1. Welcome Hearth.com Guests and Visitors - Please enjoy our forums!
    Hearth.com GOLD Sponsors who help bring the site content to you:
    Hearthstone Soapstone and Cast-Iron stoves( Wood, Gas or Pellet Stoves and Inserts)

Question on resizing splits

Post in 'The Wood Shed' started by JCass, Nov 29, 2012.

  1. JCass

    JCass New Member

    Joined:
    Sep 21, 2012
    Messages:
    35
    Loc:
    SLC, UT
    I have recently discovered that my stove runs quite a bit better when loaded N/S. Unfortunately, All the wood I have split is for loading E/S. I have been cutting some splits with a hand saw, but would like to know if any of you could recommend a faster method for trimming these splits?

    Thanks.

    JC

    Helpful Sponsor Ads!





  2. basod

    basod Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Sep 11, 2009
    Messages:
    937
    Loc:
    Mount Cheaha Alabama
    You can build a log saddle criss-cross 2x6's and attach them together slightly shorter than the wood currently is.

    My best burning comes from N-S lower layer then E-W then another N-S if I have room.
  3. blujacket

    blujacket Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Oct 2, 2008
    Messages:
    615
    Loc:
    West Carrollton,Ohio
    I bought a cheap 12" compound miter saw @ Harbor Freight to cut down any long splits I have.
    gmule, jeffoc and JCass like this.
  4. JCass

    JCass New Member

    Joined:
    Sep 21, 2012
    Messages:
    35
    Loc:
    SLC, UT
    I have a miter. Maybe I will by a cheaper blade. Good idea.
    albert1029 likes this.
  5. Boom Stick

    Boom Stick Feeling the Heat

    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2011
    Messages:
    312
    Loc:
    Capital Region, NY
    I use a beater circular saw and it works well. I did a lot like that last year. You gotta make two maybe three passes on each piece and watch for kickback. Lots of dust and lots of smaller cut offs. Basically it is not safe and messy. A miter saw from cheapo harbor freight is a good idea especially with their coupons. beat it to death and toss it. I have seen these boxes made of 2x4 and plywood built on a stand. build it deep as you need......wide as you need for your bar and stack splits in it....I would use some sort of tie down to hold wood from moving while cutting and trim a bunch down at same time with chainsaw. I just came in from working on a pile of stuff I cut up last year...all eye balled and all random lengths....some stuff I can't believe I even cut that long. Rookie year. I actually cut some pieces that won't go in e/w???? Now I mark everything prior to bucking and it is all the same size. Some people say it is all btus who cares but I think things are much easier, neater and efficient when done the same everytime. Good luck. Let us know what set up you choose.
  6. Backwoods Savage

    Backwoods Savage Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Feb 14, 2007
    Messages:
    27,815
    Loc:
    Michigan
    I cut down a bunch of stuff this fall using a milk crate and a ratchet strap. Load the crate, tie it in and tip it on its side. Cut to length. The crate worked good as we wanted a 16" length.

    Others have posted pictures of jigs they built to do this so you might want to do a search if others don't post on this thread.
    Hiram Maxim and albert1029 like this.
  7. Wood Duck

    Wood Duck Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Feb 26, 2009
    Messages:
    4,164
    Loc:
    Central PA
    I put mine in the sawbuck, strap them together with a bungee cord, and use my chainsaw.
    albert1029 likes this.
  8. TreePointer

    TreePointer Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2010
    Messages:
    2,306
    Loc:
    Western PA
    Search: H-FRAME

    (There are pictures in those discussions)
  9. jeff_t

    jeff_t Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Sep 14, 2008
    Messages:
    3,764
    Loc:
    SE MI
    This is what I built. Works well.

