 
40 comes in July for me.
 
IMO, one does not need special boots for chainsawing. I've never met, nor even heard of, anyone who has ever had a saw/foot collision resulting in an injury.
 
I agree Bigg_Redd. When I used to work in the woods I did wear boots that were loggers boots but they were much different then. They had no protection, so to speak, but that is not what I look for. I want something that has a good tread on the bottom and the higher heal means you can walk better on the uneven surfaces...such as walking across logs.

Today I look at the same type of bottom minus the high heal. I simply want an excellent tread; something that grips so I don't slip. I also require them to be insulated. I do not know if they are still made but at present I wear a pair of Red Wing high top boots that have an excellent tread and also 1600 grams of insulation. They work as well for me as my old logger's boot.

As for that other loggers boot mentioned by others, they are the loggers boot because they have the thread (I think they do anyway) and the higher heel.

I also have to admit that other than a steel toe, this is the first time I've ever heard of a safety boot for running a chainsaw. Probably the larger companies require them but I've not seen them nor am I interested.
 
Flatbedford said:
Let us know how they work out for you. They certainly offer some serious protection.

FBF the boots are great, it was like I had the old pair (plain steel toes) on.


Zap
 
As for "special"- looking at the gouges in my current boots- I need steel toes. It's more about being careless splitting than with a saw for me. I have downright rubbery ankles and a history of ankle injury- so some support wouldn't kill me either.

When I was a kid my dad cut through a leather shoe and took a couple layers of skin off his foot. "That close" :)
 
Flatbedford said:
Let us know how they work out for you. They certainly offer some serious protection.

FBF the boots are great and with that extra protection it's nice. I have to clear some snow by the road so I can get back in to cut, this weekend will be spent watching some Div. 1 College Hockey and Cross Country Skiing.


Zap
 
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