Well, it might be worth a test just to see.
How do you start a fire? Have you tried top-down lighting?
How do you start a fire? Have you tried top-down lighting?
Smoke leakage, and other questions
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To save i would start with flue probe good wood and preheat. Let us know how it works out. But my basement testing indicates you can change the pipes all you want and move the stove closer and its still going to have cold pipe sydrome...You already have double wall near the adapter and I think the shortest section is 12 inches. You might find a 6 inch double wall adapter but I don't think the mfg would ok it near the adapter. Even if ok I wouldn't sit the stove directly on chimney wall. Air flow access to screw etc...
Putting multiple firestarters in 15 or 20 minutes before could work. All depends on how cold your flue gets.
Maybe the next time you replace stove or pipes use the two 45s or if you get lots of smoke spillage on reloads then spend the funds.
Putting multiple firestarters in 15 or 20 minutes before could work. All depends on how cold your flue gets.
Maybe the next time you replace stove or pipes use the two 45s or if you get lots of smoke spillage on reloads then spend the funds.
I top down all of them. It doesn't work doing it the other way. My understanding is the air bias on this stove is incredibly top heavy, 80/20 ratio approximately. If you try to light from the bottom it will just smoulder. With dry kindling and wood with the propane torch to start it, I can always get it to light quite quickly, it just sometimes wants to smoke from the pipes.
I can't go right up to the chimney anyway, since it sits on its own footer.
I don't intend to replace the stove anytime soon... As in any time I own the house. NG is cheap here, it's just a little cheaper for me to cut my own wood and burn, but the break even is not really there if I'm going to spend a bunch more money trying to make this work better. As it is I can always get it to burn and heat the house, I just have smoke leakage.
kennyp2339
Minister of Fire
I'd lean then to getting rid of that 90deg elbow and install the (2) 45's in its place, you might have to much turbulence when stove temps are low which is making the smoke find the path of least resistance.
When the stove is not in use do you get any smells in the basement?
I assume you mean smoke or soot smells, and the answer is no.
Seems everyone figures getting rid of the 90 for two 45s in the best route... I might just go buy some pipe and try it then.
Indications are fairly strong that the draft is marginal. Changing out the first 90 turn will help. So would adding another 2-3 ft to the chimney top. Even so, there may be days when the atmospherics work against draft. For example, our stove was a bit more balky at startup today, probably due to higher outdoor temps and a falling barometer.
kennyp2339
Minister of Fire
What ever it is your running out of time, you west coasters are in for part 2 of winter, February is setting up to be a rough one for you folks.
Would insulating around the masonry chimney that's in the attic help? Or hurt? Or irrelevant?
I want to do it regardless as it seems the chimney warms the attic a bit, which isn't ideal for ice damming.
I want to do it regardless as it seems the chimney warms the attic a bit, which isn't ideal for ice damming.
I don't believe it is, it just looked like a stainless steel accordion when they had it out. What are the insulated ones insulated with?
I think interior is 2" in Canada as well. Outside is more than our required 1". But I am not positive
Well, that's interesting. The chimney is framed around (no gaps) at least where it penetrates the floor, ceiling, and roof. I have no idea how much airgap or whatever is in the part that is framed out and finished on the second floor. I could figure it out with a tape measure, but I'm not sure I'm going to look when I'm not going to like the results.
stoveliker
Minister of Fire
I don't understand.
You don't go look if your child has his/her seatbelt on because you won't like the results??
Note that prolonged exposure to heat will gradually and progressively lower the (spontaneous) ignition temperature of wood
Hence the "it's gone okay for 30 years" only suggests it's going to reach disaster sooner ...
You don't go look if your child has his/her seatbelt on because you won't like the results??
Note that prolonged exposure to heat will gradually and progressively lower the (spontaneous) ignition temperature of wood
Hence the "it's gone okay for 30 years" only suggests it's going to reach disaster sooner ...
I looked at pictures of insulated liners. It may be. I didn't look at it close and just remember watching them stuffing it down the chimney and swearing constantly. A non-insulated should have fit a lot easier.
Exactly.
Exactly.
I dont believe the fire blocking applies to the 2 inch rule... but I could be wrong...
The airspace shall not be filled, except to provide fire blocking in accordance with Section R1003.19.
https://up.codes/viewer/massachusetts/irc-2015/chapter/10/chimneys-and-fireplaces#R1003.18
Plus you have chimney crickets that break the 2 inch rule...(these are outside though) and looks like 1 inch.
What do you think? I think he is ok as long as its lined. if not A lot of homes in New England are in Violation is guess...
The airspace shall not be filled, except to provide fire blocking in accordance with Section R1003.19.
https://up.codes/viewer/massachusetts/irc-2015/chapter/10/chimneys-and-fireplaces#R1003.18
Plus you have chimney crickets that break the 2 inch rule...(these are outside though) and looks like 1 inch.
What do you think? I think he is ok as long as its lined. if not A lot of homes in New England are in Violation is guess...
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That is us code not Canadian I am not sure how they deal with it.
But no I seriously doubt they have proper clearances
???
Exceptions:
- Masonry chimneys equipped with a chimney lining system listed and labeled for use in chimneys in contact with combustibles in accordance with UL 1777 and installed in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions are permitted to have combustible material in contact with their exterior surfaces.
stoveliker
Minister of Fire
Yes the only way liners are listed for zero clearance is if they are insulated
I guess the key is the insulation unless you can find a liner that passes UL1777....and i think the op paid for a wett inspection.
Being listed to ul1777 isn't enough. It needs to be listed for zero clearance under ul1777. But again we are talking about US code and they are in Canada. I don't know their codes well enough to advise for sure
Yes, I paid for a WETT inspection, and a professional install, so that I shouldn't have to have this debate.
The area the chimney passes through the second floor is framed large enough there almost undoubtedly is an adequate airgap inside. I can't know for sure without smashing a hole in the wall, and that's not happening this winter. Maybe when I reno the kitchen I'd look into it.
I'm struggling on how exactly one would frame a building to have zero contact of the framing with a masonry chimney though. You ultimately would have to do something to support the penetrations through the floors/ceiling/roof.
It isn't easy to build a chimney with proper clearances which is why it is done so rarely.
Its amazing how many dealers sell the liner without the insulation and how many inspectors pass it. Many heating companies just want to drop a liner quick and never insulate anything. From reading the code there are ways to install the wood framing closer but it would require some type of metal flashing. Thanks for the free chimney liner class - bholler
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