home made splitter progress pics
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Hey guy, I like what you have going there. Nice tall wedge too. Also I like your choice of tank size. I've always felt the store bought ones skimp on reservoir size. They are plenty enough for winter or cooler temps use but on an 80 degree day and the cylinder can get real hot. Most pump mfgs recommend same volume as pump capacity but I've found that's too much. I'm guessing about 10gallons for a 16gmp pump is about right and if the fluid won't make between 130-160 then you can always drain some out which is what I do on mine. I adjust reservoir to winter summer use.
Thanks! Still a bit of work to be done, but its looking like a splitter now.
Yeah the wedge is about 11" tall by 1" thick and have room if i ever wanted to do a 4 way.
The tank should hold about 20 gallons. Definitely a work in progress but am glad i decided to build my own.
Yeah the wedge is about 11" tall by 1" thick and have room if i ever wanted to do a 4 way.
The tank should hold about 20 gallons. Definitely a work in progress but am glad i decided to build my own.
muncybob
Minister of Fire
Nice job! ...and you're even going to paint her! Nice wide axle too...should go about anywhere. Since you are pushing the wood into the wedge won't they tend to fall off further down the I-beam as compatred to where your cradle ends?
maxed_out
New Member
looking good. where do you plan on putting the motor and the controls? I'd have to agree with muncybob about the "tending to fall off" comment.
whats the axle off of?
whats the axle off of?
While you are in fabricating mode, I'd vote to go ahead with the four way from the get-go. If you have the power to do so....I think it would speed things up considerably. Almost always, for me anyways, I'm doing at least a quad split. Seems like it might make the far side cradle that much more important, as two pieces are falling over, not just one.
Anyone with a four way have drawbacks of having the four way?
Anyone with a four way have drawbacks of having the four way?
It is looking good, guy.
Since you are still in fab mode I would suggest that you revisit the placement of your control valve. It is not that it won't work where it is, but from an ergonomic point of view, you are going to be "spread eagle" for each split. You may want to consider moving the valve to a higher and more center point of the splitter (something like above and to the front end of the cylinder). It will make your hand placement much more "natural".
You might also want to look at an out feed table. They work SWEET on a wedge on beam setup. Then we can start talking about a log lift... %-P
Just one dudes opinion.
Since you are still in fab mode I would suggest that you revisit the placement of your control valve. It is not that it won't work where it is, but from an ergonomic point of view, you are going to be "spread eagle" for each split. You may want to consider moving the valve to a higher and more center point of the splitter (something like above and to the front end of the cylinder). It will make your hand placement much more "natural".
You might also want to look at an out feed table. They work SWEET on a wedge on beam setup. Then we can start talking about a log lift... %-P
Just one dudes opinion.
Thanks for the suggestions!
As far as the log catcher, 99% of the time i split seasoned pine and rarely run it completely through the wedge.
Usually it cracks within a few inches of hitting the wedge, turn it 90 degrees and crack it again, throw it in the pile. The single catcher is for when i split bigger rounds. I half them on the splitter, put one aside while i work on the first half. I try hard to not let any wood hit the ground, split it close to the wood pile, throw to wife and kids to stack.
I have learned to be efficient with firewood in general and try hard to handle each piece as little as possible. I may add a smaller on to the operator side and one off the back of the wedge. Nice thing about building it yourself, you can engineer to fit what you do and can add on later.
Its hard to see in the pics but the splitter is quite high. I am 6'5 and built it to fit, the valve is comfortable at waist height.
I think i will make a 4 way that slips over this wedge.
The axle is actually a trailer house axle i cut down to size.
Any suggestions on where to mount the engine? I was going to work on it today but the wife is sick so i am Mr. Mom all day.
Operator side? Up down? I was planning on setting it up on the non operator side high and out of the way. But nothing is in stone if you have any good suggestions.
Thanks!
As far as the log catcher, 99% of the time i split seasoned pine and rarely run it completely through the wedge.
Usually it cracks within a few inches of hitting the wedge, turn it 90 degrees and crack it again, throw it in the pile. The single catcher is for when i split bigger rounds. I half them on the splitter, put one aside while i work on the first half. I try hard to not let any wood hit the ground, split it close to the wood pile, throw to wife and kids to stack.
I have learned to be efficient with firewood in general and try hard to handle each piece as little as possible. I may add a smaller on to the operator side and one off the back of the wedge. Nice thing about building it yourself, you can engineer to fit what you do and can add on later.
Its hard to see in the pics but the splitter is quite high. I am 6'5 and built it to fit, the valve is comfortable at waist height.
I think i will make a 4 way that slips over this wedge.
The axle is actually a trailer house axle i cut down to size.
Any suggestions on where to mount the engine? I was going to work on it today but the wife is sick so i am Mr. Mom all day.
Operator side? Up down? I was planning on setting it up on the non operator side high and out of the way. But nothing is in stone if you have any good suggestions.
Thanks!
Which ever way or place you put it just make sure the exhaust points away from the operators posistion.
SolarAndWood
Minister of Fire
SolarAndWood said:
It may look that way in the photo but it is comfortable for me at least.
