I don't know anything...but at least I know that.

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I vote Cottonwood.(Balsam Poplar)
The smaller trees have a white/gray bark (like last picture) close to aspen until they get big, then a thick rough bark on the trunk, like in the first picture.
15 mil btu/cord, one of the softest hard woods & least btu: http://forestry.alaska.gov/pdfs/08BTUFirewoodHandout.pdf
It dries fast when split. But still going to be hard to get it dry for this season.
If it's all you got, it's ok. I get some every now & then,but don't go out of my way to get it. Burns fast. Good shoulder season wood.
Split the big one by hitting just the edge with a medium blow, not in the middle then the opposite edge to split it down the middle.
I was taught to hit the edge always, saves from breaking maul handles & splits easier in the weaker grain near the edge, & the maul head gets stuck less.
 
Ok, I'm guessing "shoulder season" is before it gets real cold (fall) and after the real cold leaves(spring)?

I've noticed the same thing using the edge hits, especially with the big trunk cuts. I also swear I can see a big difference in wood that's been split for about 1 to 2 weeks.

Thanks alot guys, although this means my friend was right, and I probably owe him a beer once he gets out of his dear stand.
 
What I would do in your situation would be to find woodlots where you can cut, and look for dead standing trees. Trees with the bark fallen off and/or only larger branches left (twigs gone) will be good bets to be dry enough to burn pretty well. Lately, I've come across several such Red Elms, and they all have moisture content of 22% or lower according to my cheap meter. Dead standing wood will generally be drier than dead down wood.
 
Sounds smart. Kind of why I picked this spot. Cut down last year, criss crossed so much of the lumber is"airborn" and on high ground. Thought I had a winner going, but the type of wood wasn't the best. Live and learn... to burn.
 
Yeah, that looks like Cottonwood. It will burn and is a lot better than nothing. I'd take it until you have a year or two worth of wood (figure around 4 cords per year), then go looking for something more dense. A big factor in deciding if a wood is desirable or not is how easy it is to cut, load, etc. If there was a bunch of easy cottonwood close to my house I'd go colect some. If I had to haul cottonwood out of a ditch and carry it a long way to the trailer I wouldn't bother (but I have all the wood I need for a year or two). Another factor is your schedule. I work from home so relaoding is no problem during the day, which means I can burn a lot of lightweight wood conveniently.
 
You guys are good! The DNR Forester said it was Cottonwood too, and was going to give me a call when came across something better.
 
If you can get some compressed wood bricks (they go under a variety of names--Bio/Eco/Geo Bricks) and mix them with the undeasoned wood they will help it burn better.
 
schlot said:
You guys are good! The DNR Forester said it was Cottonwood too, and was going to give me a call when came across something better.

Wow, that's a good guy. I think you have a good DNR forester, not often you get that kind of help from DNR.
You must have contact in high places :)
 
bogydave said:
schlot said:
You guys are good! The DNR Forester said it was Cottonwood too, and was going to give me a call when came across something better.

Wow, that's a good guy. I think you have a good DNR forester, not often you get that kind of help from DNR.
You must have contact in high places :)
I get the impression that the Iowa DNR is like that.
 
Yes they sure are.
 
Yes, cottonwood; including the limbs which have a different looking bark.

Cottonwood is very high moisture when cut but the good part is that it can dry fast. Of course, drying is best done outside in the wind. Time is not on your side this year though.

On the pallets, even the recycling places many times have broken pallets that they will not use and you very well may be able to pick some of them up cheap or for free.
 
Well I went out and bought a moisture gauge from Lowes yesterday. I took readings on six different pieces, two each from my two wood piles and from the stack near inside. I wrote the moisture and date on the end of the piece. I will re-split and then test again half of them in a month and the second set a month later. Just for sh*ts and giggles.
 
schlot said:
Well I went out and bought a moisture gauge from Lowes yesterday. I took readings on six different pieces, two each from my two wood piles and from the stack near inside. I wrote the moisture and date on the end of the piece. I will re-split and then test again half of them in a month and the second set a month later. Just for sh*ts and giggles.
I'm surprised you got a reading at all. Figured you'd get something like OL (over limit) like mine does!
 
schlot said:
Well I went out and bought a moisture gauge from Lowes yesterday. I took readings on six different pieces, two each from my two wood piles and from the stack near inside. I wrote the moisture and date on the end of the piece.
What range of readings did you get on that stuff?
 
From memory they ranged from 33 to 39. Will go out and look after I get this dang cheesecake baked for tomorrow. HAPPY THANKSGIVING ALL!
 
schlot said:
From memory they ranged from 33 to 39. Will go out and look after I get this dang cheesecake baked for tomorrow. HAPPY THANKSGIVING ALL!
You could toss a couple of those wet splits in to dry when you bake the cheesecake. Get as much use out of that heat as you can! You may have some folks asking about the recipe for that different-tasting cheesecake.
I have to bake the turkey soon...maybe I should toss a few splits of my wet Hickory in with it. Yummm! :lol:
 
Schlot, welcome and good luck with your new stove. I have had a lot of luck finding seasoned wood on craigs list. I check it every day and have scored probably 2 cords of seasoned oak in the past year. So check craigs list under the free link. You may be surprised what you find. Good luck!
 
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