installation

[terrywillie]

Good morning,
This is my first post here, thanks for the info I got just reading before my purchase. My knowledge of terms is limited, and if this is the wrong place to ask my question "tell me where to go.
I am going to have an insert installed by the seller into a block and brick fireplace / chimney. His plan is to stick a short piece of flexible flue into the chimney, after removing the damper. My questions are: 1. while this saves me $$ is it the best approach? 2. The chimney will not be sealed around this tube at the bottom, won't this allow cold air to flow into the room at times, and warm air to be sucked out?
Thanks,
Terry / LetItBurn

 

[katman]

I think the space around the pipe should be blocked off or else you will have air travel up/down the chimney. As for is this the best approach, it is frequently done this way. My preference is to continue the pipe up to the top of the chimney. Makes for better draught and is easier to clean. Plus, you can seal at the top of the chimney.

 

[Jags]

The "Best" way is to run a full liner, but many have gotten away without it. You should probably have a lower block off plate installed for the exact reason you questioned. (and insulated)

 

[begreen]

Good morning,
This is my first post here, thanks for the info I got just reading before my purchase. My knowledge of terms is limited, and if this is the wrong place to ask my question "tell me where to go.
I am going to have an insert installed by the seller into a block and brick fireplace / chimney. His plan is to stick a short piece of flexible flue into the chimney, after removing the damper. My questions are: 1. while this saves me $$ is it the best approach? 2. The chimney will not be sealed around this tube at the bottom, won't this allow cold air to flow into the room at times, and warm air to be sucked out?
Thanks,
Terry / LetItBurn

The seller is trying to slam the stove in. You are correct and I believe the stove must have a damper block-off plate with this approach. Otherwise there is also risk of it downdrafting as the chimney cools. If there are still coals burning this can be a source of CO getting into the house.

You'd be much better off with a full liner. The stove will work better and the flue will be much easier to clean.

 

[Todd]

Get a full liner unless your chimney is the same diameter as your stove exhaust collar. Not only will it draft and burn better, but it will be easier to sweep and you won't have to pull the stove out every time you do.

 

[terrywillie]

Thank you all,
It sounds like a full liner is the best approach.....what the heck it's only money........... The seller did make the comment that there will be a slight "dogleg" and that it would be easer to clean if the insert was pulled out. Is this comment questionable?
LetItBurn

 

[begreen]

What insert are you getting installed? some can be cleaned from the top down by removing the baffle and secondary chamber or manifold.

 

[terrywillie]

Sorry for delay,
I have ordered a Pacific Energy "Pacific"/Medium insert. I must admit I have become a little concerned since this mornings conversations. If his installation is so much "blue smoke" what about his product?
Terry

 

[begreen]

You've selected a first rate product, no worrys there mate. And it is one of the stoves that you can easily remove the secondary chamber for cleaning.

Now you'll need to decide whether the installer is just trying to be competitive or really doesn't like the "hassle and time" to do the job right. If that is so, find another PE dealer or maybe install it yourself.

 

[terrywillie]

BeGreen,
Thanks for the thumbs up on the pacific. I thought I had done my homework but I have made a mistake, or maybe even two, in my life
My installation is in a 30 year old "heatalator" type fireplace with vents on the sides in the brick. In addition to what I would call a plate "baffle" that closes the flue, there is a plate shelf before you get to the clay tile chimney. I get the impression that he (dealer/installer really does not want to deal with that any more than he has to.
I had originally wanted the larger unit but decided to pass because I would have to cut out part of the plate in the back of the fireplace. Reason being I already have two or three projects going and the "better half" aka the "boss" might get a little rigid if I start yet another. If I need to I can get the "Sawzal" or the cutting torches out and remove that stuff. I think the plan now is to remove the "Baffle" and snake around the shelf.
Please advise what would be the BEST approach to this installation, I only want to do it once.

Terry - LetItBurn


"I have realized in our country that one class of men makes war and leaves another to fight it out."
General William Tecumseh Sherman - 1868

 

[gpcollen1]

You can operate that stove with just the jumper pipe going past the damper [that baffle plate you described] and into the flue. I had my stove installed that way for the first year. Your draft WILL NOT be as good as it should be and you are really just not doing it RIGHT the FIRST time. In addition, you will need to pull everything apart for cleaning/sweeping every year.

If you install a liner [and a block off plate of some kind] you WILL get better draft, better burns and have an easier time cleaning the system.

I had to do the same thin as you. I removed the damper and used a Sawzall to cut part of the metal shelf out - enough to be able to get the flexible liner through. I have an offset flue so it was a little work to get that pipe just right but it works just fine. A block off plate is recommended.

And you may want to stuff some insulation down the heatilator openings when not burning because all it does is throw cold air...