Lopi Leyden vs Jotul Oslo

[Haybale]

I am looking to buy a new wood stove to replace a very old Federal Airtight.

I have it narrowed down to the Lopi Leyden and the Jotul Oslo but having trouble deciding between the two. I like the idea of the top loading Lopi but also worry about smoke leakage while loading. I have not read many bad things at all about the Jotul so am leaning towards that.

I live in upstate NY and would be heating a 1500 sq ft one story home with a fairly open floor plan. Stove is basically in the middle of the home.

Any benefits from one to the other other then personal preference?

 

[summit]

can't go wrong w/ the oslo. Leyden is nice, and if you open the damper before you try to top load, you should not get smoke back... but the inside of the leyden is cast refractory, while the insides of the oslo are iron and brick; much more durable. both will give you a similar burn, out put and efficiency. also: no fragile secondary burn chamber to clean out in the oslo, and the glass stays cleaner on the oslo as well.

 

[Haybale]

Thanks....as I said I have not found much negative about the Oslo yet.

 

[DBoon]

I have friends who have the Leyden - they love it. They don't have smoke problems (she's asthmatic, so if it smoked, it wouldn't get used).

 

[jdinspector]

I researched both of those stoves before I made my final decision. They're both very nice. I've seen both in operation. If wood consumption is an issue, then I think the Leyden would win hands down (use less wood). However, I have a negative feeling for stoves with bypass dampers from past experience with a Vermont Castings unit. The Jotul doesn't have a lot of levers, so would likely be simpler and less prone to breaking parts. I also believe that the Leyden is a little bigger capacity (cubic feet firebox). After waffling back and forth, I think I'd lean towards the Leyden, as it's made in the USA.

 

[jdinspector]

Follow up... Don't be concerned about smoke entry due to top loading. They've got that figured out. As long as you open the bypass, you won't have a problem.

 

[grommal]

I researched both of those stoves before I made my final decision. They're both very nice. I've seen both in operation. If wood consumption is an issue, then I think the Leyden would win hands down (use less wood). However, I have a negative feeling for stoves with bypass dampers from past experience with a Vermont Castings unit. The Jotul doesn't have a lot of levers, so would likely be simpler and less prone to breaking parts. I also believe that the Leyden is a little bigger capacity (cubic feet firebox). After waffling back and forth, I think I'd lean towards the Leyden, as it's made in the USA.

Why do you say that the Leyden would win "hands down" on wood consumption? I didn't think the secondary burn chamber design was generally regarded as being more efficient than air tubes in the main firebox.

 

[firefighterjake]

From what I've read here on reviews and real world users I think you would not go wrong with either choice.

I cannot speak specifically to the Leyden (except to say I have heard many folks like Lopis), but I can say the only real drawback I have found with the Oslo (after one year) is that there is quite a bit of ash that builds up in the front so when you open the front door it invariably spills on to the hearth . . . for me a very minor issue, but an issue nonetheless worth noting. On the plus size, wicked easy to run, good sized ash pan (and functional) and most important of all -- good heat.

 

[Haybale]

I would be using the side door to load the oslo so would not be too concerned about ash build up at the front door.

Anyone else agree that the Leyden would win the wood consumption battle?

 

[summit]

I would be using the side door to load the oslo so would not be too concerned about ash build up at the front door.

Anyone else agree that the Leyden would win the wood consumption battle?

no, in fact i think you'll find that the oslo may burn a little (hr or so) longer.

 

[jdinspector]

I realize that manufacturer's claims for burn times may overstate the real world results, but Lopi claims 12 hours and Jotul claims 9 hours burn time. When I was researching these stoves, I spoke with several dealers, several actual users, and read every review on this forum. All seem to point at the fact that the Lopi can and does burn 12 hours on a load. The firebox on both is about 2 cubic feet (2.3 on Lopi, Jotul doesn't say in their manual). I have to infer from the similar firebox size and the longer burns that the Lopi would use less wood.

Perhaps "hands down" is a little excessive, but it's my belief that it will use a noticeably less amount of wood. Hope I'm not steering someone wrong here. I like both stoves and they were both at the top of my list for quite some time. I probably would have bought one of them, but Woodstock struck while the iron was hot and I bought one of theirs.

