Lopi Revere Damper Stuck Shut

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GeeWizMan

Member
Hearth Supporter
Nov 29, 2006
103
Suburbs west of Detroit
We're having a damper slider problem with our Lopi Revere that's about four years old now. In the last week or so, the damper has been stuck shut when we attempt to reload the stove. My husband is able to muscle it open after many, many, many attempts. This morning, I am unable to slide it open.

We burn from Nov. through March. We light a fire at 7pm and reload at about 4-6 am. We still have lots of hot coals (the fan is still running) so the fire starts right up. It burns down through the day and by 7pm the coals are almost all gone. We get good burns this year with 2-year-old wood. We shut the stove down at 600 degrees and get a secondary burn that hovers around 500-600 degrees, sometimes for several hours.

Is this a known problem with this stove? Does it sound like a warped damper plate or creosote buildup?
 
I've not had this happen, but mine is a bit noisy when slid open and closed. I'm curious if others will chime in with this issue... And wow on your burn time! I don't get that with mine - if I closed it down all the way the fire would go out.
 
Have you checked to see if there is an obstruction? Perhaps the rear baffle brick got bumped up and is blocking it?

Let the stove go out. Then remove the baffle bricks for access and clean them. Clean out the area in front and behind the damper thoroughly. Test its action for smoothness. Then replace the baffle and check again for smooth operation of the damper.
 
Are you refering to the air control damper that adjusts air into the stove or the bypass damper for reloading? the bypass damper is a simple set up, with generous amounts of play in it, the air control slide is a tight fit and prone to getting sticky if warped or has build up on it. I dont have the revere, neighbor does and his was real hard to move untill we fully cleaned it, lubed it with high temp lube.
 
I've seen the bypass damper yoke/rod become slightly warped on a Liberty, causing the bypass to become very difficult to operate.
 
This is not totally uncommon, and it does not mean a broken part (although it may get this way if you continue to force it). The damper plate is a flat peice of steel w/ 2 cups welded onto it open end up. The damper rod itself has a fork on the end that points downwards into these cups. The base of the cups gets small amounts of flyash and soot into them over time, and, since the assembly is not welded closed, this stuff packs its way underneath the forks and gradually forces them upwrds, untill the rod rubs against the top of the area it rides in, eventually making it stick.. Take apart the damper, scrape out the bottom of the cups, and it'll work like new.
 
The damper plate might not be the only problem. I have had to replace the frame that the damper plate slides in. They are very cheaply made and mine actually burnt out and warped. I redesigned the thing to make it last longer and what a difference!

Love those Lopi stoves..........

Craig
 
Thanks you guys for all the suggestions. We have our installer/repairman/cleaner come mid-burning season (end of Jan.) to clean the chimney because in the past is has built up creosote. I'm going to print these posts and show them to him. I haven't had a day as bad Monday, but I've been reloading when the stove is cooler. Again, thanks for all the suggestions!
 
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