New (to me) stove (sears brand)

[jtb51b]

I was given a sears brand wood burning recirculator stove earlier today. I have been wanting a stove for quite a while but haven't had the $$$ to invest in one. I will be installing this old stove in my basement over the next few weeks. I am still unsure of the type of stovepipe to use, but I am learning. This stove is a circa 1981 model but is in fairly new condidtion. Would anyone have any idea of the manufacturer? I can post pictures. The model number begins with 143. which (in the lawn and garden business) suggest Tecumseh engines, but I am sure that is incorrect. Thanks in advance for all the knowledge you guys can pass along.

Jason

 

[eernest4]

Go to sears. com and inquire after an owners manuel. Have make, full model #, serial # & date of mfg from sticker on back of stove with you. Go to nearest sears store & inquire, also.

Owners manuel has all the instructions you need to properly install the stove. If you can't get the owners manuel for your stove, go to www. englanderstoves.com & download the owners manuel from one of there models that look similar to your stove to get an idea of the right way to install a stove and the current installation codes.

Your sears owners manuel is best but failing that, www.englanderstoves.com manuel
will get you started.

Read it 3 times from cover to cover to make the information sink into your mind & then come back here an post some more questions.

Your life & the lives of your loved ones are depending on a proper stove instalation , so lets do it right ,on the first attempt & not cut any conners.

The installation codes are there to protect your life & your home & should be strictly adhered to.

 

[eernest4]

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/articles/installing_a_woodstove

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/QA_Templates/info/1337/

 

[begreen]

Yes, post a picture I'd check on older Ashleys and US Stoves to look for a visual match.

 

[JimWalshin845]

Owners manuel has all the instructions you need to properly install the stove.

Ummmmmm... ALMOST..... codes have changed over the years... I bet the Sears manual states hearth must be 16" out from face of stove yet newer codes mandates 18".

Best to check the latest NFP/UL/ANSI codes for a safe install.

 

[jtb51b]

I think you guys are correct on the brand, the new US stove models look VERY close to what I have. As I said, I will be installing this stove in an unfinished basement, will there be any need for a hearth? I understand the distances from combustable walls, but how about concrete walls? After passing through the wall, how far away from the combustable material of the house should I stay? I assume the differences in pipe available would cause differences in this measurment?

Jason

 

[JimWalshin845]

I think you guys are correct on the brand, the new US stove models look VERY close to what I have. As I said, I will be installing this stove in an unfinished basement, will there be any need for a hearth?
Jason

Concrete over dirt is acceptable as per hearth and full masonary block is fine for surrounds. The only thing I would add is 5/8" firerock to the ceiling the same size as a hearth would be for extra safety.

 

[jtb51b]

Thanks. What kind of distances from block walls should I keep? There will be nothing within 3ft of either side, the rear will back up to the block wall. I was thinking about 8" or so from the wall. The front will be wide open as well. This stove is actually a Wood or COAL recirculator, not sure if that makes any difference.

Jason

 

[webbie]

I think BG has it - is is very likely to be similar to US Stove or King/Ashley, etc Wonderwood and Wondercoal types...

As far as the chimney, that is covered in the instructions for the HT chimney (high temperature) that you buy. You CANNOT use regular stove pipe or anything else for this - look at, for instance, Selkirk, Metal-Fab, etc...... "chimneys" (metal prefabricated)....

http://www.usstove.com/proddetail.php?prod=2941

 

[Todd]

Do you plan on insulating your basement in the future? If not you may be disappointed in the heat output of the stove due to the fact that all that cold concrete will absorb the heat from your stove. Been there, done that.

 

[jtb51b]

I plan on using stove pipe through the outside block wall and then chimney pipe (double wall stuff) from lowes. I believe it is Duravent brand. I hate the price but its gotta be done right. I have been using a Kerosene heater in the basement thus far, it was a 20k BTU unit that I ran on low. This heater was doing quite well heating the space, as well as the upstairs floors. Hopefully this heater can keep up as well. Anything you guys see that I should change?

 

[webbie]

The Duravent pipe should come into the house - through the wall - there is really no "right" way to run single wall through the block and then support and hook up to the dura. The usual way is to install a TEE fitting and a support outside, and then a short piece of matching pipe through the wall, then transition to single wall.

 

[jtb51b]

Hmmm, ok. The stove will be backed up to the wall so I was thinking straight out the back with stove pipe thru the wall and into the chimney.. Guess I'll think again. I could turn the stove pipe up the interior of the block wall and then out at the top which would save me a length or 2 of the duravent but probably cost the same in the long run with the duravent t. I wonder why lowes doesn't sell anything to take the duravent thru the wall? I'll be calling a local buckstove dealer on Wednesday and maybe he can get me the correct T and pipe. Looks like setup will push me out farther in the room than I was originally planning but I double that a foot or so will make a big deal. Thanks again!

Jason

 

[webbie]

Download the manuals online if available - there is not really a proper way to support the chimney without a TEE setup. Something has to hold it up. Your installation should match one shown in the manual. If you cannot find the dura manual online, download any HT 103 metal chimney manual - the basic planning should be the same.

