Little Buck and confusion on setup

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wheeling365

New Member
Nov 25, 2013
3
PA
Recently picked up a Little Buck 26000 for in my place as in insert to help offset the cost of oil. I found the user manual on line and have read it. I don't have the cash for a full liner this year so I have been trying to figure out what I need for a direct connect. I also want to make sure the stove will provide enough heat before I invest a bunch of cash for poor results.

I know I need some kind of 3 1/2 x14 adapter to come off the stove but they all seem to convert to 8" round. The issue becomes that my flue above the smoke chamber is 7x13 so I don't see shoving 8" round into it as an option. Its my understanding that going down in size isn't always a good thing since it can cause issues with the stove.

I'm sure I'm not the first one to have this issue. I've tried searching on here and calling a few local sweeps as well as visiting a local stove store. I don't know what search terms to use to find what I need as I'm still new to this. It seems like unless I want to drop a bunch of cash on a new stove and a full liner nobody local wants to be very forthcoming with info about options.

So I guess what I am asking is what options do I really have to do a direct connect with this?
 
I don't know if they can still be found, but I had an oval adapter on mine, direct vented with a blockoff plate and 4 ft of flex liner. It worked great, even though my chimney is only 13 ft. Make sure all the gaskets have a good seal and it should burn pretty well. Slowing down the fan motor noticeably extended my burn time.
 
Thank you for the sources. It looks like its time to do some reading. I see a possible new issue after looking at the adapter. I measured from the flue opening to the back edge of the trim panel. Its about 4.5". The thickness of the wall inside the top of the firebox is something like 4 to 4.25 thick. It looks like I am going to have issues with the adapter and need to cut the damper.

Is it acceptable to just mark the spot that needs cut out and have at it with a grinder, sawzall, plasma cutter etc... To remove that spot or should just plan to take the entire damper out?
 
Just remember, once you cut that thing there is no going back. If you are ok with that then start with the smallest amount needed. I used a sawzall and grinder on mine.

Just think about this, if this is just a project to test if this works then why not get a newer insert and make it worth your time, you shouldn't need to cut out as large of a chunk for a newer insert with a 6" liner.
 
I thought about a newer insert but between the cost of one and that I really like the fact that this one can do wood or coal if neeeded. I don't plan to use it with coal until I would have a full liner done. I also have no intention of using the original fireplace because its just not very efficient.


I might look into having a local shop build the stack adapter so I can get it more centered into the opening so I don't have to cut as much out of the fixed damper side.
 
I thought about a newer insert but between the cost of one and that I really like the fact that this one can do wood or coal if neeeded. I don't plan to use it with coal until I would have a full liner done. I also have no intention of using the original fireplace because its just not very efficient.


I might look into having a local shop build the stack adapter so I can get it more centered into the opening so I don't have to cut as much out of the fixed damper side.
My son and I both custom made our stack adapters. I reduced to 7 inch for my Buck 26000 and it drafts great at only about 13 feet of flue. My son's 27000 had to be reduced to 6 inch and it is a tall chimney in the center of a 2 story house and does fine after start up. A little sluggish to begin with. If you google Buck 26000 you will find lots of reading.
 
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