1. Welcome Hearth.com Guests and Visitors - Please enjoy our forums!
    Hearth.com GOLD Sponsors who help bring the site content to you:
    Hearthstone Soapstone and Cast-Iron stoves( Wood, Gas or Pellet Stoves and Inserts)
    Caluwe - Passion for Fire and Water ( Pellet and Wood Hydronic and Space Heating)

My hearth mortar job was a failure,,,,Uggg!

Post in 'The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces' started by charly, Sep 24, 2012.

  1. Jags

    Jags Moderate Moderator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Aug 2, 2006
    Messages:
    14,766
    Loc:
    Northern IL
    You should be good to go on that front.

    Helpful Sponsor Ads!





  2. ScotO

    ScotO Guest

    You should be fine, then. You can go the extra step (I didn't get the name 'Overkill' for nothing) by screwing down some metal lath on top of the cement board, putting down a scratchcoat of mortar, and adhering the brick to that. If you go that route, you won't have any problems at all.
  3. Jags

    Jags Moderate Moderator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Aug 2, 2006
    Messages:
    14,766
    Loc:
    Northern IL
    You really want to go overkill? Go scratch coat as Scotty said and then use a scarifier to create "keys". The buttered bricks will bond like superglue.
    Scarifier.jpg
    ScotO likes this.
  4. ScotO

    ScotO Guest

    That's EXACTLY what I use, Jags!
  5. Jags

    Jags Moderate Moderator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Aug 2, 2006
    Messages:
    14,766
    Loc:
    Northern IL
    Hehehe - go figure.;)
    ScotO likes this.
  6. charly

    charly Guest

    I assume if I use lath, the scratch coat has to dry for 24 hrs?
  7. ScotO

    ScotO Guest

    Yeah, its best to let it dry at least 24 hrs. That's how I do it, anyway.
  8. charly

    charly Guest

    Took a scrap piece of Durock, bought some thin-set. Troweled the thin-set onto the board after letting it sit for 15 minutes like the bag said, after mixing it. Buttered the board, went over it with a 1/4 notched trowel , held at 90 degrees. Then applied some bricks dry onto the board and buttered the back of two others. Did that yesterday, today,,,, I can't get any of them loose. All held great! So the hearth pad will move on today, let it dry for 48 hours and then get the mortar bag out for the joints. I believe the thin-set has an adhesive added.
    ScotO likes this.
  9. ScotO

    ScotO Guest

    That's great news! I can't wait to see the hearth. Make sure to post pictures of the project!
  10. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Nov 18, 2005
    Messages:
    46,743
    Loc:
    South Puget Sound, WA
    Good news. I thought that might work. Thanks for the update and good luck with the hearth!
  11. charly

    charly Guest

    Scotty and BeGreen, I'll keep ya posted. Thanks for all the feed back!..........Charlie
    ScotO likes this.
  12. charly

    charly Guest

    Laid the used brick this afternoon. This time using thin-set. Said right on the box of bricks to use thin-set, wish I used that the first time. Just leaving it alone for two days, then mortar the joints. Used homemade 5/8ths joint spacer for the first row across the back. The rest I just did by eye, just free handing it. Thought it would have a more rustic look. Whoops, should have started in the middle to line the pad stone with the stone on the wall. No big deal, once the stove is in place it will all go away, only I will see it;).

    000_0272.JPG
  13. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Nov 18, 2005
    Messages:
    46,743
    Loc:
    South Puget Sound, WA
    Lookin' Good!
  14. charly

    charly Guest

    Thanks a lot Begreen. First time building a hearth pad. Learn by doing. Checked the bricks this morning, glued down solid to the Durock, used Polymer Modified Thin-Set . Just misted the board with water then buttered it to my lay out lines each time and a quarter inch notched trowel. Nothing on the bricks, just grabbed them and rocked them into position. Made for a clean job. Going to trim it out in a stained wood.
    ScotO likes this.
  15. charly

    charly Guest

    Any reason I can't use thin-set to fill my joints over mortar? The Thin-Set seems a lot stronger then the S mortar I used the on the first lay out.
  16. raybonz

    raybonz Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Feb 5, 2008
    Messages:
    6,205
    Loc:
    Carver, MA.
    BG was very helpful when I built my hearth with lots of good info. I would suggest using a Laticrete thinset made for mounting the brick to a wall.. I had good luck with their products but you need to get the good stuff at a tile store as I found Lowes and HD don't carry the good stuff..I used the 254 Platinum which was top of the line and while it was overkill and a bit expensive I only wanted to do this once. I used the best of everything but got an amazing deal on the porcelain tile and the hearth still cost me round $300.00 for everything!

