I MADE THINGS A LOT WORSE!!!!!!!!!!!!

[AppalachianStan]

I will go to Lowe's today and buy the stove pipe to put on the chimney top to see if that will help it draft better. Then see if one of my sons can out it on for me. And clean that cap at the same time.

 

[BrowningBAR]

I will go to Lowe's today and buy the stove pipe to put on the chimney top to see if that will help it draft better. Then see if one of my sons can out it on for me. And clean that cap at the same time.

I really think that is a waste of time and money at this point.

 

[pip3398]

Guys I know you all are doing you best to help me. I wish one of you lived near me to see what you can do with the stove I have. It is just frustrating because of the shape I am in to get anything done. At this time it is not feasible for me and my wife to do anything until the money is there. I have hope it will be sooner than later. I have to much money in the SS Class a chimney to damaged it by milting it with to much heat up the chimney. As for blowing it there has not been much to come out of the intakes but hopefully it is enough.

Stan, I have just read through all of the posts on this thread and figured I had better comment. Adding Cat's at this point will not help anything. Do not spend money on them until the stove is drafting correctly.

You either have a lack of draft or a blocked air intake. You need to add a section of pipe (probably 3') of single wall at the chimney top. A chimney is supposed to act as like a vacuum cleaner sucking the smoke out of the house. When the door is open, there is enough unrestricted air through the chimney for the stove to burn. When you close the door you need a lot more suction to remove the smoke and bring oxygen fresh air into the firebox. If you were to put a draft gauge on your chimney, I am sure it would have a very low reading.

Your stove as it sits without the cats is no different than an old timberline or fisher and those stoves would heat up with no problem. Most any stove and chimney will burn fine with the door open regardless of if the chimney is drafting or not. Heat rising with plenty of fresh air will overcome a poor draft. The difference is that when you have proper draft it will be able to draw through the small air openings of the stove.

A 3' piece of single wall is only $20. Get one and push the corrugated end into your chimney with no cap. I think you will see the stove burn better right away. If the chimney doesn't draft well, than no stove will work well there.

As to you saying you need an 8" flue stove now, that would be incorrect. Most stoves with 6" flues are approved to hook up to 8" chimneys with a reducer.

If this works make sure you get the proper pipe for when it gets cold. When temps drop you need insulated pipe all the way up.

 

[AppalachianStan]

I will go to Lowe's today and buy the stove pipe to put on the chimney top to see if that will help it draft better. Then see if one of my sons can out it on for me. And clean that cap at the same time.

I really think that is a waste of time and money at this point.

Guys I know you all are doing you best to help me. I wish one of you lived near me to see what you can do with the stove I have. It is just frustrating because of the shape I am in to get anything done. At this time it is not feasible for me and my wife to do anything until the money is there. I have hope it will be sooner than later. I have to much money in the SS Class a chimney to damaged it by milting it with to much heat up the chimney. As for blowing it there has not been much to come out of the intakes but hopefully it is enough.

Stan, I have just read through all of the posts on this thread and figured I had better comment. Adding Cat's at this point will not help anything. Do not spend money on them until the stove is drafting correctly.

You either have a lack of draft or a blocked air intake. You need to add a section of pipe (probably 3') of single wall at the chimney top. A chimney is supposed to act as like a vacuum cleaner sucking the smoke out of the house. When the door is open, there is enough unrestricted air through the chimney for the stove to burn. When you close the door you need a lot more suction to remove the smoke and bring oxygen fresh air into the firebox. If you were to put a draft gauge on your chimney, I am sure it would have a very low reading.

Your stove as it sits without the cats is no different than an old timberline or fisher and those stoves would heat up with no problem. Most any stove and chimney will burn fine with the door open regardless of if the chimney is drafting or not. Heat rising with plenty of fresh air will overcome a poor draft. The difference is that when you have proper draft it will be able to draw through the small air openings of the stove.

A 3' piece of single wall is only $20. Get one and push the corrugated end into your chimney with no cap. I think you will see the stove burn better right away. If the chimney doesn't draft well, than no stove will work well there.

As to you saying you need an 8" flue stove now, that would be incorrect. Most stoves with 6" flues are approved to hook up to 8" chimneys with a reducer.

If this works make sure you get the proper pipe for when it gets cold. When temps drop you need insulated pipe all the way up.

