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Englander Auger Motor Failure and Replacement

Post in 'The Pellet Mill - Pellet and Multifuel Stoves' started by NEStoveOwner, Jan 24, 2009.

  1. NEStoveOwner

    NEStoveOwner Member

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    Thanks for the kind words , i appreciate it.

    Many on here were not in belief of what i said and what i discovered just because they themselves had a good relationship with the company or because they never saw what i saw. I am amused when people can not take facts for facts when their opinions want them to believe other wise. Please see the link in this thread to the other thread.

    I am even more amused when some Americans will by default say Made in the USA is supposed to mean better quality than Made in China. I see people scream all the time over low quality China product but commonly wont have the same level of disappointment when something Made in the USA is inferior in design or assembly.

    To the folks above that posted about the MK motors on Amazon. Please note that is the same brand as originally used in my Englander. I can not speak to whether the quality would be any different.

    And the last thing i would like to add is that i am in another season of flawless performance.

    Gleason Avery ftw !

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  2. Les

    Les New Member

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    This thread was a big help, thanks to all. I wanted to share my findings in case it can help others. Our NES 25PVDC is our main heat source and runs 24/7 during Maine winters....the house was built in 1820 and we burn three bags a day, 6 tons per season. When our stove's lower auger started to hang up and not turn, I noticed the auger was red hot and pellets were burning back into the auger chamber. Cool down and cleaning did not help. I could see the motor itself was turning and thought the gearbox died so I found this thread and then sourced a motor locally for $100. Took everything apart and what I found is why I am posting. My motor and gearbox was fine. The heat had damaged the gasket where the bearing which supports the auger hangs. This failure allowed the grease to dissipate and overheat the bearing! The lower auger would jam up and kill the stove. What I did was, swap the bearing block/gasket from the top auger to the bottom since I had no suitable gasket material and knowing the bottom auger experienced the most heat. I fashioned a steel "gasket" for the top auger and used hi-temp sealant for the reassembly of everything. I also used carb cleaner to loosen the heated bearing and then greased them with hi-temp grease. I did use the new motor and I had to flip the windings for correct rotation. The stove is running fine.

    Since nobody (that I saw) made mention of the bearings, I joined the forum to post my success. One note, when reassembling the augers, they did not turn freely. So, I loosened the bolts and turned the augers with pliers....essentially "aligning" them to the tubes, then tightened the bolts.

    So, what caused the failure in the first place? I assume the transfer of heat from the auger back to the bearing had a lot to do with it and since zero maintenance has been done for three years, the bearing started to bind up which started a snowball effect which toasted the gasket. Also, the infiltration of air around a worn door seal likely did not help as did leaving the hopper open for an extended period a day earlier... So, a new door seal, greasing the bearings after the season and not leaving the hopper open should help. Hopefully, this helps othes as well.
    smoke show likes this.
  3. Harvey Schneider

    Harvey Schneider Minister of Fire

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    The motor draws the rated current at the time it is doing the maximum work it can handle. This would be at the maximum horsepower output (horsepower = torque x RPM). At no load the motor is not doing any work other than overcoming its own friction and windage of the rotor.

    Shaded pole motors run approximately synchronous to the AC line. With an applied load (that is when they are doing work) they slip behind the AC frequency. The motor output shaft RPM is specified at rated load not at no load so it would appear that the rated speed is lower than actual. In real life the load on motors varies and the speed varies with it.
  4. NEStoveOwner

    NEStoveOwner Member

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    My seasonal check in. MY GA motor continues to run flawlessly. I did have one MK motor still in the stove and it is now dead. I will be ordering a GA tonight. The Gleason Avery is 79.95. Englander charges 130.98 for a replacement, i would be interested to know if Englander has changed their motor source or do they still use the inferior MK.
  5. Don2222

    Don2222 Minister of Fire

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  6. NEStoveOwner

    NEStoveOwner Member

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    I called Gleason Avery today. I bought my last motor from them directly in CCW configuration.

    Gleason Avery will not sell anyone there A901 motor in CCW configuration. GA told me i have to buy it from Englander as they have an agreement with Englander.

    Mike does this mean i need to pay Englander $130 for a motor you buy for $79.95? Your website shows $130.
  7. slvrblkk

    slvrblkk Minister of Fire

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    Can you just buy it in the CW configuration and just flip the stack?
  8. imacman

    imacman Guest

    Most auger motors can be reversed....maybe someone w/ a GA can chime in.
  9. slvrblkk

    slvrblkk Minister of Fire

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    Exactly.......according to the website the 901's come CW rotation......just flip the stack....problem solved....

    GEARCASE CONSTRUCTION MOTOR CONSTRUCTION
    Gearcase: Zinc die cast
    Lubrication: Grease filled
    Gears: Hardened steel and phenolic
    Bearings: Spherical
    Mounting: All positions
    Rotation: CW facing shaft
    Shaft: 3/8" diameter x 1" long with flat, hardened Type: Shaded pole
    Protection: Impedance or thermally protected *
    Hz: 60 or 50
    Duty: Intermittent
    Bearings: Self-lubricating bronze sleeve
    Insulation: Class B
    UL and CSA
    Motor Leads: 6" from bobbin
  10. NEStoveOwner

    NEStoveOwner Member

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  11. rich2500

    rich2500 Member

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    have to keep these gleasons in mind for if or when my CSH motors quit

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