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  1. Heidorn39

    Heidorn39 New Member

    Joined:
    Sep 8, 2012
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    This summer, for no reason the exhaust fan (left side) on our ef3 pellet stove started running continuously. We unplugged the power and of course it stopped. When it was plugged in again, the exhaust fan came on and won't stop. I thoroughly cleaned the stove and put back together, hoping it would (fix itself), but it didn't. When we turn on the stove, the green light flashes like usual, the other motor comes on, but the auger motor does not turn. The motor is good. The green light then goes solid green and of course nothing happens.. Anyone have any suggestions as to the cause or a path of troubleshooting?

    I think that the green light always flashes on the unit when it was working but now it is solid..

    This stove is older, probably 10 years or so old. First issue to come up....

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  2. imacman

    imacman Guest

    You had it plugged in all summer?? Surge protector used?
  3. DexterDay

    DexterDay Guest

    How long have you let the stove run after plugging back in?

    Your saying the stove will "start" (exhaust) but it wont feed pellets?

    Have you cleaned the hose to the vacuum switch? Loss of vacuum, will prevent the auger from turning. The hose may be plugged (remove from switch and blow out towards stove) or you may have some bad gaskets (air leaks) which will cause low vacuum levels?

    You can by-pass the switch (only shortly/testing Only!) To see if this is the cause? When was the last time the stove was completely cleaned? Both motors and blowers removed, cleaned, and lubed? Firebox cleaned from intake, to the exhaust, and every passage inbetween?
  4. Heidorn39

    Heidorn39 New Member

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    Was always plugged in but pretty sure power surge not the issue. Nothing else affected and weather was fine when it (came on)
  5. Heidorn39

    Heidorn39 New Member

    Joined:
    Sep 8, 2012
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    Completely cleaned. All motors work. Green light flashes then goes solid which it never did. It always flashed in past. How can I bypass the vacuum switch to test it?
  6. DexterDay

    DexterDay Guest

    Caution: Dealing with Electricity can hurt and/or kill you.

    1st step is to disconnect the stove from the wall. Then once unplugged, locate Vac Switch. Remove 2 wires from vacuum switch and install a jumper wire with correct spades or terminals (basically connectiong the 2 wires to make solid contact).

    This will make the the stove "think" that the Vac switch is engaged.

    Again, this is for testing purposes only! No stove is to be operated with safety switches bypassed!

    If the switch is bad, the auger should feed. When was the last time you checked and inspected the gaskets?

    Insert a dollar bill in the door of the stove, close the door and latch it, then try and pull the dollar out. Do this is several spots on all 4 sides of the door. If you can easily pull the dollar out, then the gasket needs replaced or latch mechanism needs tightened (if possible).
  7. Heidorn39

    Heidorn39 New Member

    Joined:
    Sep 8, 2012
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    Bypassed the vacuum switch, the auger fed the pellets. The stove igniter got warm but did not glow hot enough to ignite the pellets and the exhaust fan still came on when plugged in. Also found out the green light blinks in sync with the feed rate. Didn't know that. Will try the gasket check tomorrow.
  8. DexterDay

    DexterDay Guest

    The exhaust fan will always come on when plugged in? No? Try oetting it run for a bit.

    My Quad goes into an 18 minute run (some are longer/some shorter). Its a safety feature. If there is a power outage and the stove has a fire, this allows the stove to come on immediately when power is restored and stop the smoke from coming in the home.

    If the ignitor isnt lighting pellets and the unit is as old as you say (without replacing the ignitor) then I would buy a new one. That one had a good life. Look in Grainger. They have hundreds. Just match the cartridge size and wattage up. Or maybe someone here already knows a good cross reference #.
  9. smwilliamson

    smwilliamson Minister of Fire

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    Southcoast, MA
    Exhaust fan running continuously...

    The proof of fire switch, manual reset high limit switch, start toggle switch and/or 30 minute timer box may have been damaged or may have been tripped during a power surge...IT'S IT POSSIBLE THAT MORE THAN ONE OF THESE SWITCHES IT BAD...SO CHECK THEM ALL.

    UNPLUG THE UNIT

    Use a multi-meter or test lamp to check for continuity (flow of electric current). Mine has a beep function.

    Check the high limit switch first. It's up over the convection blower and will have a black, blue and purple wires going to it...press the button between the terminals of this switch and listen/ feel for a snap. If you hear or feel it, plug in the unit and see if that was it. Still acting up?