Ok, What did you say again sorry with so many replies. BrowningBAR I just not remember?
Some say get a new wood stove and some say fix the one I have.
Some say get a piece of single wall stove pipe it will help.
Lowe's only has 2' single wall stove pipe @ $15.00 and I just said I will get it. And then some say no waste of time and money at this point
I am so confused and do not know what to do at this point.......... :-S

 

[BrowningBAR]

I will go to Lowe's today and buy the stove pipe to put on the chimney top to see if that will help it draft better. Then see if one of my sons can out it on for me. And clean that cap at the same time.

I really think that is a waste of time and money at this point.

Ok, What did you say again sorry with so many replies I not remember?
Some say get a new one and some say fix the one I have.
I am confused and do not know what to do at this point.......... :-S

Take a moment and review BeGreen's response:

I have to disagree with that statement. Many have advised not spending any money on this old stove and instead replacing it with a modern, under $1000 stove. These suggestions have been resisted, so in response people have tried to help you get the stove in shape.

If the gasket replacement has slowed airflow to the point that the stove can't keep a fire up, then either its intake is blocked (with cobewebs, dust, ash or the like). Or it is getting insufficient draft. If the wood is poorly seasoned, it will make the situation worse. Can we assume that now the stove will not draft well even with the bypass wide open?

If this is the case, try to remove the intake grille if possible and get a good strong shop vac in there to suck it out. Then find all the outlet areas where the air enters the firebox and vacuum them out. Actually, the most effective treatment would be to take the stove outside and blow compressed air through the intake and air passages to get them completely cleared. Also, check the stove cap screen to make sure it is not starting to plug up.

Regardless of the problem, adding a cat at this point is unlikely to solve the issue. If all passages are clear than it could be that the stove just needs more flue to create better draft now that air can no longer seep in like it did past many gaps in the gaskets.

 

[pip3398]

Stan,
For $15. you can find out if you have a draft problem. When you bring in your air compressor you can blow out the intakes and make sure they are clean. One or both of these things is the problem.

Cat's will not increase draft.

I've been working with wood stoves for 25 years. Draft is the most important thing with any wood stove.

 

[BrowningBAR]

Stan,
For $15. you can find out if you have a draft problem. When you bring in your air compressor you can blow out the intakes and make sure they are clean. One or both of these things is the problem.

Cat's will not increase draft.

I've been working with wood stoves for 25 years. Draft is the most important thing with any wood stove.

There are other problems than just the draft.

 

[AppalachianStan]

Ok guys just blew out the intake it was fairly clean. Now need to get someone on the roof to get the cap down so I can clean it.

 

[AppalachianStan]

I will go to Lowe's today and buy the stove pipe to put on the chimney top to see if that will help it draft better. Then see if one of my sons can out it on for me. And clean that cap at the same time.

I really think that is a waste of time and money at this point.

Guys I know you all are doing you best to help me. I wish one of you lived near me to see what you can do with the stove I have. It is just frustrating because of the shape I am in to get anything done. At this time it is not feasible for me and my wife to do anything until the money is there. I have hope it will be sooner than later. I have to much money in the SS Class a chimney to damaged it by milting it with to much heat up the chimney. As for blowing it there has not been much to come out of the intakes but hopefully it is enough.

Stan, I have just read through all of the posts on this thread and figured I had better comment. Adding Cat's at this point will not help anything. Do not spend money on them until the stove is drafting correctly.

You either have a lack of draft or a blocked air intake. You need to add a section of pipe (probably 3') of single wall at the chimney top. A chimney is supposed to act as like a vacuum cleaner sucking the smoke out of the house. When the door is open, there is enough unrestricted air through the chimney for the stove to burn. When you close the door you need a lot more suction to remove the smoke and bring oxygen fresh air into the firebox. If you were to put a draft gauge on your chimney, I am sure it would have a very low reading.

Your stove as it sits without the cats is no different than an old timberline or fisher and those stoves would heat up with no problem. Most any stove and chimney will burn fine with the door open regardless of if the chimney is drafting or not. Heat rising with plenty of fresh air will overcome a poor draft. The difference is that when you have proper draft it will be able to draw through the small air openings of the stove.

A 3' piece of single wall is only $20. Get one and push the corrugated end into your chimney with no cap. I think you will see the stove burn better right away. If the chimney doesn't draft well, than no stove will work well there.