 

[grommal]

I realize that manufacturer's claims for burn times may overstate the real world results, but Lopi claims 12 hours and Jotul claims 9 hours burn time. When I was researching these stoves, I spoke with several dealers, several actual users, and read every review on this forum. All seem to point at the fact that the Lopi can and does burn 12 hours on a load. The firebox on both is about 2 cubic feet (2.3 on Lopi, Jotul doesn't say in their manual). I have to infer from the similar firebox size and the longer burns that the Lopi would use less wood.

Perhaps "hands down" is a little excessive, but it's my belief that it will use a noticeably less amount of wood. Hope I'm not steering someone wrong here. I like both stoves and they were both at the top of my list for quite some time. I probably would have bought one of them, but Woodstock struck while the iron was hot and I bought one of theirs.

Burn time comparisons are tough unless it's the same person burning the same wood. Different species of wood, with different moisture content, split to different sizes, and loaded with different spacing, will all give different results. On top of that, everybody has a different opinion of what constitutes burn time, or a successful overnight burn. Some folks consider the clock still ticking if there are enough coals left to coax a fire back to life without resorting to newspaper and matches. Others don't consider the burn still going unless the stovetop is still 300F+ or even higher. There's no way to know what criteria were used by Lopi, Jotul, or most burn time reports you read. I only had the opportunity to burn our Jotul with a semi-full (maybe 80%) load of wood twice overnight before I shut it down for the season. Both times, at 9 hours, there was still a giant coal bed and a 300F stovetop temperature (as indicated on my 23 year old surface thermometer, so no claims to accuracy!). To me, that's a really solid 9 hour burn, and I think I would have still considered it "running" at 10 or maybe 11 hours, but on both occasions I maxed the input air in the morning to burn out the fire before the outdoor temperature rose too much.

If the Jotul and the Lopi both have equal firebox size, and both stoves are loaded with the same charge, and both stoves are fired to the same BTU output (implying the same rate of combustion), then both stoves will run for the same length of time. The only way it could be significantly different is if the two stoves lose very different amounts of heat up the flue, and I doubt if there's much difference there.

It's possible with the top loading feature of the Lopi that you can pack more wood in there if you have the right mix of split sizes. I used to have a top-loading VC, and I could pack it right up to the underside of the griddle, tight against all sides of the firebox and the andirons, if I had just the right pieces of wood. If there's a difference between the Lopi and the Jotul, maybe that's it, but what that really means is that they have different effective firebox capacities.

 

[jdinspector]

If there's a difference between the Lopi and the Jotul, maybe that's it, but what that really means is that they have different effective firebox capacities.[/quote]

I agree, that would be the difference. I'll have to defer to someone who has operated the stove. Your description of 9 hour burn with 300F surface temps is an "all night burn" in my book. Great stove. Please don't think I was knocking the Jotul. Heck, they've been building stoves for what, 250 years? I'd say they know what they're doing.

 

[Haybale]

So basically what I am hearing is that you can't really go wrong with either stove. I guess it will come down to which one the wife likes the looks of better and the deal we can get...as always

 

[jdinspector]

So basically what I am hearing is that you can't really go wrong with either stove. I guess it will come down to which one the wife likes the looks of better and the deal we can get...as always

Of course it will come down to what your wife wants! In my world, that's the way it works with everything, and I'm OK with that (most of the time). Good luck with your new stove.

 

[Haybale]

One local dealer has a used Lopi Leyden for 1700. They claim that the previous owner only used the stove once or twice before they passed away and the store took the stove back. I have not seen the stove yet but does that sound like a reasonable price for the stove if the claim is true? Stove does not have a blower and is in the black cast finish. Said I can still get the tax credit on it too.

 

[mikepinto65]

So basically what I am hearing is that you can't really go wrong with either stove. I guess it will come down to which one the wife likes the looks of better and the deal we can get...as always

Of course it will come down to what your wife wants! In my world, that's the way it works with everything, and I'm OK with that (most of the time). Good luck with your new stove.

LOL makes life a lot easier! I think your going to love either of your choices no matter which comes out of it.

