New to me '93 wood insert...a few newbie questions?

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

LeoJr

Member
Hearth Supporter
Oct 22, 2006
9
Denton, Tx
Pulled a Regency R14 with a Aug '93 manufacture date from a house to be demolished and installed it into my existing metal lined fireplace.

Why are the two forums that split '93 and older/new stoves? And how can I tell if mine belongs in the newer or older classification?

There's not much of a stove top on this design to get a temp reading. Meaning, it appears that all surfaces I can touch, except for the door and glass, have an air cavity that the fan blows air through. So I don't know how to get a good temp reading of the direct fire heat. Is this important and if so, I'm open to suggestions on how to take a measurement?

I think of more importance to me is the temp of the air being blown out? I have a probe type thermometer (reads to 220) that reads between 180 and 200. Reading through the threads linked in the "Start here" sticky this seems really low. I will search for a higher range thermometer.

I've got a lot to learn on wood, seasoning, etc as I see how this is affecting my burn time, temperature and the flame's enthusiasm. I am still learning how much wood to put in and how much draft to give it.

Thank you in advance for your patience with yet another new guy with the typical newbie questions and I appreciate your advice and/or steering me to a source where I can find the answers.

Thanks,
Leo
 
Here's the installed unit.

IMG_6298.JPG
 
Last edited by a moderator:
  • Like
Reactions: jaychino415
Looks like a nice stove. Can you put the thermometer just above the door on one of the corners? Even on the exposed top it would read 4-500 degrees.
If it has secondary burn tubes in the top of the stove below the battle, it will be an EPA stove.
Then You can be part of the club!;lol
 
What kind of flue does the fireplace have? Do you have a liner that fits the outlet of the insert?
 
webby3650,

It is nice! I dreaded my wife asking for a fire because the original 80's built in metal firebox was so inefficient. When this came along i jumped at it it! The stainless flex liner and chimney cap cost more than the insert. Had I known how much the liner cost beforehand I would have not bought the insert! But now I am so very glad to have done this project. Living in Texas (the DFW area) it is hard to justify much expense in a fireplace, efficient or not.

Like a magnetic surface mount on the front? Thanks!

I've since put my wife's candy thermometer into use and have a 260 degree reading with what looks to be a better wood/draft/fire balance. I see that with better wood choices and more experience that your numbers are a realistic target

Yes, it does have a series of holes along the back, the front face (but covered by the door) and in a half pipe welded to the bottom side of the baffle. Does this make it a before or after '93?


grisu,

The exit hole on the top of the insert is 6" and has no control. Remove the baffle and you can reach through it. There is not an insulation 'blanket' on top of this baffle. I'll try to find one.

The original metal chimney tube measures 8" and is inside another metal tube which is about 12" in diameter with an air gap in between. All of this and the original metal fire box was left in place. I removed the gas starter pipe (gas was disconnected from the house 10+ years ago) and the very large, round damper and handle.

My brother helped me wrap, tape and wire mesh the insulation around the 6" flex stainless liner. This liner came with a sleeve that fit on the end and slid into the top of the insert. From the top, we slid the 15' piece of insulated liner down inside the original 8" chimney tube. We ran it into the existing firebox where I made a final S bend, raised it back up, slide the insert in, and reaching upwards through the insert's top hole (the baffle was still removed) I guided the flex liner and sleeve into place.


As you can see by the picture above, there was an attempt to make the existing fireplace marginally efficient with some sort of heat recovery ducts that have fans at the top vents. For now the vents will stay. I trimmed the bottom vent covers so the new (to me) facade would fit properly. A low priority project will be to fill these somehow.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.