castile auger motor won't shut off (clear control box)

New member,
Excellent site first off,
Thank all of you who respond to all the questions posted on you site.
I have a purchased a used Quara-fire Castile pellet stove 2005 with a clear control box.
It worked fine for two weeks, and then stopped feeding pellets. I got on this site and found some posts with same issues. I found the old style vacuum switch was bad. Block with wires very loose where it attaches to the vacuum box. I removed it and tested the switch with my ohms meter worked fine put back in and all worked fine for two days, then stopped again. I ordered the switch with the recommended upgrade from Grainger #4xb70, problem is now when I was testing the vac switch it grounded out and a little spark.
Removed the clear control box (www.pantrol.com, P/N 010606 rev R)
On the terminal #10 I followed it to F-2 on the control board and found a bad PICO fuse. (Green LF250V) I replaced the fuse and thought for an ole country boy I'm pretty smart. (Wrong)
When I plugged it back in I found the auger motor fired up but would not cycle on and off. Always on
Possible Trics, relay???? Some have said this is what it maybe.
What part cycles the auger motor??Trials, relay??
Parts I was going to ordered??? From mouser
•1 solid state relay P/N # AQH2223 Panasonic
•2 trials P/N # Q4008l4
•2 Triacs & scr output optocouplers P/N # MOC3022
•PICOFUSE 1.5 AMP
•relay P/N # T7CS5D-12?? MOUSER SAID OBSOLETE replacement????
Not sure if this is what I need but they are only a few bucks to replace instead of $270 for a new control box.
Please help an ole Country Boy

Not an expert on Quads, but I do know some people have issues after removing the control box and putting it back in......try re-seating the control box again (w/ the stove UNPLUGGED!).

Next time you test any switches, use ohms setting to check for continuity and have the stove UNPLUGGED.

BTW, welcome to the site. I suggest putting your location in your name heading, and also your stove make ,model, & year made in your signature line.....makes it easier for us to help in the future.

Sorry for the miss spelling
When I plugged it back in I found the auger motor fired up but would not cycle on and off.
Auger motor Always on
What part cycles the auger motor?? Triacs, relay??
Parts I was going to ordered??? From mouser
•1 solid state relay P/N # AQH2223 Panasonic
•2 Triacs P/N # Q4008l4
•2 Triacs & scr output optocouplers P/N # MOC3022
•PICOFUSE 1.5 AMP
•relay P/N # T7CS5D-12?? MOUSER SAID OBSOLETE replacement????

I just placed order with Mouser will update when i get the parts replaced.
The tech at mouser told me the Triacs are like a timer??
Thanks again for any replies.

Got to take the family ice skating in Yosemite.

change the moc3022 and the aqh2223 those control the auger motor.
check the aqh2223 when its pluged in it will get to hot to touch in about 10 seconds if its bad. the opto isolater will usualy get taken out when the relay goes bad.
i found this picure on here somplace thatt shows the parts for the relay and fuse. is this the same box? im working on one of these now with the same problem.

I tried to feel if it was getting hot fingers to big. shut off the power and removed the control board and felt to see if AQH2223 was hot, it was not.
Same control board.
ups just showed up with parts ordered, will try to put in new parts before work.
I will change the moc3022 $0.44 and the aqh2223 $2.03, pico fuse 1.5a $0.59 First and the test.
Pictures of parts recieved from Mouser

A triac is not a timer, it controls the flow of AC current. Think of it as an adjustable valve for water. It is triggered at different points in the sine wave for different outputs, hence timing is important in that respect. But a triac is not considered a timer. It passes more or less current depending on when it is triggered, thus controlling whatever is hooked up to it. Thus ends today's lesson

Just replaced items above lets see what happens.
Picture of items removed

I can't see the traces, but from this side of the board, you did a good job pulling the old parts!

put in the control all was working fine for about 12 1/2 min. then stopped dropping pellets.
loss of vacuum.
flame hiegth about 6 inches, tried to lower adjusting rod, when empty, set at lowest level.?? will not adjust any lower.

