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castile auger motor won't shut off (clear control box)

Post in 'The Pellet Mill - Pellet and Multifuel Stoves' started by greatwhitebowhunter, Jan 21, 2013.

  1. greatwhitebowhunter

    greatwhitebowhunter New Member

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    this is the new vac switch i installed after reading about them on this site.
    Grainger item #4XB70

    Air Sensing Switch, General Purpose, SPDT, Pressure Setting Range 0.12-5.0 In WC, Integral Barbed Sample Line Connector, Differential 0.08 WC, Operating Temp Range -40 To 180 F, Electrical Rating 300 VA Pilot Duty, UL Listed, CSA Certified
    I adjusted the switch all the way counter clockwise to the lowest setting. according to the directions.
    Could the door seal be bad??

    Attached Files:

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  2. imacman

    imacman Guest

    Accepted.

    We are ALL trying to help you fix it. That's what we do here, besides have some laughs along the way.
  3. greatwhitebowhunter

    greatwhitebowhunter New Member

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    Heat exchange area has two cleaning rods for soot build up. vacuumed this area too.
    ash pan not sure about ash trap??
  4. DexterDay

    DexterDay Guest

    Heat exchanger.. Yes. Its a Quad. It has an awesome exchanger.

    Ash trap area. No.

    Its a baffle plate and a small hole to the comb blower.

    An auger that doesn't quit. Sounds like a control problem. Especially if there was Sparks.
  5. imacman

    imacman Guest

    Do you mean non-stop, or just as it should normally?
  6. greatwhitebowhunter

    greatwhitebowhunter New Member

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    the auger works as it is suposed to now that i replaced the items on the control board.
    It will only run non stop if you bypass the vac switch
  7. imacman

    imacman Guest

    Then there is still something wrong at the control board. All the vacuum switch does is make continuity.
  8. greatwhitebowhunter

    greatwhitebowhunter New Member

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    I'm not sure a have some other parts triacs, relays, diodes i can try and replace them. does anyone have a schematic of the control board.??
    The BIG QUESTION - how do I do a thorough cleaning of the stove and ALL its passages? Also, make very sure all the venting is clean.
    How do i test the combustion blower ohm meter?? what is proper speed.
    Make sure your combustion blower is running at the proper speed; the bearings are good, etc.
  9. imacman

    imacman Guest

    Well, if you say you tore the stove apart and cleaned everything you could get to, then the only other thing to try is the leaf blower trick. Does your venting allow for that?
  10. greatwhitebowhunter

    greatwhitebowhunter New Member

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    yes i can do that with no problem, new stove pipe with only 400 lbs of pellets burned. I will try it can not hurt.
    I'm going to try the old pellets carlisle or something like that. I did not have a shut down issue with them.
    this all started when i changed to Blazer pellets.
    Why change something if it works. I forgot my Grand father told me that before.
  11. darryl123

    darryl123 New Member

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    the triac closest to the fuse is for auger control also change that and see it it fixes the problem. does the stove time out after 12 minutes? check that the snap disks are closing on temp rise
  12. greatwhitebowhunter

    greatwhitebowhunter New Member

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    from post #5 picture, are you talking about the 4 prong triacs below the glass fuse??
    Snap Disc (S.D.) #1 to convection blower closing on temp rise.
    S.D. #2 closes only when Vac switch closes
    Time out after 12min?? It shuts down on its own after about 12 min.

    Tomorrow i will put on new vacuum hose.
    remove all pellets clean system try to use bower in exhaust.
    Try to reduce feed rate by adjusting control rod, located in hopper. (flame now about 6", book says should be 4" above fire pot.)

    Attached Files:

  13. tjnamtiw

    tjnamtiw Minister of Fire

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    Well, it certainly is apparent that you know what you are doing electrically and mechanically. You should have a VERY CLEAN stove by now with all the cleaning you've done plus the new venting. That shouldn't be the issue. The fact that the auger keeps going when the vacuum switch is bypassed just as clearly points to a control issue since it does nothing but tell the control board that the combustion blower is creating sufficient negative pressure in the burn area. S.D. #2 STAYS closed unless there is an over fire condition. It DOES NOT close when the vacuum switch closes.
    Sounds like you cleaned out the 8 little holes with the 32 caliber brush so that's good. Is the trap door on the bottom fairly tight against the bottom of the burn pot?

    Replace that triac and then we'll see what's next.
  14. heat seeker

    heat seeker Minister of Fire

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    If you used a manometer to test the vacuum, that would show whether or not the airflow or lack thereof is the problem. There's a thread here somewhere where it shows how to make a good homemade one. It is possible that the switch is not calibrated properly, or is just not sensitive enough for your application.

