Mansfield vs Blazeking King

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Yeah they do actually. I just added a 15x18 addition to my existing living room and was subject to all current PA building codes and the inspector told me they were fine as long as they were panned off, they couldn't be open all the way along the joists inside

Well that's interesting and good to hear all is good with that situation.
I don't really have anything to add except for whatever your decision is I hope it works put great for you.[/quote]

This is going to vary from state to state. Sometimes even from county to county. Some require sleeves with fusible link dampers between floor to act as a firestop. Check with your local inspecting authority.
 
What I think is that a tube stove puts out more heat(just secondary's firing) at idle then a cat stove.
I also think that if you need to run a lot of flame in a stove to heat a house the tube stove is the stove to do it in..no worries about damaging a cat due to flame impingement.(sp?)

But yes you're on track with my thinking.

I should add that a cat stove is great if it can hold house temps with a 300-400 stove top because that is where the stove top will be in cruise most of the time.
If you have to run a cat stove with a considerable amount of flame a lot of the time to keep your house warm it is my opinion that you would be better off with tube secondary's.
With a larger amount of air going through a cat stove it will not burn as clean as a tube stove either..these are just my observations on checking out diff stoves and watching the chimneys.

I read through these posts again and was wondering what the stove tops cruised at on the Mansfield stoves?

I just checked mine on my stovetop of the dutchwest and it's at like 350 and that's where it is a lot of the time cause it never burns right. Only once a day maybe.

Question remains if 300-400 stovetop would be adequate to het the house then I guess.
 
I read through these posts again and was wondering what the stove tops cruised at on the Mansfield stoves?

I just checked mine on my stovetop of the dutchwest and it's at like 350 and that's where it is a lot of the time cause it never burns right. Only once a day maybe.

Question remains if 300-400 stovetop would be adequate to het the house then I guess.

Well if you run the King with a little more air..not much,say 2.25 or so on the t stat and it will do the job.
You can adjust it so it will still get 12 hour burns with a higher stove top temp and have plenty of coals and even some wood left for a easy reload.
When you started the thread I thought the stove was going in a unfinished basement.
 
Well if you run the King with a little more air..not much,say 2.25 or so on the t stat and it will do the job.
You can adjust it so it will still get 12 hour burns with a higher stove top temp and have plenty of coals and even some wood left for a easy reload.
When you started the thread I thought the stove was going in a unfinished basement.

Oh ok sorry about that sir. The basement is finished all the way around. Do u know what type of temps the soapstone stoves cruise at on average? Would I be better off with the king running steady heat vs the swings of the tube stove?
 
Oh ok sorry about that sir. The basemant is finished all the way around. Do u know what type of temps the soapstone stoves cruise at on average? Would I be better off with the king running steady heat vs the swings of the tube stove?
Youwould be much better off with steady output of a cat stove vs. the up and downs of a noncat.

My hearthstone had a redline teml of 600 but cruised at around 350 on average. You had to work hard to get it over500 but when you did it really made the heat.
 
A stove with a lot of mass doesn't end up swinging the room temp a whole lot. That is the beauty of them. When burning 24/7 our house temp varies in the hall around the corner from the T6 varies about 2 degrees all day long no matter what stage of the burn we are in. Even the living room temps are quite even. That's one of the first things we noticed when we switched from the Castine.
 
Ours cruises where ever we need it to.. It's about adjusting the air, like any stove. If I don't need it to run real hot, which is the norm when we have "normal winter temps" I will let the top get around 400-450, air it down to almost completely closed, to closed fully, and it will settle around 400, run there for a few hours, then start slowly dropping off, and that keeps her warm. Usually a load up at 8am, and again at 10 pm or so. (and by "her warm" I mean the Mrs., and she doesn't want the house below 70). If it's teens out, a bit more air, maybe 25-30%, will usually keep it running hotter, and the house warm, but need to reload 3 times a day or so. Down around zero, we have to run about 75% air open, reload every 6 hours or so. Luckily, (in normal years) we don't see much of that. When it's COLD out we reload at a 300F top or so, again, during normal outside temps, 200-225F. Get much below that and quick ignition is sketchy..
 
Youwould be much better off with steady output of a cat stove vs. the up and downs of a noncat.

My hearthstone had a redline teml of 600 but cruised at around 350 on average. You had to work hard to get it over500 but when you did it really made the heat.

We haven't had any trouble getting the Manny up to any temp we wanted, but we have a much larger firebox then you had with yours, almost a full cuft, or 50%, and are able to burn well seasoned hard woods 100% of the time.. and you ain't kidding about the heat, you get 600lbs of rock up to 550-600 degrees... it's pretty impressive.

As far as I know, all Hearthstones have the "600F Top temp" advice from the factory. But as stated.. don't really think there would ever be a reason to need to go much above that. I have once or twice, and it's HOT. My sister's Oslo has been 750 with me in the room next to it.. and it's somehow different, 750 on it didn't seem near as hot as 550 on ours.. Can't explain it. Just had to be felt. At 600F or so, our house temp was rising a degree every 10 minutes or less, high teens outside.
 
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