As to you saying you need an 8" flue stove now, that would be incorrect. Most stoves with 6" flues are approved to hook up to 8" chimneys with a reducer.

If this works make sure you get the proper pipe for when it gets cold. When temps drop you need insulated pipe all the way up.

Ok, What did you say again sorry with so many replies. BrowningBAR I just not remember?
Some say get a new wood stove and some say fix the one I have.
Some say get a piece of single wall stove pipe it will help.
Lowe's only has 2' single wall stove pipe @ $15.00 and I just said I will get it. And then some say no waste of time and money at this point
I am so confused and do not know what to do at this point.......... :-S

I need to add, some say buy the cats and some say don't buy the cats.
Guys your arguments for both side of my problem makes sense to me. But I am still so confused and do not know what to do at this point.......... :-S

 

[AppalachianStan]

Stan,
For $15. you can find out if you have a draft problem. When you bring in your air compressor you can blow out the intakes and make sure they are clean. One or both of these things is the problem.

Cat's will not increase draft.

I've been working with wood stoves for 25 years. Draft is the most important thing with any wood stove.

There are other problems than just the draft.

Hey, BrowningBAR can you ran though the list of problems that you think may be playing a roll in my problems with the stove. Now you can't use I am just an unlucky guy. lol

 

[BrowningBAR]

I will go to Lowe's today and buy the stove pipe to put on the chimney top to see if that will help it draft better. Then see if one of my sons can out it on for me. And clean that cap at the same time.

I really think that is a waste of time and money at this point.

Guys I know you all are doing you best to help me. I wish one of you lived near me to see what you can do with the stove I have. It is just frustrating because of the shape I am in to get anything done. At this time it is not feasible for me and my wife to do anything until the money is there. I have hope it will be sooner than later. I have to much money in the SS Class a chimney to damaged it by milting it with to much heat up the chimney. As for blowing it there has not been much to come out of the intakes but hopefully it is enough.

Stan, I have just read through all of the posts on this thread and figured I had better comment. Adding Cat's at this point will not help anything. Do not spend money on them until the stove is drafting correctly.

You either have a lack of draft or a blocked air intake. You need to add a section of pipe (probably 3') of single wall at the chimney top. A chimney is supposed to act as like a vacuum cleaner sucking the smoke out of the house. When the door is open, there is enough unrestricted air through the chimney for the stove to burn. When you close the door you need a lot more suction to remove the smoke and bring oxygen fresh air into the firebox. If you were to put a draft gauge on your chimney, I am sure it would have a very low reading.

Your stove as it sits without the cats is no different than an old timberline or fisher and those stoves would heat up with no problem. Most any stove and chimney will burn fine with the door open regardless of if the chimney is drafting or not. Heat rising with plenty of fresh air will overcome a poor draft. The difference is that when you have proper draft it will be able to draw through the small air openings of the stove.

A 3' piece of single wall is only $20. Get one and push the corrugated end into your chimney with no cap. I think you will see the stove burn better right away. If the chimney doesn't draft well, than no stove will work well there.

As to you saying you need an 8" flue stove now, that would be incorrect. Most stoves with 6" flues are approved to hook up to 8" chimneys with a reducer.

If this works make sure you get the proper pipe for when it gets cold. When temps drop you need insulated pipe all the way up.

Ok, What did you say again sorry with so many replies. BrowningBAR I just not remember?
Some say get a new wood stove and some say fix the one I have.
Some say get a piece of single wall stove pipe it will help.
Lowe's only has 2' single wall stove pipe @ $15.00 and I just said I will get it. And then some say no waste of time and money at this point
I am so confused and do not know what to do at this point.......... :-S

I need to add, some say buy the cats and some say don't buy the cats.
Guys your arguments for both side of my problem makes sense to me. But I am still so confused and do not know what to do at this point.......... :-S

Again, review BeGreen's posts.

 

[AppalachianStan]

Let me make sure I am right on the #1 thing BeGreen Said is buy a new wood stove. Is this true?
If yes this is true. Then I should stop worrying about my old wood stove and just wait on the new one. YES?

 

[Chettt]

Stan, the Mayan's say the world is going to end in 2012, just get a flatulent dog and a candle and wait for the end.

