Hampton hi400
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Wolves1
Minister of Fire
This is what it looks like on mine not sure on the new stoves. If it is like this loosen the bolts enough that you can pull it out from the two arms.
Ok, yes it's similar to that the bolts are tucked it's hard to see unless you stick your head completely into the stove. I'll do this later . Thanks wolves
Wolves1
Minister of Fire
Loosening the bolts did not seem to do anything. Here are 2 photos. Taken 10 seconds apart. This is a second load of medium to large kindling. The door is slightly cracked open as you can see. The second pic is 10 seconds after closing the door tight. Ghost flames and smoke. The bypass and air are open and the shield is also open. Frustrating!
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Insulating the liner will definitely help draft.
Is that locust you are burning? Locust can be harder to start from cold. Do you have any construction cutoffs (2x4s) that you can use to start a fire underneath the hardwood? If yes, split them in half into 2x2's and criss cross them lincoln log style with paper wads in the middle to start the fire.
Is that locust you are burning? Locust can be harder to start from cold. Do you have any construction cutoffs (2x4s) that you can use to start a fire underneath the hardwood? If yes, split them in half into 2x2's and criss cross them lincoln log style with paper wads in the middle to start the fire.
No that's just a piece that was brought in and out to side. I haven't burned anything that size yet. How could I it would just smoke in this unit. The kindling is dryed tree twigs and 2x cut offs. The secondary is all cherry split small 2 in diameter. Then I go to 3 inch and so on. So now I have a semi ghost flame and the temp is 890. I want to close the bypass but the burn is very weak looking
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To add fuel to the fire (bet you never heard that on this forum) the bypass is stuck because of the bypass shield so I can't close it. Temp is at 850. Is that safe without using the bypass? I can par the air a little but my neighbors will curse me...
How long do you let it burn before closing the door?
I have had issues on startup with a cold stove and found an extended burn (15 to 20 minutes or more) with the door cracked open helps.
When it is time to close the door I do it in increments by pushing the door closed but not latching it all the way. Let it run like that for a few minutes until the temperature increases to 600f and then latch the door all the way and close the bypass.
I have had issues on startup with a cold stove and found an extended burn (15 to 20 minutes or more) with the door cracked open helps.
When it is time to close the door I do it in increments by pushing the door closed but not latching it all the way. Let it run like that for a few minutes until the temperature increases to 600f and then latch the door all the way and close the bypass.
Similar method about 30 minutes with door cracked open, but I do not trust latching in increments as I have found that the door could pop open. And if that happens I will have smoke shooting into the living room. So I use the brick method..haha. But I really have to monitor the burn before I shut the door as all the oxygen seems to get cut off.
On another note I'm running the fan for the first time and ... this is how a wood stove should feel. This is how my dutchwest stove felt with no blower.
Feeling a little better
)
On another note I'm running the fan for the first time and ... this is how a wood stove should feel. This is how my dutchwest stove felt with no blower.
Feeling a little better
)
Yes it seems it did. So I won't be going in there to fix until tomorrow. I can adjust it by wiggling it around but it's not 100 percent right. It should glide effortlessly and not move when the bypass is open and closed. I assume this is a common problem?
That's certainly how it should work but the track seems flimsy and comes loose quite easily. Thanks
Do you manually have to pull back the upper shield on a cold start after prior engagement of the bypass?
That was my intention because I have horrible draft. But it came off track the second day I had the stove, so, I'm not really sure.
When the insert is cold it would be helpful to get the shield back on track and then take a movie of it coming off track. Do you have a dealer working with ou on this issue?
Wolves1
Minister of Fire
Wolves1
Minister of Fire
Yes that’s how it works but if you move the shield and slide to the side it blocks the bypass from closing.
Wolves1
Minister of Fire
There are 2 guide pins not shown in that video and matching slots in the shield for it to slide along. One on the right side and one one the left. Your shield must have lifted up and off the pins. You will need to just fumble around with it when it is cold to get it back on track.
Wolves1
Minister of Fire
Please don’t laugh at my drawing like my wife just did. Looking from the inside when you loosen the bolts picture 1, then picture 2 the plate should slide out, picture 3 the plate should come completely off. Then tighten the bolts again.
Wolves1
Minister of Fire
It’s just a plate the makes the hole smaller to let less air in when you slide it off you should see a much bigger hole. That’s if your stove has that plate.
Yes, it was just installed 2 weeks ago so they're co
Ok I'll do that, but even loosening I figured there would be a difference. Thanks wolves