 

[mikepinto65]

One local dealer has a used Lopi Leyden for 1700. They claim that the previous owner only used the stove once or twice before they passed away and the store took the stove back. I have not seen the stove yet but does that sound like a reasonable price for the stove if the claim is true? Stove does not have a blower and is in the black cast finish. Said I can still get the tax credit on it too.

Used stoves dont qualify....unless the dealer is going to be tricky and ring up the sale as a new unit I dont think it will happen. I might be wrong, but it seems that would be a gray area.

 

[Haybale]

Good point. I will have to check on that.

 

[ansehnlich1]

Man this here is a tough call. I have the oslo, so I'm partial to that, haha. But I'd sure love to try that lopi out for a season or two.

That top loading is schweet, I had that in the old VC Defiant, no smoke exits the top while loading.

Boils down to what they already said here....

which does you wife like the best,

 

[FWWARDEN]

Theses are the two stoves I considered as well, I went with the Oslo for the following reason. My dealer carried both models, I went back and forth looking at the two. Although I liked the look of the Lopi better, if the Lopi was an APC, the Oslo was a tank. There's just that much more iron. It cost me about four hundred bucks more, but for a twenty year investment that's peanuts. And altough JDINSPECTOR says Lopi is built in the US, they are cast in China.

 

[Haybale]

Follow up question. Wood burning season is drawing near. My wood is all stacked in the shed ready to go just need to get the stove...I am replacing an old no name wood stove in our house. Really torn between the Oslo and the Leyden. I have been reading bad things about the downdraft technology of the leyden and reports that it takes a lot of attention to get it burning properly. Is this true? I don't mind playing with the stove but when my wife is using it she will just want to load it and forget it. Which stove is "easier" to operate or is that basically a wash as well?

 

[begreen]

The Oslo is much easier operate with a single control. Inside, there's a lot less parts to wear out and replace over the long haul.

 

[branchburner]

I have a Harman, which is the same downdraft technology as the Leyden. I got mine used, only 1 year old, and then found out the afterburner was shot, a $300 piece. I have doubts about the longevity of that piece. Don't get a used Leyden unless you pull that piece and inspect it - if it's toasted, the stove has been overfired.

Top loading is nice, and my stove also has a grill option (a clincher for me), but it does require a longer learning curve more babysitting. Close your bypass too soon, the stove runs smoky; close it late, the stove overheats. Plus the afterburner throws the heat to the back of the stove, and doesn't offer as pretty a view as a stove with secondary flames up front. So while I love this stove, I will be going with burn tubes next time. I suggest the Oslo. No doubt an easier stove to run.

 

[firefighterjake]

Follow up question. Wood burning season is drawing near. My wood is all stacked in the shed ready to go just need to get the stove...I am replacing an old no name wood stove in our house. Really torn between the Oslo and the Leyden. I have been reading bad things about the downdraft technology of the leyden and reports that it takes a lot of attention to get it burning properly. Is this true? I don't mind playing with the stove but when my wife is using it she will just want to load it and forget it. Which stove is "easier" to operate or is that basically a wash as well?

I can only speak to the Oslo, not the Leyden . . . the Oslo is very easy to run and operate. About the only two issues is that a) ash tends to drop out of the front door fairly easily and b) when you first get it going you may need to keep the door ajar until the stove gets up to operating temps.

For a new fire I leave the door ajar (and attended) until it reaches X temp, then shut the door . . . once the temp climbs up to Y I begin shutting the primary air until the temps are holding strong without causing the fire to start smoking (usually just a dite more than all the way closed). For reloading the fire . . . open up the door, place in wood, adjust the primary air as needed . . . often adjusting the air is not necessary.

Maintaining this stove is also easy . . . empty the ashes every week or so . . . clean the glass when needed . . . check and sweep the chimney as needed. Pretty much bullet-proof from what I can tell.

Last words of wisdom . . . not that it means a whole lot . . . but sometimes (OK, oftentimes) my wife has the Oslo running as good, if not better, than myself . . . it's very nice to wake up to a nice fire in secondary combustion (she works overnight and on the day before she stays up all night to "switch" over.) So, in terms of ease to operate . . . very easy . . . so simple even a dumb firefighter like me can run it.