Drolet Deco Nano hearth question

[Wood Rat]

Hello All! New member. I'm about to order and install a Drolet Deco Nano stove. The cabin has a bare subfloor, can I use a durock 1/2" cement backer board under my 3.75" of concrete for a 4 1/4" total hearth thickness? I could increase the backer thickness by using a thicker backer board or doubling the 1/2" sheet. Or do I have to increase my concrete thickness to 4" alone not counting the backer? Minnesota code is 4" of hearth thickness minimum. Does the backer count as increased thickness or not for insurance purposes? Ive read several other related threads here, but each state has different codes. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[begreen]

Check the reading of the Minnesota code. That could be for an unlisted stove. In this case the manufacturer's tested spec is the final word.

You could put this stove on just the cement board and it would be ok. It only needs ember protection. There is no R factor involved.

What is the hearth plan? Would the 3.75" be poured on site? Would you prefer a lot thinner? If so, a sheet of metal will suffice.

This stove is designed to prevent the floor from overheating. However, it must be placed on a non-flammable surface to protect the floor from hot embers that may fall during loading.
The floor protection must be a continuous, non combustible material, such as steel with a minimum thickness of 0.015" (0.38 mm) or ceramic tiles sealed together with grout. Cement board, brick, or any other approved or listed material suited for floor protection. No R factor required.
Any type of tile will require a continuous non combustible sheet beneath to prevent the possibility of embers falling through to the combustible floor if cracks or separation should occur in the finished surface. Check local codes for approved alternatives.

 

[Wood Rat]

Check the reading of the Minnesota code. That could be for an unlisted stove. In this case the manufacturer's tested spec is the final word.

You could put this stove on just the cement board and it would be ok. It only needs ember protection. There is no R factor involved.

What is the hearth plan? Would the 3.75" be poured on site? Would you prefer a lot thinner? If so, a sheet of metal will suffice.

This stove is designed to prevent the floor from overheating. However, it must be placed on a non-flammable surface to protect the floor from hot embers that may fall during loading.
The floor protection must be a continuous, non combustible material, such as steel with a minimum thickness of 0.015" (0.38 mm) or ceramic tiles sealed together with grout. Cement board, brick, or any other approved or listed material suited for floor protection. No R factor required.
Any type of tile will require a continuous non combustible sheet beneath to prevent the possibility of embers falling through to the combustible floor if cracks or separation should occur in the finished surface. Check local codes for approved alternatives.

Yes the 3 3/4" would be poured on site for a slightly raised hearth that I can boarder with orange red brick. Will definitely double check the hearth requirements and any local codes. I also plan on a stainless steel heat shield on the wall behind the stove just for looks.

 

[begreen]

Maybe just make the hearth out of mortared brick on the cement board for simpler construction?

 

[Wood Rat]

That's another option. I'm just trying to get it right the first time and have it look good.

 

[Wood Rat]

The other question I have is does the heat shield behind the Deco Nano have to be 1 solid piece of (stainless steel in this case) or can I use a few pieces to make the shield? Or do I have to cut patch pieces to bolt everything together into 1 continuous piece? I have 5 pieces of stainless 30 1/2"x 25" that I'll use.

 

[all night moe]

The other question I have is does the heat shield behind the Deco Nano have to be 1 solid piece of (stainless steel in this case) or can I use a few pieces to make the shield? Or do I have to cut patch pieces to bolt everything together into 1 continuous piece? I have 5 pieces of stainless 30 1/2"x 25" that I'll use.

View attachment 323776

I would imagine you could just bolt them together, or even tack welded together. 1/2'' thick..... wow that's some expensive serious overkill.
BTW, if for some reason you can't get the clearances to combustionables met, a one inch air space behind the SS will suffice.

 

[Wood Rat]

I would imagine you could just bolt them together, or even tack welded together. 1/2'' thick..... wow that's some expensive serious overkill.
BTW, if for some reason you can't get the clearances to combustionables met, a one inch air space behind the SS will suffice.

I have 5 sheets that are 1/16th inch thick (about a penny thick) 30 1/2" x 25". Easy to work with and hang.

