Hampton hi400

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From what I understand Regency put the restrict or in all new units from the factory back in 2015 or 2016 as many were not getting adequately long burn times. This sounds more like a draft problem than one with the insert to me. What floor is this installed on, is there a liner and is it insulated?
 
From what I understand Regency put the restrict or in all new units from the factory back in 2015 or 2016 as many were not getting adequately long burn times. This sounds more like a draft problem than one with the insert to me. What floor is this installed on, is there a liner and is it insulated?

the floor is solid brick. I do not believe the liner is insulated until the top 3 feet that sticks out of the chimney which is double wall. The installer told me insulated liner was not code. I don't believe they insulated around the stove.
 
the floor is solid brick. I do not believe the liner is insulated until the top 3 feet that sticks out of the chimney which is double wall. The installer told me insulated liner was not code. I don't believe they insulated around the stove.
Did your installer even check the chimney for required clearances before telling you insulation was not required? It almost always is and even if it isnt it will help with your draft issues.
 
They checked the chimney before installation but did not mention anything. I even mentioned that the chimney seems short and if they thought I would have any issues. It was i that mentioned the insulated liner after I realised the poor draft. Obviously this installer, who has been around for years, is not proactive.
I am considering to have another company pull the unit and reinstall. I have to look into code for insulated liner.
Or, just install a draft fan..
 
They checked the chimney before installation but did not mention anything. I even mentioned that the chimney seems short and if they thought I would have any issues. It was i that mentioned the insulated liner after I realised the poor draft. Obviously this installer, who has been around for years, is not proactive.
I am considering to have another company pull the unit and reinstall. I have to look into code for insulated liner.
Or, just install a draft fan..
You dont want a draft fan at all. Code for liner insulation is for an external chimney you need 1" of clearance from the outside of the masonry structure to combustible materials for an internal chimney you need 2". That is what you need for safety. But you will always get performance gains from insulation.
 
You dont want a draft fan at all. Code for liner insulation is for an external chimney you need 1" of clearance from the outside of the masonry structure to combustible materials for an internal chimney you need 2". That is what you need for safety. But you will always get performance gains from insulation.
so maybe the issue was the insulated liner would not fit? why are you against a draft fan?
 
so maybe the issue was the insulated liner would not fit? why are you against a draft fan?
Well first off what type of draft fan are you talking about?

And lack of room is not a reason to ignore codes or safety. There is almost always a way to insulate properly and if there isnt and you dont have clearances the chimney is unsafe to use.
 
Well first off what type of draft fan are you talking about?

And lack of room is not a reason to ignore codes or safety. There is almost always a way to insulate properly and if there isnt and you dont have clearances the chimney is unsafe to use.
 
Never mentioned ignoring codes.
And the draft fan is one which is attached to the top of the chimney.
No i didnt mean you did. I was saying that if your installer didnt insulate simply because there was not room they did.

The chimney top fans do work. But they are very expensive and it is never a good idea in my opinion to rely on something requiring electricity to make your wood stove work. What happens if the power goes out?

Do you know the species and moisture content of your wood?
 
Agreed, that's what I was assuming. Good point about losing power..although we lose power maybe once a year for a couple hours.
I am an arborist by trade. I pick and choose which wood i keep. All my wood is seasoned least 2 years and I prefer black or common cherry for normal use. I keep beech, hickory and oak for the very cold days.
 
Agreed, that's what I was assuming. Good point about losing power..although we lose power maybe once a year for a couple hours.
I am an arborist by trade. I pick and choose which wood i keep. All my wood is seasoned least 2 years and I prefer black or common cherry for normal use. I keep beech, hickory and oak for the very cold days.
Ok then you wood should be good just no one had asked that yet.
 
No it’s more obvious it’s above the brick on the metal. If you look inside there’s a hood look under the hood you can see the hole.
 
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I’m not an artist but I hope this helps.
 
You don’t need to take the bricks out inside that little medal hood there should be two bolts I think 7/16.