 

[AppalachianStan]

Stan, the Mayan's say the world is going to end in 2012, just get a flatulent dog and a candle and wait for the end.

LOL :lol:

 

[Troutchaser]

Stan,
It sounds like the common theme here is primary air and draft. You'll just have to thoroughly evaluate both and find the problem.
Hell, you can stick a 55 gallon drum in there and use it for a stove if you wanted. It just takes air to enter, a box for fuel, and something of a drafting exhaust. All the rest is bells and whistles.
Nothing wrong with your stove other than one of those two things. We all have an opinion on which it is. You'll have to tear into it.

 

[AppalachianStan]

Sorry guy for resisting your suggestions just trying to keep warm until I can get a new stove.

 

[pip3398]

Let me make sure I am right on the #1 thing BeGreen Said is buy a new wood stove. Is this true?
If yes this is true. Then I should stop worrying about my old wood stove and just wait on the new one. YES?

Stan, To get straight on what I was saying, I agree with BeGreen that you need a new non cat stove, but if the fire won't burn with things wide open you likely have no draft. A new stove won't fix that.

 

[AppalachianStan]

Stan,
It sounds like the common theme here is primary air and draft. You'll just have to thoroughly evaluate both and find the problem.
Hell, you can stick a 55 gallon drum in there and use it for a stove if you wanted. It just takes air to enter, a box for fuel, and something of a drafting exhaust. All the rest is bells and whistles.
Nothing wrong with your stove other than one of those two things. We all have an opinion on which it is. You'll have to tear into it.

1.)I have taking it apart the stove is clean out so the stove should draw in the air.
2.) I need to see if the chimney cap is clean.
3.) Most everyone has said I need more chimney. "Do the chimney test" but then I was told do not do the test it would not help.
4.) I have made sure the wood is dry to the best of my abilities with the test to the face, hitting them together and ask the friend who I got it from.
5.) Still have to get a MM.
6.) Tried 2x4s no luck
7.) Tried ECO brick no luck
8.) Put new gaskets in made the draft worse.
9.)Get the cats or get a new wood stove.
10.) I have a 120 year old drafty house.

So what well it hurt if I try the chimney test to see if that will help or not?

 

[AppalachianStan]

I know I am hard headed but I am going to try the chimney pipe test to see if that helps. until I can get a new stove this one will have to do.

 

[oldspark]

You have nothing to lose except a few dollars.

 

[Stephen in SoKY]

Stan, Remember, we fight for our draft down here more than folks do up north. All draft boils down to is colder outside than in and especially until we get really cold in January that's easier to get up north. Our chimneys have to be nearly perfect to draw well. That usually means extra height, furnace cement in the joints and insulated class-A helps as well. I am NOT calling your wood green, but with the lazy draft we have, even moderate moisture will lead to creosote. I suspect you're going to find your cap screen plugged nearly full. Me, I never run a screen, but that's your decision. I strongly encourage you to work on your chimney height as I'm all too familiar with lazy draft and what effects it has on solid fuel heaters. When you can't get a roaring fire with kiln dried pine (2X4) and the door cracked, then there's a stoppage somewhere up the chimney.

 

[Todd]

If the cap is clogged and your wood isn't as dry as you think, try burning your system without the cap. Draft should improve without a cap anyways from what I've found. Some people just use the cap in the summer months to keep the critters and rain out then take it off for the burning season.

 

[AppalachianStan]

Guys are you saying that my chimney cap has a screen in it, or are you calling my chimney cap a screen?
I hear the word screen I think of the stuff a screen door is made with. I do not have a screen mesh metal like stuff on my cap. I got the black stove pipe to do the test with. Now just need to get it up there.

 

[Stephen in SoKY]

From the factory all chimney caps I've seen have 1/4" hardware cloth around them. I think the proper name is spark arrester. That's the cap screen we're talking about. On Simpson it was about 4-5 inches high, placed between the actual cap and the base that attaches to the last section of triple wall.

 

[AppalachianStan]

From the factory all chimney caps I've seen have 1/4" hardware cloth around them. I think the proper name is spark arrester. That's the cap screen we're talking about. On Simpson it was about 4-5 inches high, placed between the actual cap and the base that attaches to the last section of triple wall.

I do not remember anything like that in the cap, but when I can get it down I will get a before and after photos of it.