Summit Observations from my stove and set up.

[certified106]

Not sure what this information lends to the discussion but I was looking over the T6 and the Summit parts diagrams yesterday and the Summit has a different flame shield design than the T6. I wonder if that has anything to do with the difference in flue temps and draft. The T6 is just a flat plate and the Summit has an upright plate that directs the smoke around it. You should look at the parts breakdown for each stove as I'm curious why there is a difference between the two.

 

[oldspark]

That is interesting, I checked the diagrams and there is a difference, I wonder if any of the PE experts on here have an idea, I dont think all of us Summit owners report high flue temps though.

 

[oldspark]

I called PE and the guts are the same, diagrams were made at a different time and so the reason for the difference.

 

[certified106]

Haha, You were right on top of that one. Which diagram is the correct one?

 

[oldspark]

[quote author="certified106" date="1326833142"]Haha, You were right on top of that one. Which diagram is the correct one?[/quote They are both right its just the way they show it, I believe part # 3 on the T6 is part number 17 on the Summit Classic.

 

[Hogwildz]

Summit top flame shield if this is the one your referring to?

 

[oldspark]

Yep and mine is in there if memory serves me right, I checked when I cleaned the baffle, Hog-I read your post in the full box thread and I could never load that big of Oak splits and get it to burn that well , I think my wood is as dry as I can get it in Iowa, the Green Ash is at 13 to 15% and my 3 or 4 year old (lost track) small splits of Burr Oak is at 16%. I wish now with all the time off for xmas I would have just bought 4 more feet of chimney pipe.

 

[Todd]

Summit top flame shield if this is the one your referring to?

Yeah, that's called the "non cat insulating shield". Ducking for cover. :lol:

 

[begreen]

Lillyrat-there seems to be a few more people who's PE stove runs like our but not very many, I gave up on the flue temp thing other wise I would not get any heat out of it, with a really good fire I see 600 flue temps (checked with IR) and one morning I had 726, after the stove settles they can be high (400) but not too bad. Not to sure about the EBT either, I have had it taped off part of the time. It is amazing how well the big splits of Green Ash are working, the stove temperture and length of burns are as good as a well packed stove of Oak and White Ash. Not sure how another length of chimney will effect the stove.

I have no idea if this relates to your situation, but I have a friend that put in a new Summit this fall. A few weeks ago I visited him and noticed this probe temps on double-wall flue were high (6-700F) with a 450F stove top. His chimney was also smoking a little. This setup is not ideal. the connector goes up about 5 feet, then offsets with a combo of 45s into a block chimney flue (8x8 tiles). The chimney goes up about 7ft from that thimble. When you open the door on his stove, unless you do it very slowly, it spills smoke. He can get decent secondary combustion, but often doesn't. Instead he runs 3-4 splits of alder at a time in a dirty, semi-smoldering state. Being an old style stove burner he has not really learned how to burn cleanly. This is going to take time. The problem is compounded by him getting a stove that's a bit too big for the place. An Alderlea T5 is what I recommended or a Woodstock.

This summer the goal is to either extend the chimney or replace it with a straight up, taller class A system. He will still need to learn to burn cleaner, but that is a longer slog I suspect.

 

[madison]

I would have just bought 4 more feet of chimney pipe.

?? Would removing the damper accomplish the same affect as adding a length of chimney -- and be easier ??

 

[oldspark]

I would have just bought 4 more feet of chimney pipe.

?? Would removing the damper accomplish the same affect as adding a length of chimney -- and be easier ??

The damper has helped out the stove, I get longer burns and better stove top temps using it.

 

[madison]

I wish now with all the time off for xmas I would have just bought 4 more feet of chimney pipe.

My question is a "physics" question, my thought is, adding chimney length would increase draft. While a damper would effectively reduce draft available to the stove. Is this incorrect?

 

[begreen]

The damper can be treating the symptoms and not the disease. He's getting high flue temps, thus added the damper. But if the high flue temps are because of incomplete combustion (as cooler stove would seem to indicate) then it still could be an insufficient draft issue, possibly because of terrain, location of flue, competition for air flow in house, like leaking ceiling light cans or attic vent, or window cracked open upstairs? FWIW, I don't recall ever seeing a picture posted of this setup or the roof flue installation. So all is guesswork.

 

[oldspark]

We are gong in circles so in a nutshell
I AM heating about 2200 sq feet in NW Iowa with this stove so it works just not quite like many others have reported.
Not burning dirty the chimney NEVER smokes after start up.
Plenty of air going to stove and I have a sliding glass door with in 15 feet I can check when I have to and makes no difference in the fire.
With the new chimney the fires start quicker and can close the door almost right away, when real cold not sure I need to open door at all.
Dont know why the high flue temps transfered with the new chimney, though they were gone but as it got colder they returned it seems.
I ran the stove with out the damper and it works better using it and it dont seem to have an effect of the draft when fully open.
The 4 foot chimney addition was just to rule that out.
The stove works guys it just wont work like some others, I have read a ton of posts and seen the pictures of what wood people are putting in their stoves and I can not burn big splits of wood very well except for the Green Ash which burns super.
I need a drink.

 

[begreen]

I am currently burning big thick splits of locust and cherry in milder temps. That's another reason why I suspect it still may be draft. Seems like there's hundreds of posts about this stove and still no pictures. Maybe it never happened? :coolsmirk:

 

[oldspark]

I am currently burning big thick splits of locust and cherry in milder temps. That's another reason why I suspect it still may be draft. Seems like there's hundreds of posts about this stove and still no pictures. Maybe it never happened? :coolsmirk:

I agree it might be draft hence I wish I would have added the 4 feet just to rule it out, if I thought the damper was reducing my draft I would take it out but I dont think it amounts to a hill of beans, not sure what pictures would do for ya. Ya gotta admit 2200 sg ft in NW Iowa with a stove that I dont think is quite right aint all bad, and you guys thought I did not know what I was doing. :lol: No backup heat here so its sink or swim.

 

[oldspark]

First of all I am not asking for help as we know where that gets us, riding a dead horse.
.

Is it a bad thing to quote yourself?

 

[Sodbuster]

Oldspark, I know this thread is over a year old, but did you ever find a way to improve your stove top temps. I to have a Summit, and I can't seem to get the stove top to go over 550 deg, and to do that I really need to push it. Last night for example, my stove was cruising at around 450 degrees fully shut down, but my stack temp was around 850. Seems too high. Normally this isn't a bit deal, but when it really gets cold, I'd like to be able to run it hotter even if it does use more wood. SB

 

[begreen]

Sodbuster, your situation may be different. Can you start at new thread so that we can give it separate attention. Start with some specifics about the entire flue system from stove to chimney cap. Then go into detail about the wood you're burning.

 

[Sodbuster]

Sure can