New pellet stove installed -- smokey

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whiskeyrichard

New Member
Dec 12, 2006
60
I got my new pellet stove installed. I took the advice I got here and ran a flex liner up my existing chimney. It was cheap and easy to do. My chimey is about 20 feet tall.

I got everything all ziped up and "lit" her up today. Upon initail startup of the stove, I get a lot of smoke out of the joints on the 90 degree elbows. The smoke comes out f the joints that are manufactured into the elbow. You know, where they can twist.

I am sure this is not normal, but the in the stuff I have read, it never says that you have to tape the joints on all this pipe. I am using simpson duravent pipe.

Now I assume that I need to tape all these joints to make this thing not smoke. Is there a particular kind of tape that you guys recommend?

As usual, thanks for the all the info. It's amazing how much easier this site has made my life over that last few months.

Thanks again
WR
 
We used hi temp rtv silicone on the inside of all the joints
and never had any smoke from day one.
Also using Simpon Duravent but no 90 degree elbow in
my setup.

I know 3M makes aluminum tape as I saw it at
the hardware store before. I don't know if
it can withstand the heat but then again
the pipes on a pellet stove aren't very hot
at all.
Can't hurt to go check it out anyway.
I know I have heard of people taping the joints
but can't recall if it was here or another forum.
 
I am not following yet. Why wasn't the flex run all the way to the stove connection? Ideally, it should be one continous run from chimney cap to stove.
 
BeGreen said:
I am not following yet. Why wasn't the flex run all the way to the stove connection?
Ideally, it should be one continous run from chimney cap to stove.

Never saw any pellet stove installed
that way. It would be a pain in the ass
cuz you'd have to yank the pipe
from the back every time to clean.
We ran our flex into a cleanout T
which goes to the back of the stove.
 
because the flex pipe was not able to flex enought to make the turn to come out of the hole in the wall. It would have to had made a 90 degree like a 90 degree elbow makes.
 
Sounds like a stove that dumps into an exsiting flue. I think BeGreen is thinking of an insert. Anyway... if you used simpson pellet venting, those 90 degree elbows are NOT made to twist. They do twsit... but you are not supposed to twist them. If you or anyone twisted the joints, thats why its leaking. They are sealed from the factory. Now that the seal is broken somehow, get some hi temp RTV silicone from a stove or furnace shop to seal it back up again.
 
yes, I am relining an existing flu.

I'll reseal those pieces from the inside tonight. I think I'll probbaly go over baord and seal every possible joint inside the pipes to make I do not have to do this twice!!

Thanks,
WR
 
I have to ask why not a tee to make the 90 degree bend To really seal those joints they should be taken apart and 500 degree RTV caulk applied first then connecti ed tryinmg to sealt is afterwards is a hit and miss proposition there is also 600 degre HVAC tape that can be used the common HVAC tape found at Homecheapo the adhiesive will soften in the pellet vent heat range and is useless
 
zeta said:
BeGreen said:
I am not following yet. Why wasn't the flex run all the way to the stove connection?
Ideally, it should be one continous run from chimney cap to stove.

Never saw any pellet stove installed
that way. It would be a pain in the ass
cuz you'd have to yank the pipe
from the back every time to clean.
We ran our flex into a cleanout T
which goes to the back of the stove.

Correct, I was thinking insert. The Quad 1200i has a flue collar with stiff spring clips that allows detachment from the stove for cleaning. In addition it has a cleanout port below this removable collar. A tee would do no good for it. On stoves without this arrangement, the cleanout tee is the way to go.
 
whiskeyrichard said:
yes, I am relining an existing flu.

I'll reseal those pieces from the inside tonight. I think I'll probbaly go over baord and seal every possible joint inside the pipes to make I do not have to do this twice!!

Thanks,
WR
Quick question are they leaking from the twist-lock joints, or the ribs along the elbow?
I was always told to smear a bit of high temp RTV on the ribs of the elbow also.
Did you do the flashlight test at startup to locate the exact point of the leak....

Any way..... before you glob all that RTV on those joints from the inside BE SURE to either have a cleanout T or High temp silicone tape or foil tape at one point or you will find it nearly impossible to get that pipe and stove apart for cleaning and or service without it being a PITA....
 
Yeah they have good points. If that is a 90 elbow in the syetm going from horizontal to verticle it should be a T with a cleanout. If its right on the back of the unit (which it sounds like its not) you should use the chimney adaptor with cleanout instead. I have a feeling though, that this 90 elbow is buried into the old flue, so a cleanout would not be accesible anyway.
 
Hmmnn, simpson duravent (that's a joke) leaking where it shouldn't. To quote my cousin Vincent Gambini, who graduated from the Brooklyn Academy of Law, "There's a f-----g surprise." I learned the hard way after my first stove installation to seal every single seam, rivet, joint, dimple, crease etc with RTV. simpson has more balls than a golf tournament charging the kind of money they do for such a crappy product.
 
richg said:
Hmmnn, simpson duravent (that's a joke) leaking where it shouldn't. To quote my cousin Vincent Gambini, who graduated from the Brooklyn Academy of Law, "There's a f-----g surprise."
Hey Vinny how are the 2 yutes doin'? ;-) LMAO
 
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