billb3 said:I did my sister's house as there were huge gaps in places I could stick my hand in and you could see my fingers wiggling outside.
(no rim joist just wafer board)
I did the rigid foam slightly undersized so a good bead of expanding foam to hold it in place all around the perimeter.
I even used the mylar covered foam board and sealed the cut ends. ( anal, I know )
Semipro said:I've found the most cost-effective way to do this is to:
- Install 2" XPS or ISO foam against the skirt boards.
- seal in place with spray foam
- add fiberglass batts (installed properly) behind that out to the thickness of the basement wall
This is cost-effective because canned spray foam is very expensive compared to board foam whether contractor-installed or DIY kits.
I don't believe that the fiberglass batts require a fire retardant covering if an approved ceiling is installed below them (but I'd like to know if code requires otherwise).
Grannyknot said:My Stove is in my basement, and I am pretty dependent on keeping hot air in and cold air out.
Does it make sense to put insulation right above the sill plate, in between floor joists?
Grannyknot said:Yes sir!
Is rigid foam a better option than faced insulation?
EJL923 said:retired guy, thats exactly why i have been holding off on insulating this area, fear of the pest.. When i moved into the house i remember the pest control guy saying, "oh good, i can inspect the sill". I may just air seal with some caulk which will keep it visible and easy to inspect.