Installing Damper on Insert

[EJL923]

So Ive been contemplating the best way to fix my overdraft situation, as shown in this thread. https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/fixing-too-much-draft.92784/

Ive decided to go with adding a damper, directly above the outlet. I should have just enough room. I ordered this pre-assembled damper section. I do know i will have to fabricate something to rotate the damper, but i have a few ideas on that, there is some space above the surround. Im hoping i only have to adjust it to a point where the stove acts normal, lowering the draft just enough.



I had my local shop install the liner, so i don't know how the flex liner is going to react when it is trimmed. Any tips? Will it unravel? Was the bottom part where it connects to the stove originally a cut edge? Im sure you see what kind of info im looking for. It looks like i will have to trim about 4" off the bottom of the flex. Anyone else install a damper on an insert?

All help and experiences are appreciated.

 

[etiger2007]

Would you have to remove it everytime you want to do a good cleaning?

 

[EJL923]

I don't think so, i should be able to reach a wire brush up that far from inside the stove

 

[mellow]

Just remember once you trim that liner there is no going back, you will need a good pair of aviation snips to do the job correctly. The problem is adapting the flex liner to that damper that is made for rigid pipe, hence why the guy put the damper inside his flex pipe. You will also be going to black single wall which is not an approved insert chimney material.

Maybe try putting a smaller chimney cap on before doing this to see if that helps?

 

[EJL923]

I will still be using the adapter that came with the flex pipe, which connects to the stove, that should be the same size as rigid pipe shouldn't it?. Also, what counts as being chimney pipe? The damper piece will not be enclosed in the flue, but sitting just above the stove. Hopefully some experts will chime in here

 

[mellow]

I will still be using the adapter that came with the flex pipe, which connects to the stove, that should be the same size as rigid pipe shouldn't it?.

The appliance adapter is made for connecting flex liner to the stove, not ment for connecting to a rigid liner device.

Also, what counts as being chimney pipe?

Anything that is connected to the stove that is being used to exhaust smoke/gasses, with inserts this has to be stainless steel (like your current setup)

The damper piece will not be enclosed in the flue, but sitting just above the stove.

That is where most dampers are, you need access to it.

 

[EJL923]

Is that a rule for inserts, it has to be stainless? It sits behind a surround, but is not yet inside a flue until it hits the block off plate. I could be wrong, but there is stove pipe and chimney pipe. As many wood stoves use stove pipe until it transitions into a flue or through a wall. adding a restriction to the cap i think is asking for creosote accumulation. There has to be a solution to fix overdraft such as this damper. If not, Jotul should refund me for the stove, which of course would never ever happen. So lets not get into that.

 

[PLAYS WITH FIRE]

If it were me I would disconnect the liner and push it up if possible, put in the damper then trim from the top. Maybe you won't even need to trim at all?

So Ive been contemplating the best way to fix my overdraft situation, as shown in this thread. https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/fixing-too-much-draft.92784/

Ive decided to go with adding a damper, directly above the outlet. I should have just enough room. I ordered this pre-assembled damper section. I do know i will have to fabricate something to rotate the damper, but i have a few ideas on that, there is some space above the surround. Im hoping i only have to adjust it to a point where the stove acts normal, lowering the draft just enough.
View attachment 80155View attachment 80156


I had my local shop install the liner, so i don't know how the flex liner is going to react when it is trimmed. Any tips? Will it unravel? Was the bottom part where it connects to the stove originally a cut edge? Im sure you see what kind of info im looking for. It looks like i will have to trim about 4" off the bottom of the flex. Anyone else install a damper on an insert?

All help and experiences are appreciated.

 

[mellow]

4 inches is a lot, flex doesn't flex that much. You ever tried pushing flex up?

 

[PLAYS WITH FIRE]

Just this past weekend actually.. I installed an insert into a fireplace. Loosen the breeze clamp that holds the liner to the metal chimney cap someone pull the top and wiggle a little from bottom. We had to do this because this was a used insert not something bought for the size. We had about 3" of clearance area to get the stove collar in, P. I. THE A.!

Mind you this was 12"x12" tc

 

[mellow]

You had it pretty good, a friend on top helping and a big terracotta flue. Hopefully the OP would have the same.

 

[EJL923]

I could do either way, but Mellow has me thinking about putting the damper section in that area. To me, its ok, but someone with more expertise on the matter. I always follow code, so i need to get that hammered out.

 

[Dakotas Dad]

If you have access to the secondary air holes, what I did, since I have 26' of triple wall in a warm chase, was to make some block off plates, and useing a couple rare earth magnets, blocked off part of those holes on the bottom of my stove. Took a couple adjustments to feel "right".. but have not had to mess with them since. Whole lot easier than adding a damper.

 

[EJL923]

That was my other plan. The problem is i need to make it adjustable, from the front. It cannot be accessed while in place as the intake is in the rear. Cant even put a magnet or anything in there without pulling out the stove. So if i do pull it, i need to make it adjustable from the front, because i dont want to pull it again.