New 2 sided Supreme Duet

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Thanks, that's an interesting thought...

Yes, the fireplace is in a large open area that also has a cathedral ceiling.

To get to the bedroom the warm air will have to travel through a foyer and 2 doors,
and resist the temptation to go to the bathroom on the way:) We'll see...
 
It does presume the BR doors are left open or have vent grilles installed in them.
 
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Add me to the list of people considering retrofitting my existing gas see-through fireplace (that never gets used) with the Duet. I have a 3400SF split-level ranch, looking to heat main floor primarily (no basement). Fireplace is in wall between living and dining room, and centrally located in the overall floor plan. Current heat is propane forced air (killing me in the winter) and I have a ton of pinon pine on my property that badly needs thinned. Not looking for 100% heating from wood, but would be nice to get at least 50% from it. Heating ducts run through crawl space, return air through attic; both spaces fairly accessible for retro and/or new work. I already have several cords that have dried for a few years, so I think they're dry enough, but not sure pinon will work decently in this stove at all?

My two main question's; 1) does it sound like my situation would work with the Duet, and 2) does anyone know anything about this company and/or their units: http://www.acucraft.com/products/see-through-fireplaces/. They are about the only other reasonable-looking option I can find other than the Duet.

Thanks!
 
Well, my Duet installation project is supposed to start a week from today. Will let you know how it goes:)

Looks like we are in similar situations both architecturally and in terms of fuel. I also have a bunch of
conifers I want to use. Other discussions on the net indicate they should work fine if dried properly,
just will not generate as much heat per load as hardwood due to less weight.

I have considered Acucraft and talked to them - turned out none of their see-through products are
EPA-certified, which is a hard requirement for the town I am in. So Duet was the *ONLY* choice.
 
Thanks Cranberry. I will be following any posts of your project! My area doesn't have any requirements, but I do wonder what it means that Acucraft is not certified. I really like the look of their products, and they've at least been around a while, but it would seem if they could get their units certified they would. Wish I could find some independent reviews of their products.
 
My guess would be that some companies just don't want to go through the bureaucratic hassle (and expense) of dealing with the government,
just like many firearms manufacturers don't bother trying to put their products on the California approved list even if they have all the required
features. I don't think Acucraft products are inferior (although I don't have any first-hand experience with them).
 
How is the glass on both sides? I'd like to know if the glass on one side or the other gets carboned up or not? Thank you. I'm looking into the duet or their galaxy. My wife is worried that the double glass might get carbon on one side. For me I want heating efficiency and being able to heat for a longer time and not have to keep reloading every hour

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If you burn hot it will stay clear but when you let it burn down overnight expect to have to clean the glass in the morning if you want that see through ambience. Furthermore if any of the wood touches the glass while burning it will produce black smudges and enough of those will block your view. Cleaning is however simple. The soot is water soluble and will come up with a rough-sided sponge. A dab of easy-off on some stubborn spots will save you some scrubbing. Search for my review on the supreme duet. I haven't figure out how to set and forget for 4 hours since the stove will run too hot if you load it up. My experience is that I have to throw in a log every hour or so when it gets cold.
Add me to the list of people considering retrofitting my existing gas see-through fireplace (that never gets used) with the Duet. I have a 3400SF split-level ranch, looking to heat main floor primarily (no basement). Fireplace is in wall between living and dining room, and centrally located in the overall floor plan. Current heat is propane forced air (killing me in the winter) and I have a ton of pinon pine on my property that badly needs thinned. Not looking for 100% heating from wood, but would be nice to get at least 50% from it. Heating ducts run through crawl space, return air through attic; both spaces fairly accessible for retro and/or new work. I already have several cords that have dried for a few years, so I think they're dry enough, but not sure pinon will work decently in this stove at all?

My two main question's; 1) does it sound like my situation would work with the Duet, and 2) does anyone know anything about this company and/or their units: http://www.acucraft.com/products/see-through-fireplaces/. They are about the only other reasonable-looking option I can find other than the Duet.

Thanks!
I have one of these an have been running it full time for a few months now. I posted a review, search for Supreme Duet.
 
Good to see this thread still alive! I got her ripping tonight with some 2 year Seasons White Oak and Beach! 121 degree air pumping into the bedrooms upstairs! Going down to negative 11 tonight here in Jersey, 73 inside right now 67 upstairs! No boiler!
 

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How is the glass on both sides? I'd like to know if the glass on one side or the other gets carboned up or not? Thank you. I'm looking into the duet or their galaxy. My wife is worried that the double glass might get carbon on one side. For me I want heating efficiency and being able to heat for a longer time and not have to keep reloading every hour

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The glass will stay clean on both sides as long as you are burning well seasoned hot wood, you might get a little light gray please once in awhile wipes off with a paper towel .. from what I have noticed if you are burning crap wood the glass will black up. Once you burn good wood and hot it will clean right off. On average I am seeing around 6 hour Burns maybe stretch it to seven or eight once in awhile. Nights like tonight stuffing her every 2 hours but keeping the house cozy he at 73!
 
