Could someone please post a picture of what they did to OAK the M55 Insert. I have searched and cannot find anything but text explanations. Oh yes, and of course, the occasional "Don't need to do it".
Thank you.
Thank you.
OAK Setup on the M55
- Thread starter RickNH
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steveg_nh
Member
I'm having an M55 insert installed this Friday. Like you, i looked into this. after having 3 dealers tell me I didn't need the OAK, even after saying, "It's not the money, if it's better, let's do it" they all still said no. So I figure I'll give it a shot without it. Worst case, I pull it out and have one installed.
Papelletman
Member
I do not have a M55 stove, their book strongly recommends the use of a out air kit. I look at it this way, the stove needs to get oxygen from somewhere, better outside air then the air from the room I am in and breathing.
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steveg_nh
Member
I know it does, which is why I asked 3 different installers.Do they just not want to bother, even if they get paid?
ExhibitGuy
New Member
steveg_nh
Member
Jake From State Farm
New Member
Too bad this post wasn't a few weeks ago when I had it out of the wall. I don't have pics but I will try to describe it. My OAK setup is pretty simple. A straight pipe out the back of the unit that fits into a coupler that is attached to the frame. This way you can pull the unit out to work on and when you push it back in both the exhaust and OAK seat into the frame. From the coupler to the outside wall is about 18 inches of metal flex pipe straight out the back.
steveg_nh
Member
So you went through the wall in back? I might be misunderstanding what I've been reading, but some people said they just draw air from inside the chimney. I assume that means the OAK intake pipe just terminates in the chimney itself? Seems too simple, but also that there might be something wrong with that approach. I don't want to cut through the chimney.
And I should have asked - does the OAK on the frame exit the back of the unit? I don't have much more than an inch to spare behind the unit when it's slid in, so if anything was deeper than 17", I wouldn't be able to do it. I didn't see anything in the manual about the OAK though, saying more depth was needed for an OAK install.
And I should have asked - does the OAK on the frame exit the back of the unit? I don't have much more than an inch to spare behind the unit when it's slid in, so if anything was deeper than 17", I wouldn't be able to do it. I didn't see anything in the manual about the OAK though, saying more depth was needed for an OAK install.
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Jake From State Farm
New Member
Sounds like we have different situations. I do not have a masonary fireplace. I had to build the box with cement board so going out the back was not an issue. I have a little over a foot behind the unit to run the flex pipe. The coupler that attaches to the frame sticks out towards the back a few inches so that may be an issue if you are tight for space.
steveg_nh
Member
Sounds like you and I are attempting to do the EXACT same thing! I am against drilling through the chimney and do NOT want to do that. My option is to run an intake pipe though the clean-out to the basement where I can then run it up to ground level and out. however I would still LOVE to see a picture of what others have done to allow the stove to slide in and out and make the connection. I would assume that this connection would not have to be air tight .. but kinda "fit". I also do not have a lot of room behind the unit or under it where the clean out is. I already run the thermostat wires and extension cord up through the clean out to the unit from the basement.
steveg_nh
Member
For me, the clean out is under the frame/unit, so a pipe there would prevent it from sliding in.
bostonfan49
Minister of Fire
Hi RickNH
I have an M55 on rails with an OAK straight out through the back of the chimney (which you don't want to do...got it!) If your access is directly under the stove as it fits inside the fireplace, you may be sunk. But (IF) it's off to one side, you may.....have enough room for some metal flex hose. We would need pics of the inside of fireplace and the location of the cleanout. If you own this place, a straight out shot is simple, minus the cost and sound of making the hole
Bill
I have an M55 on rails with an OAK straight out through the back of the chimney (which you don't want to do...got it!) If your access is directly under the stove as it fits inside the fireplace, you may be sunk. But (IF) it's off to one side, you may.....have enough room for some metal flex hose. We would need pics of the inside of fireplace and the location of the cleanout. If you own this place, a straight out shot is simple, minus the cost and sound of making the hole
Bill
bostonfan49
Minister of Fire
Hi RickNH
I have an M55 on rails with an OAK straight out through the back of the chimney (which you don't want to do...got it!) If your access is directly under the stove as it fits inside the fireplace, you may be sunk. But (IF) it's off to one side, you may.....have enough room for some metal flex hose. We would need pics of the inside of fireplace and the location of the cleanout. If you own this place, a straight out shot is simple, minus the cost and sound of making the hole
Bill
Forgot....but if you exhaust is going up a chimney or up the side of the house, you can also do the combination exhaust/fresh air OAK pipe that many folks use....
Bill
For M55 inserts, if someone wants an OAK, you run a 3 inch liner up the chimney along with the 4 inch exhaust liner. Cut a hole for it to come through the top plate on the chimney flue and 90 deg terminate, making sure its below the exhaust output. Some people will put a separation plate between the two pipes exiting. Its more work, but can be done. You can use 3 in stainless for the incoming air, connect appropriately to the intake below. Plan on spending around 400 or more for this setup, this is the alternative to going out the back of the fireplace.... good luck.
quietcorner dad
Member
I did what Stovelark describes here. you can find pics--which you, Rick, asked for--
here
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads...chimney-m-55-other-stuff.143588/#post-1960978
or if that link doesn't look, either look up posts by me under a title like 'm-55 insert owner's experience with an OAK and other stuff' post.
I feel great about the kind of install that stovelark describes, and am glad not to have installed the oak after reading a lot more user opinion in favor on this site. best wishes!
fmsm
Minister of Fire
Because they are lazy! I was told the same thing and like an idiot I listened to the installer, 2 years later I put in the OAK, what a difference! No more drafts....
railfanron
Minister of Fire
I can't for the life of me figure out why people think it's better to not have an OAK. A stove with a 200 cu ft/min combustion fan will evacuate ALL THE AIR in a 2000 sq ft house in 80 minutes of operation. Hmm I wonder what replaces it on a cold day. Could it be 10 degree outside air? Seems like a no brainer to me, but to each his own.
Ron
Ron
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