    Here is a vid on how to make one. You can use whatever diameter tubing works for you, it doesn't matter. He's using his for gas, so uses 5/16" ID. The principles are the same.
  15. greatwhitebowhunter

    greatwhitebowhunter New Member

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    Still not sure which triacs to replace now. are you talking about the triacs I have a red box around / red arrow?
    I have already replaced the items with yellow arrows.

    Attached Files:

  16. greatwhitebowhunter

    greatwhitebowhunter New Member

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    heat seeker i do not see a link to the video. i don't have a monometer i checked on the price about 100 bucks. (the directions on the switch said " To properly calibrate, a digital manometer should be used for proper calibration.)
    I will call Grainer techs to see how to calibrate vacuum switch to lowest possible setting.
    Right now the the vac hose is hooked to the low pressure side, and the adjusting screw is turned all the counter clock wise to lowest setting acording to directions. This is also how someone else said to set this vac switch on a previous post.
    I have alot to try in the morning, before I go to work.:cool: Thanks for Everyones help.
  17. heat seeker

    heat seeker Minister of Fire

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    Sorry, the link didn't work. YouTube has instructions on how to build one, but there's a better one somewhere on this forum. He made it more sensitive by tilting the board the tubing is mounted on. Cheap to build and very effective.

    You don't need a digital unit, there are mechanical ones on EBay for around $40 or so.

    Even the digital ones are calibrated by the u-tube manometers.
  18. tjnamtiw

    tjnamtiw Minister of Fire

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    Since the auger motor is single speed and doesn't need a triac to regulate speed, perhaps that Potter Brumfield relay is the culprit. You could have welded the normally open contacts closed. Why not remove it and check them out?
  19. heat seeker

    heat seeker Minister of Fire

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    Quite possible, but I would guess it's for the ignitor.
  20. tjnamtiw

    tjnamtiw Minister of Fire

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    That relay is rated for 10 amps so it's possible but the clicking you hear each time the auger turns on indicates that there's a mechanical relay controlling it. Are there any other relays on the circuit board?
  21. greatwhitebowhunter

    greatwhitebowhunter New Member

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    Well i took everyones advise and have done the following,
    1. Put on new vacuum hose.
    2. removed all the pellets / changed wood pellets to my old brand
    3. cleaned the system again, used a blower in exhaust.
    4. Tried to reduce feed rate by adjusting control rod, located in hopper. But the adjusting rod was set at the lowest setting, So i removed it welded a metal extention onto the rod, so i could reduce feed rate. (see pic)
    5. Flame now about 4" above fire pot.
    Started the stove and it ran for about 30 minutes the went into shut down mode. ​

    Attached Files:

  22. tjnamtiw

    tjnamtiw Minister of Fire

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    If your auger is continuously turning, you have to fix that problem! By closing off the feed even more with your gate extension, you are creating a great place for pellet bridging to occur. With a very small opening, a few slightly longer pellets will get caught across the opening and stop your feed altogether even though the auger keeps running. Take that extension back off. You don't need it.
  23. greatwhitebowhunter

    greatwhitebowhunter New Member

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    I started to trouble shoot in again after shut down mode, I have intermitent power to control switch.
    I was getting power (120v) to the vac switch in 7 second intervals but no power out of vac switch. no power at all after a few minutes to vac switch. used my ohms meter across vac switch showed the switch open. or 0.0000

    When i would move or put pressure on top of the control box, on the aluminum sticking outof it, sometimes it would start to drop pellets

    I removed the control board to replace the extra parts i purchased from mouser. (triacs P/N# 576-Q4008L4) Q4 & Q5 on control board. I noticed this part had a aliuminum bracket on it and would move easily while plastic control board was off.
    I noticed this time a possible issue with q400L4 triacs posible broken pin. Whiich would cause the intermittent issues. I think once the triacs heated up it would expand the prong and the system would go into shut down mode
    .
    when i get home i will try it again.

    Minister of fire,
    The auger does not turn continuously any more we fixed all that back on post #10 After replacing a few items on the control board.
    Pellets drop for about 2 1/2 seconds on high then off for about 7 seconds
    Now it is shut down after 15 minutes or so.
    Ran for about 30 minutes today once before shut down
    Sorry for the confusion and the spelling errors

    Attached Files:

  24. heat seeker

    heat seeker Minister of Fire

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    Zero Ω indicates that the switch is closed.
  25. Jack Morrissey

    Jack Morrissey Feeling the Heat

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    With all you have tried already, if you haven't unplugged the stove recently, try that and see if it resets? Good luck.

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