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I just received my supreme duet and got it unloaded at the house... When I originally saw your write up, I thought you had taken the 8 inch insulated that come off the top of the unit and added inline fans to spread the hot air. I had spoken with a lady from supreme and she was saying not to do it that way but to buy their 6 inch add-on pipe with fan that goes into the sides. When I'm looking at the unit it looks like they are all interconnected anyways in the jacketing. I have a 3800 sqft house I'm building that is 2 story. I'm trying to design the duet to heat all the bed rooms upstairs. Now I'm thinking if I should have the 8” dump into like a collection can with a grate to pickup extra house air going through a filter to not pull too much heat from the stove? And do also the two 6 inch ducts with fans to help get the heat moved also? Any input from your professional insight is appreciated. I'm having my friend that works as a mechanical contractor helping me get this installed. Thank you

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Good to see this thread still alive! I got her ripping tonight with some 2 year Seasons White Oak and Beach! 121 degree air pumping into the bedrooms upstairs! Going down to negative 11 tonight here in Jersey, 73 inside right now 67 upstairs! No boiler!
Thanks for reporting back, Chum.

Your Install sets the high mark for diy projects. Hell, it sets the high mark for pro work! Really enjoyed your story and outcome.
 
I just received my supreme duet and got it unloaded at the house... When I originally saw your write up, I thought you had taken the 8 inch insulated that come off the top of the unit and added inline fans to spread the hot air. I had spoken with a lady from supreme and she was saying not to do it that way but to buy their 6 inch add-on pipe with fan that goes into the sides. When I'm looking at the unit it looks like they are all interconnected anyways in the jacketing. I have a 3800 sqft house I'm building that is 2 story. I'm trying to design the duet to heat all the bed rooms upstairs. Now I'm thinking if I should have the 8” dump into like a collection can with a grate to pickup extra house air going through a filter to not pull too much heat from the stove? And do also the two 6 inch ducts with fans to help get the heat moved also? Any input from your professional insight is appreciated. I'm having my friend that works as a mechanical contractor helping me get this installed. Thank you

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Not sure what the lay-out of your house and access for duct work to your second floor is? try to post a drawing of your layout and i might be able to shed some better insight to your install design..
 
Thanks for reporting back, Chum.

Your Install sets the high mark for diy projects. Hell, it sets the high mark for pro work! Really enjoyed your story and outcome.

Thanks!! glad to see some others finding inspiration in this thread! It was a large undertaking and alot of thought and hours (and beer) went into getting it the way i envisioned it. But, its cold days and night's like the one's that we are experiencing now that makes it all worth it!
 
I'm thinking of having the hot air go to the attic space then either have all the hot air combine into a collection can like the HVAC then run individual runs to each bedroom and have it blow from the ceiling. It would be a separate system from the HVAC. Or I could split each run from the duet into a couple rooms.
ThanksView attachment 219823View attachment 219824

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Looking at your layout your best bet is to have the (2) 8'' gravity vents feed the first floor. (1) dumped into the living room / dining room area and the other dump into the family room / kitchen area.. As far as the (2) 6'' additional power ducts i would run one into the master bedroom and the other into bed room #1.. your pretty much out of options to get ducted heat to bedroom 2,3,and 4.. you will loose way too much heat trying to get it there, by the time it gets there it would be cooled off.. you have a little too much square feet to try and spread it out and still have it be efficient. I would try to avoid running the ducts in the addict if you can try to keep them in the walls / 1st floor ceiling would be better, even know you insulate them depending how your addict is insulated you will loose alot of heat out of your ducts running them up there if they are installed above your addict insulation and sitting in the cold. If you do run them up there insulate them heavily.

If you can make the ceiling on the first floor from the family room and the living room transition flat right into the foyer area that will help by gravity get alot of the heat from the first floor up through your open foyer and into the hall way up stairs.. hope this helps!

I'm not sure how you are designing your regular house HVAC system but if i were you i would have the second floor be on its own system and locate your return air duct in the ceiling of the second hallway right outside bedroom #1. you could also have the (2) 6'' power ducts run up to the second floor and dump into the hall way at this location..That way all the heat that rises up your foyer area will be captured by the return air grill.. Then you would run your 2nd floor HVAC system in ''fan only" and that would disperse the heat generated from the duet evenly through your HVAC system into the bedrooms.
 
