SS Chimney Pipe through 2 floors on the interior?

[Yamaha_gurl]

I'm pretty sure I've seen in on here. Is this legal?

What I mean is if your stove is on a ground floor, instead of going out the house and up along side of the exterior, you simply cut a hole in your floor and go straight up as height as possible until you have to you out. Can anyone find the pics that are on here?

 

[daleeper]

I'm pretty sure I've seen in on here. Is this legal?

What I mean is if your stove is on a ground floor, instead of going out the house and up along side of the exterior, you simply cut a hole in your floor and go straight up as height as possible until you have to you out. Can anyone find the pics that are on here?

My stove is in the basement. When we built the house, I moved the class A chimney out of the old house and into the new, with a few added pieces of chimney sections. You need class A chimney running all the way from your initial exit of the room the stove is in, to the outlet of the chimney. The support box will be on the ceiling of your ground floor, and will run through the floor of your second level, then through a hole in the ceiling of the second floor (or attic floor), with an insulation shield, and out the roof through the flashing. My wife still fusses about the linen closet she gave up for that chimney. The initial plan was a cement block chimney in another location, but noticed rafters in the way, so moved it to the closet, boy did I hear about it when she got home and saw that chimney in her closet.

Page three of the pdf file from Simpson shows a diagram of what you are looking at:

http://www.duravent.com/docs/instruct/L170_can_Jun05.pdf

I'm sure other chimney mfg. have diagrams also, I am familiar with simpson.

Watch for clearances at each level you go through. Each mfg. will have their own clearance specifications and accessories designed for their chimney system.

 

[northwinds]

Our chimney is similar. It starts in the family room, goes through a wall into a walk-in closet, up through the ceiling into another
walk-in closet, up through another ceiling into the attic, and then out the roof. My wife has similar feelings about losing part
of her closet. My son likes fire and doesn't care about losing part of his closet. As mentioned, it needs to be class A once it leaves
the first room, and the cost of chimney can be expensive. We were able to salvage most of the chimney from our old old house,
so we only had to pay for the chimney once.

 

[fossil]

Yup ^^ Stovepipe (single or double wall) from the stove flue collar to the first penetration of the structure (be it a wall or a ceiling)...then, after the appropriate adapter/support, Class A chimney all the way to daylight, with whatever additional add-ons are necessary. Rick

 

[Pagey]

Pics of my install going through an upstairs bedroom.

Endeavor on the ground floor, double wall stove pipe up to the support box:

Support box secured to ceiling/floor joists between living spaces:

Class A from support box through the bedroom floor above:

Class A running up to ceiling/attic. It's now enclosed:

Radiation shield going into the attic:

The roof:

 

[DAKSY]

You ARE gonna enclose that Class A, where it passes thru the living space, right?

 

[Pagey]

You ARE gonna enclose that Class A, where it passes thru the living space, right?

Those are old pics. That room is not even the same color now! It's blue with white and brown polka dots (I kid you not). But yes, you have to enclose the Class A. I should update my pics some time. Maybe this week when the Feds get through with us at work things will slow down.

 

[madison]

You ARE gonna enclose that Class A, where it passes thru the living space, right?

Those are old pics. That room is not even the same color now! It's blue with white and brown polka dots (I kid you not). But yes, you have to enclose the Class A. I should update my pics some time. Maybe this week when the Feds get through with us at work things will slow down.

pagey,

I do not want to come off as a "flamer".

But I would have to agree with Daksy, that you should not post pictures of improper installs, as folks who are browsing could be potentially mislead by your "advice".

Also, I believe, but I could be in error, that the rear clearance is 4.5" for the endeavor ( http://www.lopistoves.com/product_guide/detail.aspx?id=209#Installation) , pictures are deceiving but rear clearance seems to be a bit tight as well ( https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/37171/ )

 

[Pagey]

How is the install improper? All clearances are maintained as specified by the manufacturer. The pics are for illustrative purposes to show what the Class A passing through a living space looks like. Because I don't have pics uploaded of the enclosed Class A my installation is now improper? Pardon me.

Edit: and the rear clearance on the Endeavor is actually exceeded. I can post up a pic of that tonight, or you can search my Photobucket account.

Note that Clearance B in your link is from the back wall to the STOVE body, not the heat shield. You can see in my other thread that I have 5.25" from the back wall to the stove body.

You know what, maybe you caught me on the wrong side of the bed today, but I'm livid. I have NEVER, ever purposefully posted ANY ill advice on here that could put someone's home and family in danger. Search my posts. I have always tried to be helpful, and I have always, always deferred to those with more knowledge. She asked a question (can Class A pass through a living space - yes, it can) and then asked for pics (which I happened to have). Again, with the exception of NOT having a current pic of the enclosed Class A uploaded to Photobucket, I answered her question WITH pics. And again, the installation is by the book. All clearances are met or EXCEEDED. The pics of the Class A are for illustrative purposes - i.e., if I upload only enclosed pics, you can't see the pass through, the attic insulation shield, the support box in the floor, etc.

