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Jotul Natural gas trouble shooting

Post in 'It's a Gas!' started by bcoranato, Dec 14, 2012.

  1. bcoranato

    bcoranato New Member

    Joined:
    Dec 14, 2012
    Messages:
    2
    I have a Natural Gas Jotul Allagash stove. The burner kept going out - now I can't even get it lit. since I replaced the Thermapile/Thermacopler pilot assembly. My problem didn't go away. The burner still won't light. Any suggestions? The place where I purchased the stove (About 6 years ago). Told me to try cleaning the gas burner - maybe the tube is dirtly. Being that the unit was operating fine up to two nights ago - if it was all of a sudden dirty with spider webs, etc. wouldn't the stove have to be off for a while? Also - do I need to remove the tube to clean it or can I some how run pipe cleaners through it while still in the unit?

    Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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  2. Heatsource

    Heatsource Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Dec 19, 2011
    Messages:
    784
    Loc:
    Northern CA
    so the pilot light is on, but the main burner wont light?
    what kind of mV are getting from the t-pile? with the on/off pilot knob in the pilot position you should get 350-750mV, optimal 4-500
    if getting proper voltage:
    I'd jumper the top and bottom terminal of the Nova sit valve to eliminate the switch/thermostat/remote
    if it doesn't fire up its time to test the valve-

    here is a guide i once uploaded with basic and advanced troubleshooting info
    http://woodheatstoves.com/images/Nova SIT 820 troubleshooting guide.pdf
  3. DAKSY

    DAKSY Patriot Guard Rider Staff Member

    Joined:
    Dec 2, 2008
    Messages:
    5,383
    Loc:
    Averill Park, NY, on Burden Lake II...
    Good stuff right there, Dave. It doesn't address the OP's question, tho...If your gas flow to the burner is impeded by the infamous Spider Web, the blockage is in the small tube behind the burner orifice. You will have to remove the burner tube or burner pan, depending on the generation of your GF 300 Allagash to access that. Either one will just lift off the orifice, IIRC... You will also have to remove the burner orifice. That requires a 1/2" or 13mm wrench or socket or a small Crescent wrench. Once it's off, take a look at the inside of that tube. You'll see a small white object that looks like a factory installed diaphragm. That's the spider's nest. Run a Q-Tip around the inside of the tube to remove the nest...Reverse your steps to reassemble, making sure the orifice is tight & the burner is aligned correctly. Also check the air shutter adjustment as you will probably knock it out of whack, especially on the newer burner pans...Good luck & HTH...
  4. bcoranato

    bcoranato New Member

    Joined:
    Dec 14, 2012
    Messages:
    2
    Thank you both for your advise. Actually - I accidently figured out the problem - It was the three wires that run from the switch on the back of the stove to the control valve unit. They are wrapped in a heat/thermal cover and I guess over time the heat still did damage to the wires and caused the insulation and the wiring to basically deteriorate to the point where the wires were broken inside. I replaced the three wires (which cost me under $3) and the stove works perfectly again. Thanks again

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