goosegunner said:I used some rutland refractory cement that is rated to 3000 degrees to patch the erosion I had. It is holding up surprisingly well.
I vacuumed the ash out of nozzle area and put in a piece of foam board the size of the nozzle opening. I then troweled around the foam with cement. It squared and flattened the opening very well.
The stuff I bought was premixed and about $11 at Menards.
gg
huffdawg said:I have only been burning bigleaf maple and the odd bit of douglas fir . Sure would like to know whats leaving that greenish colour must be something to do with the maple.
Gasifier said:That is a good idea Goosegunner. How long have you been runnning it with the fix like that?
henfruit said:The Vigas has come out with a cast iron nozzle as an option.
Fred61 said:Haven't been around for a while but just popped in and saw this thread. My nozzle looks worse than that after 4 years of burning 3.5 cord, more or less per year. Called Zenon and told him that I would like a new nozzle to have on standby just in case I needed it. His response was "you don't need new nozzle, call me in five year." So it looks like I can't get a nozzle because I haven't waited the alotted time.
In order to protect the nozzle I cut my own in a firebrick and installed it. It sits nicely over the regular nozzle and is held in place by the packed ash in the bottom of the burn chamber. I always leave about two inches of ash in the chamber anyway. After four years, the chamber looks new. Being curious after burning two days with the new nozzle protector which worked fine, by the way, I decided to replace it with a brick that I cut with only a 3/4 inch wide slot as opposed tho the 1 3/8 inch slot on the first brick. I liked the flame much better as it was a nice blue torch instead of a larger lazy flame that entirely filled the chamber. My flue temp dropped significantly and it added about a half hour to my "tank charging" session.
I may have stumbled on to something though and this maybe should be left for another thread. I am one of the few that has never had a door gasket leaking problem. Now I have one. Could it be that those with leaking doors had an unbalanced supply to draft ratio. I am obviously now pressurizing the chamber. I'm usually pretty analytical about troubleshooting problems such as these but in this case, since my boiler is in my basement, I needed to stop the smell so I performed two fixes at once. I reduced the amount of supply air and removed the door gasket, soaked it in detergent and re-installed it 90 degrees to what it was originally. So now I don't know which was the fix.
goosegunner said:Fred61 said:Haven't been around for a while but just popped in and saw this thread. My nozzle looks worse than that after 4 years of burning 3.5 cord, more or less per year. Called Zenon and told him that I would like a new nozzle to have on standby just in case I needed it. His response was "you don't need new nozzle, call me in five year." So it looks like I can't get a nozzle because I haven't waited the alotted time.
In order to protect the nozzle I cut my own in a firebrick and installed it. It sits nicely over the regular nozzle and is held in place by the packed ash in the bottom of the burn chamber. I always leave about two inches of ash in the chamber anyway. After four years, the chamber looks new. Being curious after burning two days with the new nozzle protector which worked fine, by the way, I decided to replace it with a brick that I cut with only a 3/4 inch wide slot as opposed tho the 1 3/8 inch slot on the first brick. I liked the flame much better as it was a nice blue torch instead of a larger lazy flame that entirely filled the chamber. My flue temp dropped significantly and it added about a half hour to my "tank charging" session.
I may have stumbled on to something though and this maybe should be left for another thread. I am one of the few that has never had a door gasket leaking problem. Now I have one. Could it be that those with leaking doors had an unbalanced supply to draft ratio. I am obviously now pressurizing the chamber. I'm usually pretty analytical about troubleshooting problems such as these but in this case, since my boiler is in my basement, I needed to stop the smell so I performed two fixes at once. I reduced the amount of supply air and removed the door gasket, soaked it in detergent and re-installed it 90 degrees to what it was originally. So now I don't know which was the fix.
Fred that looks like a great idea. What is the brand size of the brick?
I have considered trying that with some type of metal but have no idea what type would work, any ideas?
gg
gg
Adios Pantalones said:I have put baking soda in my kiln to "salt" pots- the sodium attacks the pot forming a sodium silicate glass finish that's pretty neat.
I digress- whenever I've put salt or baking soda in there I have got beautiful gobs of blue green stuff that looks almost like that clinker (but a bit more pure of color).
If it's not copper causing the clinker color, then I'd guess there's high salt-content in some wood that you used.
huffdawg said:Adios Pantalones said:I have put baking soda in my kiln to "salt" pots- the sodium attacks the pot forming a sodium silicate glass finish that's pretty neat.
I digress- whenever I've put salt or baking soda in there I have got beautiful gobs of blue green stuff that looks almost like that clinker (but a bit more pure of color).
If it's not copper causing the clinker color, then I'd guess there's high salt-content in some wood that you used.
All the maple was grown less than a mile from the ocean .
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