    Check the proof of fire switch, it's on the exhaust blower...it's a ceramic switch with two brown wires going to it, check for continuity across the terminals, it should be open (off) when cold. Remove it and heat the underside with a lighter and listen for the snap, then check continuity again. It should be closed (on) now. Blow on it. It should snap open again when the temp falls -20::F below 140::F or...119::F All good? Hmm. then that wasn't it either

    Check the start up switch. Disconnect both the red and white wires from the switch and check for continuity across the switch. You should have open until you rock the switch and then you should get closed All set? No?

    If you have got down to here and still have not solved the problem....you need to repalce the 30 minute timer box. Note....if the timer box is bad, chances are the auger and igniter should also be operating too. If ONLY the combustion motor is running...double check that high limit switch. It is a normally closed switch so you should be able to bypass it (connect the wires going to it together) to resume normal operation....however...you will want to replace the switch. DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES BYPASS SWITCHES TO GET THE STOVE TO RUN AND LEAVE IT THAT WAY. THAT'S HOW YOU BURN DOWN A HOUSE.

    HAPPY TROUBLESHOOTING!

    Pellet Service Manual Part I
    Pellet Service Manual Part II
  10. smwilliamson

    smwilliamson Minister of Fire

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    If the light blinks during a feed cycle but the auger isn't feeding, you have tripped the high-limit safety switch. The green light will come on and go off when the vac switch is closed. IF the vac switch is open and the unit is on, the light will be on, but dull and sort of flickery...depnding on how much current is leaking through the vac switch. If the green light is ON continuously, then the switch is working but the it is wired up wrong (normally closed instead of normally open) or the vacuum hose is on the H (high) side instead of the L (low side) You want L. Also, make sure the vac hose is free and clear (remove it and blow through it) and poke something small through the hose fitting on the stove to make sure its free and not clogged.
  11. smwilliamson

    smwilliamson Minister of Fire

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    10 year old EF III....you are going to want to replace the auger bushing and plate. Spin the auger and see if the brass bushing spins with the auger shaft if it does....you may also want to look into a new auger motor while you are at it.
  12. Heidorn39

    Heidorn39 New Member

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    If the vac switch is bad, will that cause the exhaust blower to comeon and stay on?
  13. DexterDay

    DexterDay Guest

    No
  14. smwilliamson

    smwilliamson Minister of Fire

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    No the vac switch just cuts power to the feed system
  15. jtakeman

    jtakeman Minister of Fire

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    The dial-a-fire is where you need to start checking things. There is a diagnostics section in the service manual. follow the step by step process and you will sort it out. I can assist if needed!
  16. smwilliamson

    smwilliamson Minister of Fire

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    dial a fire has noting to do with the exhaust blower unless it is a solis, or EF4 (phase Control) EF III doesn't have it. If the problem is not feeding...then that is another story. Either Dial a fire of off/on timer box
  17. jtakeman

    jtakeman Minister of Fire

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    What I meant was debug the dial-a-fire. There is a step by step in the service manual(section 2 on page 35). I'd post the steps here if I could!

    Some EFlll had the stat option and they would have the phase controller if I remember correctly!

    Standard EFlll had 2 switches(snap discs) that control the comb fan. POF- actually called Ingition temp sensor in the igniter circuit and convection temp sensor. If either stick the comb fan will stay on.
  18. Heidorn39

    Heidorn39 New Member

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    Thanks. I will try these tomorrow. Will post results
  19. Heidorn39

    Heidorn39 New Member

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    Feed issue is vac switch or door seal. Will bypass that to try other ideas before buying seal gasket of switch. What is good parts house for these parts?
  20. smwilliamson

    smwilliamson Minister of Fire

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    mountain view hearth supply dot com
  21. Heidorn39

    Heidorn39 New Member

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    Sep 8, 2012
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    Well, the ef2 is toast per everyone talked too short of replacing everything. lightning strike......

    Went out today got a Harman Accentra to replace it? Good or bad decision? input welcome
  22. DexterDay

    DexterDay Guest

    Ouch.... Time to invest in a good surge protector. Protect your investment.


    Not a good decision. :) Its a Great Decision :) Now search Tripp Lite here and get a good surge protector on there. And dont forget the pics. We love pics ;)

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