 

[begreen]

Don't be upset, the dialog and questioning are usually helpful to the next person coming along and reading the thread. It's great that you could provide the very illustrative photos so quickly. Thanks. The photos are fine, but might have been clearer if the class A shot was labeled, "before enclosure". The camera tends to compress the view. Clearances in photos often look closer than they are. One thing I wondered about that doesn't show in the photos - is there a firestop at the penetration of the ceiling?

PS: I edited the description of the class A pic to indicate that it is now enclosed.

 

[madison]

pagey,

i am sorry and apologize, i did not intend to flame, i just wanted to make sure that future readers who may not thoroughly read the threads but look at the pictures, could potentially be mislead by your picture of the unenclosed chimney. Potentially that reader would not know that your picture was of a work in progress as Daksy and myself have noted.

As well, the mfg's clearance specifications are strange to me, in that the 6" rear floor protection from the back of the stove and the 4.5" to wall seem to be contradictory? Which is again my error.

Again, I did not intend to infuriate or flame and apologize for my remarks.

 

[Pagey]

pagey,

i am sorry and apologize, i did not intend to flame, i just wanted to make sure that future readers who may not thoroughly read the threads but look at the pictures, could potentially be mislead by your picture of the unenclosed chimney. Potentially that reader would not know that your picture was of a work in progress as Daksy and myself have noted.

As well, the mfg's clearance specifications are strange to me, in that the 6" rear floor protection from the back of the stove and the 4.5" to wall seem to be contradictory? Which is again my error.

Again, I did not intend to infuriate or flame and apologize for my remarks.

I apologize too. Bad day, caught me wrong that's all. If you look in the Endeavor manual, you'll find this on page 8:

"Floor protection must extend to the sides, rear, and front of the stove (see “Clearances” below for
minimum floor protection).
NOTE: when installed with reduced-clearance connector, the clearance to the backwall may be less
than the floor protection requirement. In this case the floor protection must extend to the wall."

If I use the Class A pass through pics in the future, I will be sure to note that Class A must be enclosed in a living space. I upped those in a hurry last night while on the phone with the guy that's doing our bathroom remodel, so I wasn't especially focused. My main goal was to give her a visual idea of what the install could look like. I'm a visual person - I need to see an example. Some people can walk into a dried in house, for example, look around, and know exactly what the finished product will look like. I'm a moron, and I need concrete examples from a home interior catalog.

Sorry about the ruffled feathers.

 

[madison]

The various mfg's descriptions of their clearances are IMHO very hard to follow. I know I played for weeks with cardboard cutouts, masking tape and still was uncertain if the install would be in compliance. Have a good day.

 

[Dakotas Dad]

The various mfg's descriptions of their clearances are IMHO very hard to follow. I know I played for weeks with cardboard cutouts, masking tape and still was uncertain if the install would be in compliance. Have a good day.

this is the EXACT reason I was given as to why the local inspectors do not inspect wood stove installs. Every stove is different, and every stove has multiple specs based on "type" of install and or accesories. And then there are people like us who have an install not exactly covered in any manual..lol

 

[firefighterjake]

Geesh . . . I was popping up the popcorn getting ready for Madison and Pagey to get into it and then they act nice, both apologize and everything is hunky dory . . . now what am I going to do with this popcorn?

On the serious side . . . I swear hearth.com members can be the nicest folks . . . not like some forums I hang out at where the mud slinging can get kind of wild sometimes.

 

[firefighterjake]

The various mfg's descriptions of their clearances are IMHO very hard to follow. I know I played for weeks with cardboard cutouts, masking tape and still was uncertain if the install would be in compliance. Have a good day.

this is the EXACT reason I was given as to why the local inspectors do not inspect wood stove installs. Every stove is different, and every stove has multiple specs based on "type" of install and or accesories. And then there are people like us who have an install not exactly covered in any manual..lol

Seems like a cop out to me . . . we follow NFPA specs and the stove manufacturer's specs . . . 99 times out of 100 the install is covered by the book or NFPA specs . . . and most of the time the installation options are kind of limited so flipping through the manual to find the section that applies is pretty quick (plus they usually have a picture and inspectors love pictures ) . . . granted there is always that one odd-ball install . . . but in that case oftentimes someone has either checked with the manufacturer or is able to prove to us that he/she has met and/or exceeded the requirements for clearances/floor protection/etc.