    2012-11-30_10-50-04_140.jpg
  10. TimJ

    TimJ Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2012
    Messages:
    1,231
    Loc:
    Southeast Indiana
    That's more work than I would want
    Your moving wood 4 more times and cutting it one more time to boot
  11. jeff_t

    jeff_t Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Sep 14, 2008
    Messages:
    3,764
    Loc:
    SE MI
    I didn't cut it 2' with the intention of cutting off 6-7" later. I was burning in a furnace that would take a 2'+ split, so it is what it is. I'll be through all that in a month or two, then into wood cut for my stove.
  12. gmule

    gmule Feeling the Heat

    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2011
    Messages:
    452
    Loc:
    Conifer Colorado
    I use my compound miter saw too. I also use it to cut the 3" and smaller branches and saplings as well.
  13. Boom Stick

    Boom Stick Feeling the Heat

    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2011
    Messages:
    312
    Loc:
    Capital Region, NY
    This is what I mentioned earlier...nice. What size bar on your saw? How wide is your rack?
  14. jeffesonm

    jeffesonm Feeling the Heat

    Joined:
    May 29, 2012
    Messages:
    455
    Loc:
    central NJ
    I have to do the same with a bunch of wood I collected before I had a stove. I made one of the racks like jeff_t above and it goes pretty quick to chop em down with the chainsaw. Seems like it's worth the extra effort to cut them rather than try to fuss with diagonal loading, don't fit in the firebox, pushing around half flaming logs trying to get it all packed in there...
  15. Pallet Pete

    Pallet Pete Guest

    You will have to bring that bad boy over here Jeff ;)

    Pete
  16. jeff_t

    jeff_t Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Sep 14, 2008
    Messages:
    3,764
    Loc:
    SE MI
    That's a 28 in the pic, but I made it to work with a 20. Depends on what I want to run that day. It's 16" deep, so I have room for error. I run the dogs an inch or so away from the frame and they end up about right.

    I'm about done with the box. You can have it, but it doesn't come with the saw ;lol
    Pallet Pete likes this.
  17. curber

    curber Feeling the Heat

    Joined:
    Oct 6, 2011
    Messages:
    294
    Loc:
    south east idaho
    I'm going to just stay out of this one and keep filling my bins! Pat

    Attached Files:

  18. bboulier

    bboulier Feeling the Heat

    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2010
    Messages:
    442
    Loc:
    NE Virginia
    curber,

    How do you make those bins? I can see some uses other than firewood. I see pallets in the background. That's what I usually use.
  19. SolarAndWood

    SolarAndWood Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Feb 3, 2008
    Messages:
    6,770
    Loc:
    Syracuse NY
    same basic idea but metal...ratchet straps are key.

    Attached Files:

  20. curber

    curber Feeling the Heat

    Joined:
    Oct 6, 2011
    Messages:
    294
    Loc:
    south east idaho
    The bins are a 275 gallon tote tank with the liner removed.
    Like the one pictured.

    Attached Files:

  21. JCass

    JCass New Member

    Joined:
    Sep 21, 2012
    Messages:
    35
    Loc:
    SLC, UT
    I went with something similar except made of wood. Made short work of a large stack of splits. Now sized for N/S loading and burning much better that way. Thanks for all the ideas.
  22. swagler85

    swagler85 Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2012
    Messages:
    1,195
    Loc:
    NE Ohio
    Boy that metal would scare me, on mine I run my saw close to the uprights and hit them at times. I would ruin a chain on a metal stand.
    But yours will long outlast my wooden one by a long shot.
  23. SolarAndWood

    SolarAndWood Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Feb 3, 2008
    Messages:
    6,770
    Loc:
    Syracuse NY
    That is the trade off. The nice thing about using metal and the ratchet straps is the wood does not move at all while you are cutting it. The frame is about 4' tall and you cut both sides every time you start the saw for a pretty decent sized batch. I cut well away from the metal and it is pretty fast with the 24" bar.
  24. swagler85

    swagler85 Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2012
    Messages:
    1,195
    Loc:
    NE Ohio
    That would work well, mine is about 4' tall but only one side. I made mine 15" deep and then cut just outside of that to get my 16" pieces, sometimes hit the 2x4 though but no biggie I can replace them easily

Share This Page