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Looking at your layout your best bet is to have the (2) 8'' gravity vents feed the first floor. (1) dumped into the living room / dining room area and the other dump into the family room / kitchen area.. As far as the (2) 6'' additional power ducts i would run one into the master bedroom and the other into bed room #1.. your pretty much out of options to get ducted heat to bedroom 2,3,and 4.. you will loose way too much heat trying to get it there, by the time it gets there it would be cooled off.. you have a little too much square feet to try and spread it out and still have it be efficient. I would try to avoid running the ducts in the addict if you can try to keep them in the walls / 1st floor ceiling would be better, even know you insulate them depending how your addict is insulated you will loose alot of heat out of your ducts running them up there if they are installed above your addict insulation and sitting in the cold. If you do run them up there insulate them heavily.

If you can make the ceiling on the first floor from the family room and the living room transition flat right into the foyer area that will help by gravity get alot of the heat from the first floor up through your open foyer and into the hall way up stairs.. hope this helps!

I'm not sure how you are designing your regular house HVAC system but if i were you i would have the second floor be on its own system and locate your return air duct in the ceiling of the second hallway right outside bedroom #1. you could also have the (2) 6'' power ducts run up to the second floor and dump into the hall way at this location..That way all the heat that rises up your foyer area will be captured by the return air grill.. Then you would run your 2nd floor HVAC system in ''fan only" and that would disperse the heat generated from the duet evenly through your HVAC system into the bedrooms.
We are putting returns Right above the area where the fireplace/stove is at.. I was thinking of trying to steal all the heat coming off the stove via the 8 inch ducts and the 6 inch ones on the side and piping it to the bedrooms upstairs and the downstairs would just get the radiant heat. We are planning on doing either a foam/cellulose hybrid insulation or all foam. My brother-in-law has a Pacific energy fp25 in an unfinished basement that is around 1000 sqft and 3400 sqft on main floor. He only has 1 fan and 6" duct dumping air into living room and the squirrel cage fans blowing air in the basement, with the hybrid insulation they are able to keep the upstairs at 68-70 degrees... We might get temperatures below 20 maybe for 2 weeks out of the year. My HVAC ducts are right on top the ceiling so will be under the insulation. Thank you for your feedback too bad we are pioneers with this stove... I was hoping to use the 8" ducts the come off the stove to pipe them further.

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We are putting returns Right above the area where the fireplace/stove is at.. I was thinking of trying to steal all the heat coming off the stove via the 8 inch ducts and the 6 inch ones on the side and piping it to the bedrooms upstairs and the downstairs would just get the radiant heat. We are planning on doing either a foam/cellulose hybrid insulation or all foam. My brother-in-law has a Pacific energy fp25 in an unfinished basement that is around 1000 sqft and 3400 sqft on main floor. He only has 1 fan and 6" duct dumping air into living room and the squirrel cage fans blowing air in the basement, with the hybrid insulation they are able to keep the upstairs at 68-70 degrees... We might get temperatures below 20 maybe for 2 weeks out of the year. My HVAC ducts are right on top the ceiling so will be under the insulation. Thank you for your feedback too bad we are pioneers with this stove... I was hoping to use the 8" ducts the come off the stove to pipe them further.

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Are the returns above the fire place going to be for your 1st floor HVAC unit or your second floor system? when i did mine i installed my 1st floor return air on the end of the house the fire place is on and run my fan only on the hvac unit if it starts getting too hot over there.. it has helped to blend the hot air through the first floor, but does not raise the temp on the cold side of the house, it only helps maintain it.

Are you planing on trying to run the 8'' gravity duct to the bedrooms? i'm not sure the factory fans on the bottom of the unit are designed to push that much CFM that far? The 8'' ducts are designed to heat close to the unit, but i guess you could have them run straight up to the master bedroom?? you are going to sacrifice alot of your 1st floor heat by doing that though. Even though the unit itself puts out alot of radiant heat, most of the heat comes from those 8'' duct.. I run my factory fans on low most of the time and i'm usually seeing 160-190 degree air coming out of my custom steel grates on each side of the unit.. If i start getting the unit too hot i simply turn my fan speed up and it cools the unit down pretty quick..

Definitely spray foam is the way too go.. my house was built in the late 60's and when i remodeled i wish i went that route, i re-insulated where ever i could get to the best i could but my house is not the best.. i'm sure with today's codes and todays products it is a night and day difference. Good luck and post some pic's when you get going.
 
I have one of these an have been running it full time for a few months now. I posted a review, search for Supreme Duet.[/QUOTE]

Toastyboy...Where is your review on this unit? i would like to see how you like it..
 
