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Building the MS460: Epilogue - The 2nd Saw

Post in 'The Gear' started by MasterMech, Mar 23, 2013.

  1. MasterMech

    MasterMech Guest

    There's an 038 Super that just came in that's just itchin to be fed some logs too.... (but that one isn't mine)

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  2. Jags

    Jags Moderate Moderator Staff Member

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    I am thinking that those adjustment screw springs are a must.

    Cool beans. You could always send the saw to me. I have plenty of logs to cut up.:p
  3. Freeheat

    Freeheat Minister of Fire

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    Hey mm with all those issues I ill give you 100 for the saw ........ Lol
  4. Jags

    Jags Moderate Moderator Staff Member

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    Or better yet, grab the saw and come on out. I gotz food and beverage.
    smokinj and MasterMech like this.
  5. MasterMech

    MasterMech Guest

    "Hun, I gotta go test these 3 saws, see ya next week!" ;lol
    smokinj and Jags like this.
  6. nate379

    nate379 Guest

    Can you start the saw without the decompression button?

    There's no way I could on my 460. I tried it once and I had to pull on it so hard that I snapped the starter rope.

    smokinj likes this.
  7. DexterDay

    DexterDay Guest

    I can start mine without it.. I bought mine new.

    I dont do it on purpose. But I have, just to see how bad it was
  8. MasterMech

    MasterMech Guest

    Both of these will pull over quite decently without the decomp button. I don't even bother with it for a warm/hot re-start.

    The elasto-start starter handles make a big difference. Enough so that I have them on everything except my MS230, which is an EZ2Start model anyways.
  9. MasterMech

    MasterMech Guest

    This carb isn't designed for those springs, so I'm going to get new limiter caps for it. I wonder if blue loctite would keep it running for now?
  10. nate379

    nate379 Guest

    I had that Elasto deal on my saw and it tore apart a few weeks before the rope broke. The rope was in good shape too. I much prefer it without, doesn't feel like I'm wasting half my pull by stretching it out.

    Dunno if the previous owner did some work on my saw, pretty sure it's stock but it sits just under 200psi compression. My brand new 290 was super easy to crank over in comparison. Even with the decomp button pushed it's tougher.


  11. MasterMech

    MasterMech Guest

    That's a ton more than stock. A stock 460 in tip top shape should pull 155-160psi. If there has been work done to yours, it's a good bet that the ignition timing may have been played with as well and that could make it rather unforgiving to start.
  12. Jags

    Jags Moderate Moderator Staff Member

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    I also thought of the blue stuff. Only question - if you go back to "adjust" will it leave any residue that could cause problems. Maybe if you could put it high enough on the treads - this wouldn't be an issue.
  13. smokinj

    smokinj Minister of Fire

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    Seems a lot of people have done that once. ;)
  14. MasterMech

    MasterMech Guest

    The more I play with this thing, the more I think something is actually wrong. Once it heats up it really doesn't want to idle properly. Trying to get the engine to stay running under 3000 rpm is real tough. Thing is, I can't get it tore down fast enough to do a leak test with it "hot". I think I'm going to toss the Chinese crank seals and see what happens. The Stihl service manual for it says either there is an air leak (crank seals, case gasket, impulse line, etc...), or the muffler is leaking. The crankcase pressure/vac test says the case is airtight so maybe I should seal up that muffler! ;lol
  15. salecker

    salecker Feeling the Heat

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    Hi Master
    try preasuring it up in a bucket of water,fish tank works nice you can see everything.
    Thomas
  16. MasterMech

    MasterMech Guest

    There is NO pressure loss from a crankcase pressure test. (even after 2-3 minutes. Also holds vacuum just as well.) I doubt dunking it will tell me anything I don't already know. The issue seems to rear it's head when the saw is hot and as I stated before, there's just too much time involved in prepping the saw for a pressure test to get a reading while it's hot. Going to be a little bit of trial and error from here I think.
  17. Freeheat

    Freeheat Minister of Fire

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    You know alot more than me but wont a vaccum leak make it run lean? If its only at temp I would think Ignition or someting along that line

    JIM
  18. Since it's an aftermarket kit have you check the p&c for scoring?
  19. MasterMech

    MasterMech Guest

    Ignition would most likely fail under load or at high speed, the saw runs WOT no problem. It's getting it to idle that's the issue. That says air leak or carburetor. I could swap the carbs with the other saw but I'm 99% sure this carb is good.
  20. MasterMech

    MasterMech Guest

    Still looks good through the muffler and spark plug hole. Pulls awesome (160+ psi) compression.
  21. lukem

    lukem Minister of Fire

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    Do the RPM's drop quickly coming out of WOT?
  22. Jags

    Jags Moderate Moderator Staff Member

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    Ding, ding, ding.
  23. MasterMech

    MasterMech Guest

    I would say it's somewhat "normal" What happens it it will settle in to an idle, break up and die. Requires the throttle cracked to restart. When I get more time, I'm going to swap carbs just to put that one to bed. I'm taking the "good" saw out to play tomorrow so I don't want to tear it apart just yet. ==c
  24. lukem

    lukem Minister of Fire

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    Sounds more "carby" than "air-leaky" to me. Never dealt with it on a saw, but have on a couple 2-stroke dirtbikes. Both had a leak at the jug gasket and would run and idle fine...but the RPMs would shoot to the moon and stay very high after WOT. If it is dropping pretty normal but won't idle that doesn't scream air leak to me...but I'm not an expert and have been wrong before.
  25. MasterMech

    MasterMech Guest

    The part that gets me is that it leak tests perfectly. So if the carb swap reveals nothing, then I'm going to have to resort to replacing things one at a time I think. :(

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