I just bought a Whitfield Profile 30 to help heat my home. I installed it this past wekend and its been a pain since. Its in my basement, I have a T coming out of it, to a 3ft vertical to a 90 then a 24" through the wall to a horizontal vent. Now that you have an idea of what I'm working with here, I hope you guys can help me out. The pipes were leaking smoke at startup and the house was smelling of wood burning. I took the pipes apart and put red RTV anywhere I saw a rivet or joint. then I usd more around all the joining seams. The 90 still leaks. Thats the first problem. My new problem is this... When I start it up, I get a full pot and it starts well, then after that burns down, it doesnt refill. I've tracked it to the pressure switch. When I disconnect the hose from the pressure switch the auger starts. When I reconnect it, the auger will still run until the pot is full, but doesnt refill after that cycle. if I leave the hose off the switch it works great. That means the pressure switch is working right. I took compressed air and shot it into the hose that goes to the exhaust and it seems clear. I took the pipes apart and they are clear. What could be causing the pressure switch to trip? I've only burned the stove 3 times. I cant contact the dealer, they are stupid, and can only sell them... They couldn't explain how it worked if you drew them a picture. Could the exhaust exit be clogged already?
Help Guys, I'm New Here
- Thread starter 1BadTitan
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BadTitan, welcome to the forum.....lots of nice and helpful people here.
So if I read your post correctly, the stove and piping is all new, correct? If so, and you've just started using it, I can't imagine the stove or pipes are blocked, but that's what the pressure switch is saying. Since the stove runs fine when you bypass it, then it's either a blockage, or the switch is bad. I guess a bad switch is possible, but they don't go bad very often. Maybe the stove shop can give you a replacement pressure switch that you can install & try?
As for the smoke from the pipes, the T is usually the hardest to sel up, as it has the most joints. Have you tried using aluminum foil furnace tape to wrap around the outside of the T joints?
So if I read your post correctly, the stove and piping is all new, correct? If so, and you've just started using it, I can't imagine the stove or pipes are blocked, but that's what the pressure switch is saying. Since the stove runs fine when you bypass it, then it's either a blockage, or the switch is bad. I guess a bad switch is possible, but they don't go bad very often. Maybe the stove shop can give you a replacement pressure switch that you can install & try?
As for the smoke from the pipes, the T is usually the hardest to sel up, as it has the most joints. Have you tried using aluminum foil furnace tape to wrap around the outside of the T joints?
I havent tried the foil tape yet... As for the pressure, the switch proved good. Can wind blowing outside cause the prssure switch to trip, maybe backflowing through the exhaust? if it were a blockage, wouldnt the compressed air blow it free? I was wondering about a blockage because of the burn in from the initial startup, and maybe some soot settled on the flange before it exited the stove into the piping. I dont know, I'm irritated with it now...
krooser
Minister of Fire
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
Could you reconnect the hose, open a window in the room the stove is in and try again?
I'm wondering if there is anything that is causing negative pressure which while unlikely can trip up the vacuum sensing system.
I'm wondering if there is anything that is causing negative pressure which while unlikely can trip up the vacuum sensing system.
Ok guys... I got home from work this morning and cleaned the entire stove out. I vaccumed it all out and fired it up. Worked like a champ. I dont know what the hell it couldve been. One thing I have a problem with though... The 4 bolt flange that comes off the exhaust blower to the 3" pipe outlet, know what I mean? Well that gasket that goes in between the flanges is torn and shredded. I called the hearth store and they said they may have one in stock, but I was thinking of just buying gasket material and making a new one. Where can I find that fiberglass paper gasket stuff to make one?
1BadTitan said:
Glad to hear that the stove is working now. As for the gasket, since it's a new stove, why not just get a new one from the dealer....it should be covered under warranty, unless you took the flanges apart and tore it yourself.....
If that's the case, you can get sheet auto header gasket at auto parts store, or furnace gasket material at plumbing/heating supply.
Well I took it apart when I traced the source of my smoke leaking back to that. Then while it was apart, I removed the flange and the gasket was trashed. No wonder it leaks.
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
Yeah, you have to be very careful with gaskets, most of the time if there is a gasket between two parts in a stove you need to be certain that you have a replacement before even attempting to remove any part that the gasket touches. Even if you get the two parts apart without damaging the gasket, it is possible that when you re-seat the parts there will be a leak.
Czech
Minister of Fire
SmokeyTheBear said:
yea, I should have known better, but I had to get it cleaned out... the dealer said they may have a replacement for me.
krooser
Minister of Fire
Just came from my dealer... They gave me a new gasket, and more run-around about where my log set is for my stove. They are saying Lennox is telling them they will ship any day now. Its been almost 2 weeks
cncpro
New Member
1BadTitan said:Just came from my dealer... They gave me a new gasket, and more run-around about where my log set is for my stove. They are saying Lennox is telling them they will ship any day now. Its been almost 2 weeks
Don't be too anxious to get the log set. Not sure about the Lennox models but generally the opinions I've read about log sets in pellet stoves say that they're a great big hassle and ultimately a waste of money. I don't have first hand experience with them but I remember it sounded like a great idea to me & my wife until we looked into it a little...
I just wanted them for the asthetics of them... They do look like they will mean extra cleaning.
SmokeyTheBear
Minister of Fire
1BadTitan said:
Just remember to take it out before you really use your stove for serious heating. They are a nuisance, mine came with one, the log set sits in the stove only when it isn't heating season. Depending upon where it sits it can collect ash and then the ash can avalanche back into the burn pot, which is the very last place you want it :-S .
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