Insulated Steel Chimney - Install myself?

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joecool85 said:
SteveKG said:
The Selkirk does not come with a screen. They sell a screen separately that one can buy and install oneself, if wanted.

Ah ha! So cleaning from the bottom in this case should be fine I would imagine.


Yep. The screen wraps around the side of the cap, nestled in against that middle strap of metal. In other words, it is wrapped around the side, vertically. It does not block the pipe. I just put one on a cap a couple months ago.
 
:Make sure that the stove pipe to chimney connector piece is the type that is about 16" to 18" long and is the type that the stove pipe
slides over and set the stove pipe about 1/2 the distance that way when you are ready to clean remove the screws that holds the stove
pipe to the stove collar and slid pipe up the connector then take one section of pipe off the bottom then you can slide the rest down off the connector
and then put plastic trash bag on the cleaner rod and insert cleaner rod into small hole that you have put in to bottom of bag have someone
hold top of bag around connector the bag will collect the creosote ( to check chimney remove pipe from stove collar and slid the pipe up
and hold mirror under pipe to inspect chimney
 
joecool85 said:
Carbon_Liberator said:
Hopefully some people who have experience with bottom cleaning will chime in here on that, I always clean from the top and simply remove the cap and clean it with a wire brush.

The wife doesn't like me on the roof anyway. Couple that with a 10' tall chimney and I don't see her (or me) being happy lol.
It'll be tough installing that chimney without spending some time on the roof. ;-)
 
Carbon_Liberator said:
It'll be tough installing that chimney without spending some time on the roof. ;-)

lol, it sure would be. She said she was ok with that as long as I had someone else help me (makes her sick to her stomach when I get up there). So, as a one time "honey, I have to so I can install the chimney" thing, that's ok. But as a once or twice yearly thing...probably not so much.

Glad it looks like cleaning it from the bottom is pretty doable. Now we're trying to decide if we want to do it as a corner install with the stove coming out at a 45 degree angle or in the corner parallel with the wall. Looks like without wall protection the 45 degree angle is going to be our best bet.
 
Ok, getting all my parts together and I noticed in the installation manual it says to use a roof brace kit for every 4' of chimney coming out of the roof. I'm going to have about 10' from where it comes out to the top of the chimney. Will it be ok to use only one roof brace and just put it maybe 6' up on the chimney from where it comes out, or should I really purchase and install another chimney brace and have one at the 4' mark and one at the 8' mark?
 
Joe, I would not feel comfortable with only one brace for 10' of pipe. Of course you can also take into consideration what is the strongest wind that has been in your area. Really strong winds? Definitely more bracing is better than less.
 
Yeah, not crazy amounts of winds here in Central Maine but every 3-4 years we'll have a storm with 70mph winds or so. I was thinking I'd just do it right and have the 2 braces like they recommend, but wanted extra input just in case that was really overkill for most situations or something. You guys always have good insight.
 
Code requires a brace for every 5' of pipe. 10' is a tall stick, brace it well. If this is low on the roof, consider adding a snow diverting cricket too.
 
BeGreen said:
Code requires a brace for every 5' of pipe. 10' is a tall stick, brace it well. If this is low on the roof, consider adding a snow diverting cricket too.

It is low on the roof, however it is an asphalt shingle roof and snow doesn't move even despite the 45 degree angle. Pain in the butt actually since I have to clean it off myself now. One of these days I'll get a metal roof and at that point a snow scoot would make sense.
 
BeGreen said:
Code requires a brace for every 5' of pipe. 10' is a tall stick, brace it well. If this is low on the roof, consider adding a snow diverting cricket too.

so every 5 foot above roof surface needs a brace?
 
greythorn3 said:
BeGreen said:
Code requires a brace for every 5' of pipe. 10' is a tall stick, brace it well. If this is low on the roof, consider adding a snow diverting cricket too.

so every 5 foot above roof surface needs a brace?

Sounds like. Recommended by the manufacturer is for every 4ft above the where it comes out of the roof it needs a brace and you can have 4' on top without a brace. So, for an 11' chimney you would need 2 braces. 12' you would still need only two and you would have 4' above the last brace. For 12' and 1" you would need 3 braces and there would be all of 1" above the last brace.
 
well im in the same boat on doing the install myself
the only thing im worried about is the roof leaking, and cutting the hole in the metal roof.

other than that i dont think it will be to bad.
just finish my hearth up with title. came out pretty good need so trim around the edges.

so good luck. i dont think it will be to bad like the others have said. take your time and stop if you get in a jam.
 
Lynch said:
well im in the same boat on doing the install myself
the only thing im worried about is the roof leaking, and cutting the hole in the metal roof.

other than that i dont think it will be to bad.
just finish my hearth up with title. came out pretty good need so trim around the edges.

so good luck. i dont think it will be to bad like the others have said. take your time and stop if you get in a jam.

Luckily I have a friend who has done this before that will be helping me and his doesn't leak so that's a good sign :)
 
Lynch said:
well im in the same boat on doing the install myself
the only thing im worried about is the roof leaking, and cutting the hole in the metal roof.

other than that i dont think it will be to bad.
just finish my hearth up with title. came out pretty good need so trim around the edges.

so good luck. i dont think it will be to bad like the others have said. take your time and stop if you get in a jam.
If you have concerns about it leaking you could contact a roofing company, explain to them what you're doing and that you need someone to do the flashing work being as you're not a roofer...it might cost you a little $$$ but then again you should have a good flashing job done.

Ed
 
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