New Lopi Endeavor

[cyclone]

Just installed my new Lopi Endeavor.

A few questions?

After my break in fires which I have one more and ready to start burning 24/7.......

From a cold start what temperature do you start to shut everything down for its secondary burn?

How long does it take for this process?

Where do you place the stove thermometers?

What kind of burns times are you getting from hardwoods, cherry, oak,, etc....

Any other information would be great..


Thanks

 

[Treacherous]

Just installed my new Lopi Endeavor.

From a cold start what temperature do you start to shut everything down for its secondary burn?

How long does it take for this process?

Where do you place the stove thermometers?

What kind of burns times are you getting from hardwoods, cherry, oak,, etc....


Thanks

-I usually start shutting down around 550-600 degrees

-Probably within the hour of startup

- I have one thermometer dead center an inch or two back from door. My flue thermometer for my double wall pipe is in pipe 19.5 inches above stove.

-Maple has left me a good coal bed 9 hours later.

 

[cyclone]

How about from a bed of coals how long does it take to get the stove rolling again where you shut everything down for a long burn?

 

[Pagey]

When I choose to close the bypass damper and begin backing down the air depends mainly on the wood species and the size of the load. With dry pine, I can close the bypass anywhere from about 250F to 350F on the stovetop and have active, secondary combustion right away. As long as the secondaries maintain themselves for a minute or so after shutting the bypass, I then close the primary air about 1/3 to 1/2.

If I am using a full load of oak, for example, I usually have to get the stovetop get to around 400F to 450F before I close the bypass and begin throttling back.

I've found the ash lip on the stove body and the "spring" on the air control make a good, general guide. Take a look at the "spring handle" on the control rod. The first 3 or 4 coils touch one another. Then the spring opens up into coils that have about a 1/2" gap or so between them. Standing over the ash lip on the stove, looking straight down, I push the rod in until the entire spring is visible when I make my first "real" adjustment to the secondaries (the first adjustment of closing the air 1/3 to 1/2 mention above is just to keep the stove from going nuclear with dry wood). Again, as long as the secondaries are still strong, my next adjustment is to push the 3 or 4 coils of the spring that physically touch one another "under" the ash lip, leaving only the "spaced" coils visible when looking down.

My final adjustment usually ends up pushing 2 or 3 of the "spaced" coils "under" the ash lip so they are no longer visible (again, this is standing over the ash lip looking straight down). You'll experiment and find the sweet spot with your stove. For example, you may be able to fully close the air control on your stove and still maintain active, visible combustion with no emissions. My stove simply refuses to do so, and I have to leave the control open about 1/4" to maintain a clean, active burn.

I make the above adjustments over a 15-20 minute period, depending on how the fire behaves. My stove likes to cruise anywhere from 600F to 700F during strong secondary combustion.

 

[Treacherous]

I'll let some of the other long time owners comment on that. I've only had my stove for about a month and so far I am more into getting my cabin heated back up versus extended burns since outside temps aren't quite cold enough here during the day and the Endeavor can get things pretty toasty in only 800 square feet.

 

[Treacherous]

Good tips. I am going to try your method out.

When I choose to close the bypass damper and begin backing down the air depends mainly on the wood species and the size of the load. With dry pine, I can close the bypass anywhere from about 250F to 350F on the stovetop and have active, secondary combustion right away. As long as the secondaries maintain themselves for a minute or so after shutting the bypass, I then close the primary air about 1/3 to 1/2.

If I am using a full load of oak, for example, I usually have to get the stovetop get to around 400F to 450F before I close the bypass and begin throttling back.

I've found the ash lip on the stove body and the "spring" on the air control make a good, general guide. Take a look at the "spring handle" on the control rod. The first 3 or 4 coils touch one another. Then the spring opens up into coils that have about a 1/2" gap or so between them. Standing over the ash lip on the stove, looking straight down, I push the rod in until the entire spring is visible when I make my first "real" adjustment to the secondaries (the first adjustment of closing the air 1/3 to 1/2 mention above is just to keep the stove from going nuclear with dry wood). Again, as long as the secondaries are still strong, my next adjustment is to push the 3 or 4 coils of the spring that physically touch one another "under" the ash lip, leaving only the "spaced" coils visible when looking down.

