Can't get my pellets to feed :-(

This is the multimeter I have can you guys tell me how to set it up to test the output for 12 V DC as suggested by Smokey?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GB-INSTRUMENTS-GMT-312-ELECTRIC-MULTI-TEST-METER-/160883862477

It has DCV on the right upper quadrant of the selector knob so it should be able to. Just don't use the millivolt setting on the upper left. To test for 12v DC I would use the 50 DCV and read the approriate line on the display for around 12.

(Please note I am not an electrician and the last time I used a Multi-meter on a dc setting was a bit over a decade ago. Might want to wait for confirmation.)

Yes, the 50 DCV setting ( two clicks clockwise from the off-position ) is the one, but Mountainsean, I'm sure you mean: "Just don't use the milliamp ( mA ) setting on the upper left".
The DC mA setting should absolutely be avoided, since it most likely will fry your controlboard, or at least blow a fuse in the meter. Now you are warned.
If the control board is ok, the needle should move approximately to where i have drawn a black line on the scale. Maybe a little higher, since the little black box actually has an output voltage of 14 Volts DC.

Ok jumped the vacuum sensor. Hooked up the multimeter as described above to wires (disconnected from the auger motor) turned on the stove.

The needle moves to where u pointed out on the dial. Then goes to 0, then back to the spot on the dial above and just repeats. Like pulses. Every 10 seconds.

Is that how the motor works a pulse at a time?

Yeah. Shouldn't be constant power. Depending on heat level selected, will depend on how frequently it powers up.

Hmmm ok any idea how to get the auger motor off? Gonna check the manual. But don't see how it comes off by looking at it.

Should have to loosen a set-screw that is tightened on the shaft. It pretty much just dangles there on the Baby. It hits a bolt, thats the only thing keeping the auger from free spinning.

Loosen set screw at collar and the auger should slide back/out.

So that's good then right my control board is ok?

Not having much luck figuring out how to get the motor off.

Ok I will try that.

Ok thoroughly confused now. I see no lock collar. Even watched this video: http://m.youtube.com/#/watch?v=YHuacwmGrDk&desktop_uri=/watch?v=YHuacwmGrDk

There is no collar with a nut or hole for an allen to reach a lock nut on either side between where the shaft comes out of the back of the hopper and into the gear housing or on the backside of the housing. I tried to take a picture. But mine does not look like the one in the video?

Inside the stove? Maybe??

PM member Czech, Jrsdws, or Don2222. They should be able to walk you step by step through the removal process.

Cleaned out the pellets and this is what is there, there is a bolt going into the shaft you can't quite see it in the picture it's at about the 9 o clock if where the shaft goes into the back of the hopper is the clock face.

If that stove has a floating auger motor it will come off when you disconnect it from the auger.

but where do I disconnect it from?

It should be that bolt going into the auger and against the auger motor's shaft a good number of DC auger motors have a slotted shaft and a bolt the goes from one side through the auger and into the other side.

Since you have a multimeter and now know how to read the auger motor voltage could you tell us what it does when there is no jumper on the vacuum switch?

We know that the auger motor is very likely fried what we don't know is if the rest of the system works without jumpers installed. If we know that everything works then the problem has to be either the auger motor, or the auger assembly.

Can you turn the auger motor and it in turn auger?

I can only turn it as far as the stop bolt allows it to go. Can I take out the stop bolt to be able to turn the motor more so I could get at that bolt easier, it's kinda at an awkward angle?

I will do the multimeter thing without the jumper on vacuum sensor.

Thanks and if you can get the stop blot out without damaging anything so you can put it back ;-) ..

Without the vacuum jumped no action on the multimeter. Without the jumper do I need to start a fire for the vacuum sensor to work?

No as long as the stove doors are closed and the combustion blower starts, the vacuum switch should close and you should see those timed pulses.

Remove the stop bolt so you can get it.... Its gonna be a small set screw.

Even with the stop bolt removed I can only turn the motor so far, still a PITA to get at the bolt, it's like an 11mm bolt or the sae equivalent not a small set screw.

I did the dollar bill test on the door and ash clean out door, they are airtight I am pretty sure. The pellet hopper door isn't and wasn't before it only had two pieces of the flat stuff as like a cushion. Without like a latch on the ash door I don't see how you could get the pellet door airtight?

Finally got it out here's the pics hopefully you can see the numbers on it ok?

oops

might help not upside down

Here is the closest I've found so far https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=5-1741&catname=electric