    http://www.laticrete.com/contractors/products/thin_set_mortars_adhesives/thin_bed_mortar.aspx

    Good Luck!

    Ray
  17. raybonz

    raybonz Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Feb 5, 2008
    Messages:
    6,205
    Loc:
    Carver, MA.
    I used red oak trim around my hearth as it is much more durable than a softwood. Keep up the good work! :) I bought the red oak at Lowes and while much more $$ than pine still set me back only around $35.00. It was a good decision as it has held up well so far.

    Ray
  18. charly

    charly Guest

    Yes I did use thin-set with a polymer. A minute after my stone was done I couldn't move them. Great stuff. Stone place gave me S mortar to use the first time,only 50% of the stone held the first time. Should have looked at the brick box closer, said right on there to use Thin-set. Live and learn , it's all good now. Just have to fill the joints. Going to put my trim wood on next , put blue tape on the wood as to not get any joint material on the wood, then I can fill any gaps right up to the wood. Yes I too have about 400 into mine but it's bigger then you could buy and will give me extra roof and over minimums around the stove. Plus I did it myself. Next time I want to build something I'll already have some experience under my belt. A stepping stone of sorts. Again, thanks to all that replied, I appreciate it. The Hearth is such a nice place to come and learn. Can't imagine all the money people must have saved each other on here by getting a heads first before making a bad move.
  19. raybonz

    raybonz Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Feb 5, 2008
    Messages:
    6,205
    Loc:
    Carver, MA.
    I suggest you do your joints 1st then add the wood. I did mine this way and I also stained the wood and applied coats of poly before finishing the grout to the wood. After your wood work is sealed and dry apply the blue tape then do your grout, wipe any excess grout and your wood will look fine. At least mine looked good following this process.

    Ray
  20. charly

    charly Guest

    Ray, are saying do your joints but stay away from the outer edges until the wood is on?
  21. raybonz

    raybonz Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Feb 5, 2008
    Messages:
    6,205
    Loc:
    Carver, MA.
    I can only say the wood trim was done after the tiles were done on my hearth. The wood was added later then stained and poly'd. Once this was dry I used blue tape on the sealed wood then grouted from the tile to the wood. The tape kinda worked but I just damp sponged the grout off the wood and it cleaned right off.. I added pics so you can see what worked for me..

    Ray

    Attached Files:

    Billybonfire likes this.
  22. fire_man

    fire_man Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Feb 6, 2009
    Messages:
    1,459
    Loc:
    Eastern Ma
    I'm curious why the debate never came up regarding combustibility/fireproof rating when using thinset vs Type S mortar in a Hearth. I don't see any problem using thinset (which contains modified latex), but after years reading numerous posts claiming Hardibacker was no good because it contained cellulose (even though it was rated "non-combustible"), I'm surprised nobody mentions issues with thinset. Just wondering....??
  23. charly

    charly Guest

    Gotcha!
  24. charly

    charly Guest

    Finished up my hearth pad build,,,,,finally. I kept mixing and the wife worked the mortar bag. Let us make time. Wondering if I should seal the mortar work or not? If I do will the sealant be considered a combustible? Next,,,, setting the Fireview.

    000_0303.JPG 000_0302.JPG 000_0304.JPG
    dylskee and Billybonfire like this.
  25. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Nov 18, 2005
    Messages:
    46,743
    Loc:
    South Puget Sound, WA
    It's looking great. Did you wipe it down with a muriatic acid wash?

    This is a dry area so I would consider sealing optional. If you seal with a silicone compound it's non-combustible. Your call.
    raybonz likes this.

Share This Page