My final adjustment usually ends up pushing 2 or 3 of the "spaced" coils "under" the ash lip so they are no longer visible (again, this is standing over the ash lip looking straight down). You'll experiment and find the sweet spot with your stove. For example, you may be able to fully close the air control on your stove and still maintain active, visible combustion with no emissions. My stove simply refuses to do so, and I have to leave the control open about 1/4" to maintain a clean, active burn.

I make the above adjustments over a 15-20 minute period, depending on how the fire behaves. My stove likes to cruise anywhere from 600F to 700F during strong secondary combustion.

 

[Jack Straw]

I barely ever use the bypass. If I am having trouble getting things going or it seems smokey I open the bypass. Right now I am burning 2X4kd and I don't use it. The air adjustment is always different depending on what I burn and how much I put in. I think I may leave it open too much and I need to back it off more. You can get it too hot quite easily. Good Luck.

 

[Treacherous]

I barely ever use the bypass. If I am having trouble getting things going or it seems smokey I open the bypass. Right now I am burning 2X4kd and I don't use it. The air adjustment is always different depending on what I burn and how much I put in. I think I may leave it open too much and I need to back it off more. You can get it too hot quite easily. Good Luck.

I haven't really tried not using bypass. I'll see how things go as I burn more 24x7

 

[pugetsoundwa]

Am glad to have found this thread, i will be buying a Endeavor this week and am concerned as its my first ever wood stove. Wife grew up with old potbelly stoves. our home is 1250 sq feet Rambler, I just hope this isn't too big a stove. I don't really like the idea of a stove over 500 degrees but am sure I'll learn the ropes soon enough.

 

[Pagey]

Am glad to have found this thread, i will be buying a Endeavor this week and am concerned as its my first ever wood stove. Wife grew up with old potbelly stoves. our home is 1250 sq feet Rambler, I just hope this isn't too big a stove. I don't really like the idea of a stove over 500 degrees but am sure I'll learn the ropes soon enough.

You are getting a quality stove. Get the blower, too, if you really want to move the heat!

 

[Treacherous]

Am glad to have found this thread, i will be buying a Endeavor this week and am concerned as its my first ever wood stove. Wife grew up with old potbelly stoves. our home is 1250 sq feet Rambler, I just hope this isn't too big a stove. I don't really like the idea of a stove over 500 degrees but am sure I'll learn the ropes soon enough.

You are getting a quality stove. Get the blower, too, if you really want to move the heat!

+1

In addition you can always make a smaller fires for lower heat output.

Looks like Lopi is giving the blower upgrades away for free right now.

http://www.lopistoves.com/winter_sale/

 

[joefrompa]

I have the same basic firebox in my republic...had it for about a month now, burned for about 3 weeks. Assuming fairly dry wood, here are my responses:

From a cold start what temperature do you start to shut everything down for its secondary burn?

I close the damper (top adjustment) after about 20-30 minutes and usually 300 degrees. If its fast-burning softwood, I close it quickly. If its slower burning or seems to need more air (warmer outside temps), I close it half way. You'll notice alot more heat retention staying in and around the stove once this is closed.

I have also had alot of success waiting to 450 degrees before closing it - but the wood I've been burning doesn't seem to like to get that fast enough for my tastes.

Assuming dry wood and a good fire start, assume 30 minutes is fine to shut down the bypass and get good secondaries. Once you feel comfortable there, experiment.

For the air control - I've found my Lopi to be exceedingly TIGHT....meaning i can shut down a roaring fire simply by shutting the air control. So I leave my air control wide open until the fire is steady-state usually around 500 degrees...and then I close it in 1/4 increments. Remember though that YOUR draft helps dictate how much air is SUCKED into your stove....so my draft so far is a bit less than others, meaning I need to let the air control stay open to fuel it.

Where do you place the stove thermometers?

I placed mine back slightly to the left of the bypass-damper adjustment pull.

....


My biggest factors have been quality wood (obviously) and draft strength. Again, either my draft is weak OR my stove is super tight, but I have killed strong looking fires by simply closing the door sometimes (also a function of wood quality), and other times by closing the damper adjustment.

What Ive learned is to build a good solid fire with alot of kindling and small pieces, leave the door cracked open for 5-10 minutes, and usually the stove top will be at 250 degrees or so. Close the door and let it rise to 300-350 for another 5-10 minutes. Then add 2-5 medium sized pieces of either softwood or very dry hardwood - STOCK IT. Don't be afraid to build it up all the way, while allowing good air spaces. Remember alot of air comes through below the door, so leave that area open as well.