 

[Cath]

Do you plan on insulating your basement in the future? If not you may be disappointed in the heat output of the stove due to the fact that all that cold concrete will absorb the heat from your stove. Been there, done that.

Todd is correct. Vermont Castings has an article on this with a technical explanation of R values, thermal transfer, greater heat loss above ground (&/or above the frost line) versus below, etc., etc., etc.

I know some very intelligent people who can't --or don't want to-- wrap their minds around this concept (my husband included) but it makes sense to me, especially if the ceiling/floor is well insulated and if the stove isn't near the stairs.

Of course if you have access to free or cheap wood or if this will primarily be for back up heat in the event your furnace breaks down then it might still make sense.
~Cath

 

[eernest4]

jtb51 b already said that he was heating the basement with a 20,000 btu keroscene heater, so obviously he needs the basement for some kind of workshop or other use, thats why he is heating it.

I heat 2700 sq ft house from a basement stove too, & I find that the cement gives back most of the heat it soaks up for several hours after the stove is off. Kinda nice if you ask me. Almost like having a soapstone stove.

But , yes, I have spent 1 hour raising the 900 sq ft basement from 60* to 95*, but a 120,000 btu stove can heat up real fast, if it has to.

 

[jtb51b]

I do work in my basement as well. The heat traveling up is just a pleasent side benefit. I do admit that while the heat in the basement is on that I rarely hear the furnace kick on and my natural gas bill is reasonable so I imagine I'm doing some it some good. My main problem is the cost of K1. I paid $4.00/Gal here last month. I burn a tank or so of K1 a day, thats approx 2 gallons. At that rate it cost me more to keep my basement 65 than its worth! I have just been too stuborn in the past to invest in wood. One good thing for me is the availablity and cost of wood. I am a landscape contractor, I regularly cut trees and remove them for customers. Until now this meant I either found someone who could use the wood or threw it in the landfill. I really hated throwing it away but folks are so lazy these days that they wouldn't even pick it up if I cut it in firewood lengths! All this will change next year, I will be stockpiling it for personal use. I also have 15 acres of land that can supply me pretty well just with dead stuff.

Jason

 

[Cath]

In that case, a wood stove in the basement makes sense regardless.

However, may I suggest allowing extra room for clearance so that you can finish and insulate the space someday without moving the stove?

~Cath

 

[JimWalshin845]

Todd is correct. Vermont Castings has an article on this with a technical explanation of R values, thermal transfer, greater heat loss above ground (&/or above the frost line) versus below, etc., etc., etc.

Cath,

Do you have the link handy? I looked in VC's site and couldn't find the tech article.

Thank you in advance,
Jim

 

[Cath]

Jim,
My mistake. It's actually on Woodstock's site.

Sorry. Here's the link: http://www.woodstove.com/pages/basement_install.html

~Cath

 

[jtb51b]

Not a bad idea. The stove sits on the concrete floor and will only have to be moved out from the wall to provde clearance for a combustable wall. I really value the space in front of the stove so for now I think I'll leave it as is. It sits 12" off the block wall, I figure this is more than enough and if I ever decide to finish the area I could move the stove out 2 feet and be good without any heat shields. Am I safe to assume that a hot water heater 30 inches away would be safe? It is a gas unit as well..

Jason

 

[begreen]

Jason, can you post a picture of the installation location? We need to see the big picture here. I believe there are code clearances to other appliances that come into play. Is the gas heater on a separate flue?

 

[jtb51b]

I will post once I am finished with the install. As of now it is quite messy, but nothing is burning. The water heater is of course on a seperate flue, it and the gas furnace are using a combined 6" flue. This has all been installed according to code. The only corner I have cut is the 30 inches on one side to the hot water heater, it is listed at 36". I figure the heater is NOT really a combustable item seeing as it is also a heating system. I will be installing an overhead heat shield because the central ducts run overhead and are right at 60" away, probably way safe as is but I would rather be sure. In all honesty, the install could be no simpler, seeing as I am on a non combustable floor and the only wall close is a block wall 12" to the rear.

Jason

 

[begreen]

Cutting corners, especially with a gas and a wood appliance combo is not acceptable. You don't want to be second guessing this. Move the stove over 6". Do it safe and do it right.

Also, you have a lot of devices that are going to be competing for the limited air supply in the basement. This often leads to bad performance of the stove. Normally the solution would be an outside air kit, but I don't think this stove is designed for this.

 

[jtb51b]

I'm not going to move it 6".. If it comes down to blocking a window to do it I'll pass. I can't see how 6" from a non combustable item will make a lot of difference. I have (unfortunately) a lot of air available to this basement. The doors are quite old and do not seal well. Seems to work very well thus far, maybe i am wrong but I figure if there was enough air for the K1 heater there should be enough for the wood. I understand that wood needs air to draft as well as burn.. If it looks like a problem I will open up a fresh air vent for the stove. I'm not at all trying to be smart, I just can't understand how 6" could make that much difference. I could understand if it were 6" too close to a combustable item, but a hot water heater?

Jason