It is just above waist high, i placed the valve on top of the cylinder before i decided on this placement and it was too high and cumbersome.
This is why i why i decided to do my own, for fit and comfort. And i can try it out and if something needs tweaked its no big deal. Many of the store bought models i looked at were 16"- 20" working height. That would destroy my back as i am 6'5 325.
SolarAndWood
Minister of Fire
I will check it out again, i do see what you mean about having your hands on the top of the logs already.
I used a friends splitter for 2 years and he had it mounted about like mine is and it i never noticed it being uncomfortable
or inefficient. I hope to get some work done on it tomorrow, i will spend a few minutes and look at the valve placement again.
Thanks for the replies, it has been a fun project.
I used a friends splitter for 2 years and he had it mounted about like mine is and it i never noticed it being uncomfortable
or inefficient. I hope to get some work done on it tomorrow, i will spend a few minutes and look at the valve placement again.
Thanks for the replies, it has been a fun project.
I'm 6'2" and likely 320 or so....so I'd love to have the splitter up a few more inches. My wife at 5'1" even says it should be higher....so nice to custom fab it to your height! As for the engine, I'd say to make sure it is as far out of the way as possible. With my little troy built, I know inevitably splits will build up on the far side of the splitter and pile up...and then eventually some will bang the motor up a bit. The air filter has been cracked (all plastic housing) and I know my wife has had an incident with the starter rope. She usually runs the splitter as I am dragging logs in and blocking...and the kids are stacking. Sometimes though we'll split without the kids and the pile will build...and then a piece will bang the engine. I've always said I wanted to build a cover plate of sorts to protect the engine....never did. Just a thought........
I would go with the engine between the tank and the wheel on the table side of the splitter, keeping in mind tongue weight. This is one of the last few parts with any real weight to it that you have left. Use it to balance out a comfortable tongue for moving around.
Edit: it is not absolutely critical, but I like the idea of keeping the pump below the water line of the hydraulic oil. They DO create suction to over come an empty pump, but if it sits for any length of time, I like the idea that the pump is full of oil for storage and starting after a long nap.
Edit: it is not absolutely critical, but I like the idea of keeping the pump below the water line of the hydraulic oil. They DO create suction to over come an empty pump, but if it sits for any length of time, I like the idea that the pump is full of oil for storage and starting after a long nap.
maxed_out
New Member
I'd have ta agree with Jags suggestions. He's got some nicely farm engineered toys himself and his suggestions are on the money. Tongue weight is another good one to watch.
You thinking log lifter too? I just did a load of 32" locust and thankfully mine can tilt. I believe Jags did a log lifter off a winch and cable if I'm not mistaken.
You thinking log lifter too? I just did a load of 32" locust and thankfully mine can tilt. I believe Jags did a log lifter off a winch and cable if I'm not mistaken.
I revisited the splitter valve placement today and ended up leaving it, it will be plenty user friendly and comfortable.
I also mounted the engine, catcher side and up a bit. I did not have enough room on the axle. I think it will work fine here.
Out of the way and still able to get to all controls easily.
No log lift in the plans as of yet. Thats why i feed two boys!
Actually found it most efficient to have the kid or wife roll the chunked logs directly from the trailer to the splitter.
No need for lifting anything. Usually split right next to the wood pile and stack as we go.
I am big on handling firewood as few times as possible, when i first started burning i did it all wrong and handled each piece too many times
and still had to bring it in the house.
I primed and painted it today and will add a second coat tomorrow. Re mount engine valve and cylinder. Measure and order lines.
Its lookin' good and i appreciate your guys help and suggestions.
I also mounted the engine, catcher side and up a bit. I did not have enough room on the axle. I think it will work fine here.
Out of the way and still able to get to all controls easily.
No log lift in the plans as of yet. Thats why i feed two boys!
Actually found it most efficient to have the kid or wife roll the chunked logs directly from the trailer to the splitter.
No need for lifting anything. Usually split right next to the wood pile and stack as we go.
I am big on handling firewood as few times as possible, when i first started burning i did it all wrong and handled each piece too many times
and still had to bring it in the house.
I primed and painted it today and will add a second coat tomorrow. Re mount engine valve and cylinder. Measure and order lines.
Its lookin' good and i appreciate your guys help and suggestions.
Having the valve lower has any one considered or tried a foot operated valve or a horseshoe shaped handle to put your knee in to operate leaving both hands free. Maybe with a rod sticking up on it so you can operate with your hand too.
SolarAndWood
Minister of Fire
All i need is hydraulic lines, fluid, oil and gas.
Then the real work begins.
Will the return line be ok as is in the photo? With hose obviously.
What type of hyd fluid do you guys recommend? I was told ATF fluid is ok and much cheaper?
My cylinder could use a touch up, this is how it arrived from Northern. Was not too impressed with how they shipped it.
Thanks for all your help
Then the real work begins.
Will the return line be ok as is in the photo? With hose obviously.
What type of hyd fluid do you guys recommend? I was told ATF fluid is ok and much cheaper?
My cylinder could use a touch up, this is how it arrived from Northern. Was not too impressed with how they shipped it.
Thanks for all your help
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