 

[Dakotas Dad]

The various mfg's descriptions of their clearances are IMHO very hard to follow. I know I played for weeks with cardboard cutouts, masking tape and still was uncertain if the install would be in compliance. Have a good day.

this is the EXACT reason I was given as to why the local inspectors do not inspect wood stove installs. Every stove is different, and every stove has multiple specs based on "type" of install and or accesories. And then there are people like us who have an install not exactly covered in any manual..lol

Seems like a cop out to me . . . we follow NFPA specs and the stove manufacturer's specs . . . 99 times out of 100 the install is covered by the book or NFPA specs . . . and most of the time the installation options are kind of limited so flipping through the manual to find the section that applies is pretty quick (plus they usually have a picture and inspectors love pictures ) . . . granted there is always that one odd-ball install . . . but in that case oftentimes someone has either checked with the manufacturer or is able to prove to us that he/she has met and/or exceeded the requirements for clearances/floor protection/etc.

I agree, I didn't think it would be that hard, but who am I to argue if I don't need a permit or inspection to do something on MY property.. that said, since he is a hunting buddy and friend, I did have him look at mine. he actually said it was way more than anything he had seen built ever for a wood stove. :cheese:

I will point out it is Kentucky.. if I lived about 6 miles west of where I am, that county has no inspector at all. none. nada. build what, where, you want. Actually, if I had 1 more acre, we would be a "farm", and almost all inspections/local codes would be out the window for us here.

 

[vvvv]

Yup ^^ Stovepipe (single or double wall) from the stove flue collar to the first penetration of the structure (be it a wall or a ceiling)...then, after the appropriate adapter/support, Class A chimney all the way to daylight, with whatever additional add-ons are necessary. Rick

looks good 2me 2

 

[firefighterjake]

The various mfg's descriptions of their clearances are IMHO very hard to follow. I know I played for weeks with cardboard cutouts, masking tape and still was uncertain if the install would be in compliance. Have a good day.

this is the EXACT reason I was given as to why the local inspectors do not inspect wood stove installs. Every stove is different, and every stove has multiple specs based on "type" of install and or accesories. And then there are people like us who have an install not exactly covered in any manual..lol

Seems like a cop out to me . . . we follow NFPA specs and the stove manufacturer's specs . . . 99 times out of 100 the install is covered by the book or NFPA specs . . . and most of the time the installation options are kind of limited so flipping through the manual to find the section that applies is pretty quick (plus they usually have a picture and inspectors love pictures ) . . . granted there is always that one odd-ball install . . . but in that case oftentimes someone has either checked with the manufacturer or is able to prove to us that he/she has met and/or exceeded the requirements for clearances/floor protection/etc.

I agree, I didn't think it would be that hard, but who am I to argue if I don't need a permit or inspection to do something on MY property.. that said, since he is a hunting buddy and friend, I did have him look at mine. he actually said it was way more than anything he had seen built ever for a wood stove. :cheese:

I will point out it is Kentucky.. if I lived about 6 miles west of where I am, that county has no inspector at all. none. nada. build what, where, you want. Actually, if I had 1 more acre, we would be a "farm", and almost all inspections/local codes would be out the window for us here.

Nope . . . I wouldn't argue either . . . I'm kind of in the same boat as you in some ways . . . at least in the small town where I live. No need for a permit, but the Fire Department will actually come in as a "favor" and do a free inspection (which my insurance company required) and surprisingly enough the Chief did a very complete inspection . . . which surprised me a bit even though I'm in the department since I figured it would be a very cursory inspection . . . not because I was a member, but because it being a small, volunteer fire department.

And I'm a lot like you . . . if we went to any of the other towns nearby they would probably have looked at me as if I had two heads and was green skinned if I asked them to do a woodstove inspection . . . and if they did do one I suspect it would have been very, very basic . . . and I may have had to inform them of what was permitted and what was up to code.

It is worth pointing out incidentally, that like you I also went above and beyond what was required . . . which I suspect is common to many hearth.com members here . . . sometimes folks may need to help educate some less-informed folks though since I have run across a few (not a lot fortunately) folks who do not realize just how close a woodstove can be installed nowadays with the aid of the newer stoves, rear heat shields, etc.

You know based on your description I think I would like Kentucky . . . by the way we've got a few of your countrymen living here now . . . a couple Amish families moved into town here from Kentucky.

 

[Dakotas Dad]

My wife just took these Saturday.. this is what "our" part looks like right now..

http://tinyurl.com/35dbyxf

best time of the year is spring...

I have also noticed a habit of "Hearthers" to go above and beyond, but most importantly, new people come on here and some times ask questions or have "plans" that are sketchy at best and nearly all of them realize that fire in your home is GOOD, but your HOUSE ON FIRE!! is bad, and quickly see that doing it right is best, and I wonder if they take that into other parts of their lives after being exposed to it here..