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Posted By charly,
Sep 24, 2012 at 2:03 PM
You should be good to go on that front.
You should be fine, then. You can go the extra step (I didn't get the name 'Overkill' for nothing) by screwing down some metal lath on top of the cement board, putting down a scratchcoat of mortar, and adhering the brick to that. If you go that route, you won't have any problems at all.
You really want to go overkill? Go scratch coat as Scotty said and then use a scarifier to create "keys". The buttered bricks will bond like superglue.
That's EXACTLY what I use, Jags!
Hehehe - go figure.
I assume if I use lath, the scratch coat has to dry for 24 hrs?
Yeah, its best to let it dry at least 24 hrs. That's how I do it, anyway.
Took a scrap piece of Durock, bought some thin-set. Troweled the thin-set onto the board after letting it sit for 15 minutes like the bag said, after mixing it. Buttered the board, went over it with a 1/4 notched trowel , held at 90 degrees. Then applied some bricks dry onto the board and buttered the back of two others. Did that yesterday, today,,,, I can't get any of them loose. All held great! So the hearth pad will move on today, let it dry for 48 hours and then get the mortar bag out for the joints. I believe the thin-set has an adhesive added.
That's great news! I can't wait to see the hearth. Make sure to post pictures of the project!
Good news. I thought that might work. Thanks for the update and good luck with the hearth!
Scotty and BeGreen, I'll keep ya posted. Thanks for all the feed back!..........Charlie
Laid the used brick this afternoon. This time using thin-set. Said right on the box of bricks to use thin-set, wish I used that the first time. Just leaving it alone for two days, then mortar the joints. Used homemade 5/8ths joint spacer for the first row across the back. The rest I just did by eye, just free handing it. Thought it would have a more rustic look. Whoops, should have started in the middle to line the pad stone with the stone on the wall. No big deal, once the stove is in place it will all go away, only I will see it.
Thanks a lot Begreen. First time building a hearth pad. Learn by doing. Checked the bricks this morning, glued down solid to the Durock, used Polymer Modified Thin-Set . Just misted the board with water then buttered it to my lay out lines each time and a quarter inch notched trowel. Nothing on the bricks, just grabbed them and rocked them into position. Made for a clean job. Going to trim it out in a stained wood.
Any reason I can't use thin-set to fill my joints over mortar? The Thin-Set seems a lot stronger then the S mortar I used the on the first lay out.
BG was very helpful when I built my hearth with lots of good info. I would suggest using a Laticrete thinset made for mounting the brick to a wall.. I had good luck with their products but you need to get the good stuff at a tile store as I found Lowes and HD don't carry the good stuff..I used the 254 Platinum which was top of the line and while it was overkill and a bit expensive I only wanted to do this once. I used the best of everything but got an amazing deal on the porcelain tile and the hearth still cost me round $300.00 for everything!
I used red oak trim around my hearth as it is much more durable than a softwood. Keep up the good work! I bought the red oak at Lowes and while much more $$ than pine still set me back only around $35.00. It was a good decision as it has held up well so far.
Yes I did use thin-set with a polymer. A minute after my stone was done I couldn't move them. Great stuff. Stone place gave me S mortar to use the first time,only 50% of the stone held the first time. Should have looked at the brick box closer, said right on there to use Thin-set. Live and learn , it's all good now. Just have to fill the joints. Going to put my trim wood on next , put blue tape on the wood as to not get any joint material on the wood, then I can fill any gaps right up to the wood. Yes I too have about 400 into mine but it's bigger then you could buy and will give me extra roof and over minimums around the stove. Plus I did it myself. Next time I want to build something I'll already have some experience under my belt. A stepping stone of sorts. Again, thanks to all that replied, I appreciate it. The Hearth is such a nice place to come and learn. Can't imagine all the money people must have saved each other on here by getting a heads first before making a bad move.
I suggest you do your joints 1st then add the wood. I did mine this way and I also stained the wood and applied coats of poly before finishing the grout to the wood. After your wood work is sealed and dry apply the blue tape then do your grout, wipe any excess grout and your wood will look fine. At least mine looked good following this process.
Ray, are saying do your joints but stay away from the outer edges until the wood is on?
I can only say the wood trim was done after the tiles were done on my hearth. The wood was added later then stained and poly'd. Once this was dry I used blue tape on the sealed wood then grouted from the tile to the wood. The tape kinda worked but I just damp sponged the grout off the wood and it cleaned right off.. I added pics so you can see what worked for me..
I'm curious why the debate never came up regarding combustibility/fireproof rating when using thinset vs Type S mortar in a Hearth. I don't see any problem using thinset (which contains modified latex), but after years reading numerous posts claiming Hardibacker was no good because it contained cellulose (even though it was rated "non-combustible"), I'm surprised nobody mentions issues with thinset. Just wondering....??
Finished up my hearth pad build,,,,,finally. I kept mixing and the wife worked the mortar bag. Let us make time. Wondering if I should seal the mortar work or not? If I do will the sealant be considered a combustible? Next,,,, setting the Fireview.
It's looking great. Did you wipe it down with a muriatic acid wash?
This is a dry area so I would consider sealing optional. If you seal with a silicone compound it's non-combustible. Your call.