Post in 'The Gear' started by HDRock, Nov 24, 2012.
Exactly what He said. Nice work HD. A C
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Ya ! had to cut some bigger stuff to see what kinda guts she had, chewed up the 20" end of that maple tree quick ! sweet
Eager Beaver got a break but did some small stuff, hard to get parts for 1990s but is a good 35cc saw
I got the new starter from the seller today, the starter cup is a smaller diameter than the other one was.
I haven't put it on the saw yet .
Check out this pull handle
Now you can wear snow mittens and still start your saw hahahaha
Usually only see that on "Rescue" saws or sometimes "Arctic" versions.
Good lord that seems like it would get in the way a lot ! I am glad your sticking to it HD that saw will be a real beauty when your done and just in time for snow this morning too .
If my big Husky didnt have a decomp valve,I'd seriously think about putting that handle on it. Sold my Poulan 475/rebadged Jonsered 2077 last November,it had 180+ compression & no decomp,as I got older it was a real arm breaker pulling that rope,especially when it snapped back & almost broke my finger!
The guy I bought the saw from has a saw shop in oregon
I was grinning ear to ear,after I ripped through that 20" tree In no time
On that note, why is a saw so hard to pull some times after it hasn't been run for a while ? cuz not much lubrication in there ?
My 35cc saw, I wasn't holding it down good enough, I pulled and it smacked me in the leg hard I learned a little lesson that day
Saws (pretty much any gas engine I think) are always more difficult to start/have more compression when cold.I cant give you a really scientific answer,just know that's the way it is.
Combination of tighter clearances, less oil clinging to parts, and thicker/more viscous oil from reduced temps.
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