 

[begreen]

Will the stove be connected with double-wall stove pipe? In that case, the Deco Nano does not need any shielding behind it as long as clearances are met. The shielding is for peace of mind.

 

[Wood Rat]

Will the stove be connected with double-wall stove pipe? In that case, the Deco Nano does not need any shielding behind it as long as clearances are met. The shielding is for peace of mind.

Yes I'll use the Selkirk 6" Thru the wall kit. I believe it's all double wall and approved.

 

[all night moe]

I believe begreen is referencing double wall non-insulated black pipe. From the stove to your Selkirk insulated kit.

 

[Wood Rat]

I believe begreen is referencing double wall non-insulated black pipe. From the stove to your Selkirk insulated kit.

Yes I plan on double wall black 6 inch pipe with one 90° bend to the wall thimble.

 

[all night moe]

Yes I plan on double wall black 6 inch pipe with one 90° bend to the wall thimble.

You may find two 45s work better than a 90 and length of horizontal flue pipe. Come off the stove 24'' or more to your first 45.

 

[Wood Rat]

Does anyone have a few photos of an elevated stove or pedestal stove using two 45°s instead of one 90°? I'd like to see a couple examples if possible. I can't be the only one considering these pipe options.

 

[Wood Rat]

I have 3 questions since learning about the two 45s beats a 90 theory.

1. What's the shortest piece of double wall pipe you can buy?
2. Is using a 45 directly out of the stove legal?
3. What are guys using for pipe probes? If the magnet styles aren't any good....

 

[Wood Rat]

The two 45s beats a 90 is like Sasquatch. Everyone claims to have seen/used it but nobody has real photos.

 

[all night moe]

The two 45s beats a 90 is like Sasquatch. Everyone claims to have seen/used it but nobody has real photos.

I have seen some pics of it here before.
So, in my eyes, Sasquatch is real.

@begreen or @bholler any pics in your files?

 

[Wood Rat]

I have seen some pics of it here before.
So, in my eyes, Sasquatch is real.

@begreen or @bholler any pics in your files?

I'll admit to baiting for a response in hopes members would post photos. I'm only going to have to pipe up from the stove about 2 to 3 feet before making some combination of a 90° turn to match up with my wall thimble. I have concerns that I may be forced to use a 90° elbow to make the connection. Ultimately I won't know until I'm at the "mock up" stage with real pipes and elbows in hand to know what might work or look best.

 

[all night moe]

36'' vertical is preferred from top of stove. If horizontal run is short, and you have adequate height after clean-out T, you might get away with a 90. Stove clearances can negate this.

I'd personally would rather see a slightly shorter vertical, two 45s, and connecting pipe between the 45s. Also helps with stove clearances.

 

[Wood Rat]

I'm not opposed to an upwardly sloped pipe if it's better for the system and overall draft. I do have the luxury of cutting in my wall thimble anywhere I want on the 8 foot wall so I can eliminate the offset problems that a few members have faced. I'll only have about 14" of horizontal run before I have to pass through the thimble. Maybe it won't make much difference but I'd like to set it up with the best chance for draft and less chance of making creosote the first time.

 

[all night moe]

The least hard turns, and horizontal run, the better draft will be.

 

[begreen]

I have seen some pics of it here before.
So, in my eyes, Sasquatch is real.

@begreen or @bholler any pics in your files?

I've posted a few, as have others.

 

[Wood Rat]

Exactly the kind of photos I hoped to see. I'm hoping others have similar photos to share. It really helps to see Stoves actually piped up. Thanks for posting.

 

[begreen]

Exactly the kind of photos I hoped to see. I'm hoping others have similar photos to share. It really helps to see Stoves actually piped up. Thanks for posting.

They're posted in various threads if one looks. I think weee123 has an offset. Here's another one.

Removing damper from woodstove pipe

I usually suggest the 45s instead of a 90º. It's a good idea, but it sounds like the OP may be economically challenged and is trying to use what they have. Replacing pieces seems to be intimidating.

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