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T5 gasket problem

Post in 'The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces' started by sblat, Sep 4, 2012.

  1. sblat

    sblat Member

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    I opened up the door to the T5 yesterday and noticed that both the door and window gaskets are in need of replacing. I called the shop were I got the stove and they want $75 for both gaskets. That seems pretty high to me. Any one out there tell me what you have paid for your gaskets?

    Along the same line, I have never replaced a gasket before, pretty easy job? Any helpful hints/pointers to do a good job? Thanks for the help!

    Steve

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  2. madison

    madison Minister of Fire

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    Window gasket needs replaced as well??

    call tom @ chimneysweeponline.com you will get the OEM (graphite impregnated for the door -- i think) and proper adhesive. Not sure about the window...

    I've reglued my door gasket, with the wrong adhesive, with limited success.
  3. Highbeam

    Highbeam Minister of Fire

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    How did you determine that you needed new gaskets? My 5 year old heritage has original gaskets and I've used them enough to pump more than 25 cords of wood through the stove. Same old gaskets.

    Call Tom, he'll give you a proper price. I've had him drop ship me parts with no trouble.
  4. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

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    How does one wear out a window gasket in 5 yrs.?
  5. tfdchief

    tfdchief Minister of Fire

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    I replaced my door gasket after almost 20 years of use just because I thought I needed to. It really didn't make any difference. Never replaced a glass gasket before. As for your question, yes that seems high to me. I would check the size and then check around. You should be able to buy the sizes you need by the foot at many different places including most farm stores. Or just check the internet stove and hearth dealers. They all sell gasket material.
  6. Highbeam

    Highbeam Minister of Fire

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    The T5 is listed as a 2010 model so this stove has only seen two years of use.
  7. sblat

    sblat Member

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    My door gasket is hanging off the door. Can I just re-cement that. Just thought that I would replace the whole thing. Also, the window gasket does not have a snug fit with the glass. I would rather not redo it all if you guys have other suggestions. Thanks!

    Steve
  8. Treacherous

    Treacherous Minister of Fire

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    Wouldn't this be covered by PE's 5 year comprehensive warranty?

  9. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

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    I would try re-gluing the door gasket if it's still in good condition. Use a stove gasket adhesive, not a stove and gasket cement, and follow the directions.

    Take another look at the window gasket. It is only partially captive between the glass and door. The rest is outside of the glass and doesn't get clamped. It can flop over, but don't worry about it as long as half the gasket is captive. Take a picture if you think there is a problem area.
  10. sblat

    sblat Member

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    I will start there this weekend. I am asuming I acn pick up that adhesive at hardware or stove shop. As for the window, I will take another look. Thanks a lot for the help!

    Steve
  11. raiderfan

    raiderfan Feeling the Heat

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    Steve, you might want to post a pic of your gaskets and what you are seeing to this thread. I thought my gaskets needed replacing, (well the window one anyways), as it looked like it was peeling. However, once I posted a pic, people put me at ease and said it was normal.
  12. madison

    madison Minister of Fire

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    Adhesive is specific for graphite impregnated gaskets. Call chimneysweeponline for accurate info. Off the shelf rutland (non graphite) stuff did not work very well for me x ~ 3 tries over three yrs.

    I believe the window gasket is physically "pinched" between the glass and stove body and will look folded/wrinkled etc when viewed from "inside" -- just attach a picture for comments.
  13. Highbeam

    Highbeam Minister of Fire

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    Plus we like pictures.
  14. sblat

    sblat Member

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    Here are my pics. They are pretty close up. The first one is the door gasket. I would like to just re-adhesive this, if you guys think that will suffice. After looking at the window gasket, it looks like the right side has come loose from the glass. I can pull it completely away from the glass, so it is not in the right place. The other side, top and bottom have the gasket sitting tight between the door and the glass. I think I just need to take out the glass and reseat the gasket all the way around. What do you guys think? I know its hard to see by the pic.