• start up pellets start to drop 15 sec. or so, flame in 90 sec.
• 3 1/2 min ignitor off
• 4 1/2 min green light on control board, pellets started to drop
• 9 min red control board (C.B.) light
• 12 1/2 min. no more pellets flame started to die down. (loss of vacuum)

tested seal aroun door with $ bill. not tight along bottom and latch side.

off to work.

Heat seeker Thanks for the lesson!
Darryl123 thanks for the info.
Now if I can figure out why I'm losing vacuum after 12 1/2 minutes.

wow, this one is worth printing out and saving! Might even put them on the shelf Great job Is that 12 1/2 minutes a repeatable time? Very strange that you would suddenly lose vacuum. Are you sure it's vacuum that is shutting you down? How are you checking it? While running, the only way to check would be to hook a voltmeter CAREFULLY to the downstream side of the vacuum switch and to chassis ground. If it goes to zero, switch is opening up.

You don't mention the convection blower. Is it coming on? If not, perhaps the stove is shutting off on high temp.

I ckecked the vacuum switch with a v.m. and no power out of the vac switch while running.
waited about 10 min reset the system. went for about 10-15 minutes and shut down again.
convection blower came after second shut down.
I removed the vac hose from switch can not feel any vacuum, hooked it back up.
I then removed the hose from the auger, barely sucked on the hose and the vacuum switch sent 120v to auger motor, system started dropping pellets.
Hooked all back up and no power out of vac switch.
When the system cools and reset button pushed the system will start back up.

Vacuum hose or hose barb it's attached to on the stove are plugged.

Sounds like you have an airflow problem.

Your switch appears to be working properly.

You will not feel the vacuum at the hose, it's very very slight.

Try taking the hose off the switch and blowing back towards the stove. That should clear any blockage in the hose. Make sure the barb at the stove end is clear - run a toothpick or Allen wrench through, to make sure.

The BIG QUESTION - when did you last do a thorough cleaning of the stove and ALL its passages? Also, make very sure all the venting is clean.

Make sure your combustion blower is running at the proper speed; the bearings are good, etc.

From the OP's first post:

"I have a purchased a used Quara-fire Castile pellet stove".

You have your answer

I put this used stove in two weeks ago. while i had the stove out i vacuumed out the whole system, I used 120 psi from my compressor to blow out all the motors, convection blower, fire pot passages. i used a brass 32. cal brass brush on fire pot. removed baffle, bricks if i'm missing something let me know.
I cleaned the ststem again today. removed baffle / bricks followed manual from quadra fire.
convection blower is coming on.
I can blow through vac hose towards the stove no blockage, I used a can of compressed air and could see the ash moving out the pellet chute.
I called my wife and she turned on the system hit the reset stove ran 10-15 minutes and shut down the convection motor came on.
I installed new exhaust vent.

• PelletVent Pro Horizontal Kit
• 1- 18" straight pipe

I did recently change brands of pellets to premium blazer. maybe i will try old pellets???

Some may not be quite as fortunate as you imacman to be able to go buy new!

Can't hurt to try, but I still think you have an airflow problem. The vacuum switch is not being satisfied.
It might also be - the switch is incorrect, or mal-adjusted (which would qualify it for Pellet Pig status).

I think he's referring to the fact that many, if not most, of used stoves are sold because they don't work anymore, usually due to lack of cleaning.

Well, since you think you know me that well, I am now not going to give you the solution to your problem.

Oh yeah, BTW.......I have NEVER bought a NEW stovel.

I will try a new vac hose.
when i jump the vac switch the system will continously drop pellets.
possibly mal-adjusted switch.

I must have taken that the wrong way imacman. my apologies.
I'm just trying to fix this used stove

A Castile has no hidden ash passage. Its damn near open to the combustion blower. You can reach it with.your fingers. No.significant place to build up ash. Unless the venting was, but a used stove, in a New location, normally means new venting?

If he says the auger wont stop? I would believe him? Especially with all the electrical data he posted?

Its a used stove. But a Used Castile or Santa Fe has No place to hide ash if it was moved? Thats my take and I have worked on both models (Castile and Santa Fe are the same stove with different shell, basically)...

So there's no ash trap or heat exchanger area?