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My plan now is to run the two 6" ducts to the master and bedroom closest to it the way you did. Then take two the 8" ducts and combine them into some kind of can or splitter where on the other end I'll have three 6" ducts. I don't know if I should go with two 8" duct boosters or three 6 inch boosters on thermostats. I was also thinking of doing like a splitter for one or two of the 8" with like a diverter for me to be able to dump a lot of the hot air downstairs then close it and let cold air go upstairs. I looked at the stove and the grates above the door also dump hot air off the supplied internal blowers so don't really know on that, but it wouldn't be hard to get one of those big grates with the shutters inside.
To answer your question on my HVAC. We are planning on a 5 ton unit with 16-17 seer heat pump I found a ding and dent online for the 17 at 4500 shipped. But it's for the whole house. So it wouldn't be too efficient at spreading the heat of the stove, but it would get it out of the stove room and do something I guess. Taking with some local fireplace centers and the old timers are saying with the new efficient insulation the houses don't have the air leaks to help move and spread the heat which means the stove rooms are scorching hot the rest of the house isn't unless the ceilings are on the same level and you get fans to help spread the heat around. So that return would help move the heat out of that room at least.
My question to you, I was reading in that manual and it seemed kind of vague. Does the whole framing around the stove need to be steel or a certain distance from it? Thanks

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My plan now is to run the two 6" ducts to the master and bedroom closest to it the way you did. Then take two the 8" ducts and combine them into some kind of can or splitter where on the other end I'll have three 6" ducts. I don't know if I should go with two 8" duct boosters or three 6 inch boosters on thermostats. I was also thinking of doing like a splitter for one or two of the 8" with like a diverter for me to be able to dump a lot of the hot air downstairs then close it and let cold air go upstairs. I looked at the stove and the grates above the door also dump hot air off the supplied internal blowers so don't really know on that, but it wouldn't be hard to get one of those big grates with the shutters inside.
To answer your question on my HVAC. We are planning on a 5 ton unit with 16-17 seer heat pump I found a ding and dent online for the 17 at 4500 shipped. But it's for the whole house. So it wouldn't be too efficient at spreading the heat of the stove, but it would get it out of the stove room and do something I guess. Taking with some local fireplace centers and the old timers are saying with the new efficient insulation the houses don't have the air leaks to help move and spread the heat which means the stove rooms are scorching hot the rest of the house isn't unless the ceilings are on the same level and you get fans to help spread the heat around. So that return would help move the heat out of that room at least.
My question to you, I was reading in that manual and it seemed kind of vague. Does the whole framing around the stove need to be steel or a certain distance from it? Thanks

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i cant remember and Not sure with out reading the manual about the clearance to combustibles for the framing.. i sat mine down on a piece of dur-rock and used metal studs for all my framing.. i do have structural wood 2x4 studs and a 2x10 header across the top because of the opening i made and top to support the roof.. i would say the wood is within 2' on each side. and my big hearth on the great room side is framed in wood because it holds up a piece of blue stone 2' x 9' x 2'' thick. guessing 600 pounds.. i also put a sheet of dur-rock on the interior framing behind the T.V to deflect any heat.. Generally it does not get too hot in the fire place chase.. As you can see i created closets on each side for access and storage.. I always mess around with the heat gun when i get her blazing as i can shoot the temp of the metal framing behind the fire place, ducts, flue and top and rarely see anything worth getting scared about.. the stone below the fireplace door witch sits on 2x6 wood framing will get up around 220 degree. im unsure what the temp of the wood under it is but so far so good!

As far as your HVAC goes i would strongly suggest going with 2 zones for the size house you have and how you are going to set up the fire place.. do 1 unit for 1st floor and 1 unit for second floor..
 
i cant remember and Not sure with out reading the manual about the clearance to combustibles for the framing.. i sat mine down on a piece of dur-rock and used metal studs for all my framing.. i do have structural wood 2x4 studs and a 2x10 header across the top because of the opening i made and top to support the roof.. i would say the wood is within 2' on each side. and my big hearth on the great room side is framed in wood because it holds up a piece of blue stone 2' x 9' x 2'' thick. guessing 600 pounds.. i also put a sheet of dur-rock on the interior framing behind the T.V to deflect any heat.. Generally it does not get too hot in the fire place chase.. As you can see i created closets on each side for access and storage.. I always mess around with the heat gun when i get her blazing as i can shoot the temp of the metal framing behind the fire place, ducts, flue and top and rarely see anything worth getting scared about.. the stone below the fireplace door witch sits on 2x6 wood framing will get up around 220 degree. im unsure what the temp of the wood under it is but so far so good!

As far as your HVAC goes i would strongly suggest going with 2 zones for the size house you have and how you are going to set up the fire place.. do 1 unit for 1st floor and 1 unit for second floor..
I'm thinking of maybe adding the dampers to make it a 2 zone system

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Also curious if anyone has used the grill part. I read in ToastyBoy's review that it creates a lot of smoke opening the door during a normal burn.

Has anyone used the Fresh Air Adapter to have the stove burn outside air instead of air from in the house.