Let all that catch for a solid 5 minutes then either shut the damper or close it halfway and watch the temps rise. Now leave it alone until the small stuff is all coals on the bottom and the medium sized stuff has ben engulfed for awhile. Close the damper all the way, but don't open that door!

You should see it hitting 450-500 if you leave it be, easily. Possibly higher if you have good dry wood and you did a good job building it....its not too hard to get it to 600 within 30 minutes if you have the right wood and build it up right.

Once you see the temps start to DIP from that last build-up, you should wait for them to dip too around 400-450 and then you have a good bed of coals, alot of heat in there, and now alot of the wood has fired down. Add your bigger pieces now. They'll take 15 minutes or so to really fire up, but you'll start getting the really long lasting burns at this point. You can start closing your air down - use the air control to influence the length of your burn and the heat output and health of your fire - happy with your heat and health of your fire? Close it down a bit and you'll use less wood. Want more heat/build up your fire? Open it back up.

These are my takes...

 

[WOODplay]

I have had our 2010 LOPI Endeavor in for about 2 months now and LOVE IT I tell everyone that I know if we ever move that will be the first thing I put in our next house is a LOPT Endeavor.
I have a 1100 sq ft house and it heats the whole thing! I can get it up to 84 if I want too. I too was worried about it being to big for my house and I was told you can always run small hot fires and then when you need that extra heat on the zero degree days you have that ability with a Med stove. I'm glad I went with it. as you can tell my whole family likes it. My dog sleeps right in front of it.
The fan is a must. It pushes heat all the way back to our bedrooms.

The 2010 LOPI Endeavor ROCKS!

 

[WOODplay]

Just installed my new Lopi Endeavor.

A few questions?

After my break in fires which I have one more and ready to start burning 24/7.......

You asked... From a cold start what temperature do you start to shut everything down for its secondary burn?
I have it around 250 or 300.

You asked... How long does it take for this process?
I start my fire and leave the door cracked open with the bypass open for the first 15 to 30 min. Then shut the door and the bypass.

You asked... Where do you place the stove thermometers?
I have mine dead center on the lower step 1/2" twards the front, from the step on the top of the stove.

You asked... What kind of burns times are you getting from hardwoods, cherry, oak,, etc....
Depending on the wood but for the most part oak, ash and some pallet wood.
For every log I can get around 1 hour to 1-1/2 burn time at 500+ F


You asked...Any other information would be great..
Yes when building the fire use the tunnel idea. It works really well with this stove.
-First lay two logs N/S with an air gap about 6" wide.
-Fill air gap with crumpled up news paper.
-next lay your kenneling on top of those two logs E/W like.
-Then lay about 3 logs on top of those going E/W as well.
-Most of the time I don't even open the bypass
-Then light the newspaper and leave the door cracked open for about 15 to 30 minutes.
-After it gets going shut the door and start to regulate the air back when you see the temps up around 550 or so.

Good luck!






Thanks

 

[WidowMaker]

I'll let some of the other long time owners comment on that. I've only had my stove for about a month and so far I am more into getting my cabin heated back up versus extended burns since outside temps aren't quite cold enough here during the day and the Endeavor can get things pretty toasty in only 800 square feet.

Holy over kill Batman

 

[Treacherous]

I'll let some of the other long time owners comment on that. I've only had my stove for about a month and so far I am more into getting my cabin heated back up versus extended burns since outside temps aren't quite cold enough here during the day and the Endeavor can get things pretty toasty in only 800 square feet.

Holy over kill Batman

Not really this time of year. I'm looking at my remote weather station/temp monitor right now and temps in cabin are at about 39 degrees. I need all the BTU's I can get when I need to warm her up.

Cabin can be pretty drafty at times as well.

 

[joefrompa]

Owning this stove's firebox, I tend to agree.

 

[madrone]

Am glad to have found this thread, i will be buying a Endeavor this week and am concerned as its my first ever wood stove. Wife grew up with old potbelly stoves. our home is 1250 sq feet Rambler, I just hope this isn't too big a stove. I don't really like the idea of a stove over 500 degrees but am sure I'll learn the ropes soon enough.

My house is the same size, and the stove's a good match. In warmer weather I add less wood and/or let the fire go out. In a nasty cold snap you'll be glad to have a firebox that size for overnight burns. You will get used to running the stove that hot, it's what they were designed for. Dry wood and a hot stove are the key to clean, efficient burns. Watch the videos on the Lopi site, they're pretty good.