    View attachment 73242 View attachment 73243
  15. sblat

    sblat Member

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    IMAG0004.jpg IMAG0005.jpg
  16. Shadow&Flame

    Shadow&Flame Minister of Fire

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    Mine was falling off in one place when it was installed...but the installer just glued it back in place. Quality control is not up to par for PE it would seem...
  17. djlarson77

    djlarson77 Member

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    I'm going to revive this forum instead of starting a new one (I'm open to comments on what folks prefer)

    Burning in the T5 for the fourth season and the door gasket was falling off at the top of the door, just like sblat's photo above. Like a dummy I used cement instead of adhesive, and probably too much of it. I also clamped it down. what I ended up with is a concrete-like gasket with no flexibility. It now miserably fails the dollar test at the top of the door. My questions are:

    1. Can I just cut the top part of the gasket off, scrape off the cement, and glue a piece in using the proper adhesive or do I need to replace the entire gasket...the remaining gasket is fine and passes the dollar bill test on the other three sides.

    2. If I do replace the entire gasket, any tips on how much adhesive to use and do I just shut the door to hold it in place while adhesive is drying?

    3. In PE owners manual, it indicates "requires only light pressure to seal. This will prolong the seal life" Huh? I assume they mean the door pressure as opposed to the pressure to hold gasket in place while drying? If it is the door pressure they're talking about, it seems to me a tighter door pressure would give a better seal. Out of the box the door pressure was too light and was causing leaks. Somebody on here suggested tapping the steel tab on the stove in, where the door latches. This worked well and gives me a good tight door pressure once the stove heats up.

    4. In the picture below, on the inside part of the door gasket, it looks like there is some kind of gasket union or connector that connects the two ends together. Do they sell these somewhere or can I just butt the ends together and hope for the best?

    Thanks,
    Dan

    IMG_1582.jpg
  18. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

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  19. djlarson77

    djlarson77 Member

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    Thanks BG, those two threads are immeasurably helpful. Please let me know what you find out about the splice availability, but based on his commentary it sounds like butting an end into a side snugly would work just fine.
  20. madison

    madison Minister of Fire

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    Replaced ours (T6) last month, using off the shelf 3/8" Rutland Graphite kit from Tractor Supply. The adhesive that came with the graphite kit is rated to a higher temp than the adhesive with the white rope gasket kit - and it has lasted where the other stuff quickly deteriorated.

    Set aside a couple hrs for the entire job: remove the door, a wire brush to remove the old glue. Applying the glue and new gasket was easier than I anticipated - using the instructions as Tom described in the links above. Rehanging the T6 door by myself was the toughest part of the job, and extra pair of hands would be beneficial for hanging the door.
    djlarson77 likes this.
  21. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

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    I think so. Use a good gasket cement adhesive and be sure to let it completely air dry before putting it into service.

    Madison, does the Rutland kit have the protective tape on the to-be-glued edge?
  22. djlarson77

    djlarson77 Member

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    You mean gasket adhesive ;)
  23. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

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    Right you are, thanks for catching that. Post corrected.
  24. madison

    madison Minister of Fire

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    Begreen-no it did not have the tape. The adhesive with the graphite kit was completely different than the stuff supplied with the non graphite kit that i purchased - only for the adhesive - to reglue the original gasket. That adhesive - when heated, turned to a styrofoam like substance and expanded - dried and crumbled. the adhesive with the graphite kit was like tar/caulk. I followed Tom's instructions for butting the two ends in the lower inside corner - and followed the mfg. instructions for working with the adhesive (dampen the gasket with a little water).

    DJ: One hour setting time prior to hanging the door, and gradually firing up the stove - per mfg instructions.

    So far, this one has held and shows no signs of coming free. Only had to readjust the door a bit, from ~ where it was previously hung.
  25. Hearth Mistress

    Hearth Mistress Minister of Fire

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    Cement vs adhesive? Am I using the wrong stuff?
    In the middle of Hurricane Sandy, with my stove going full blast, the top part of the gasket fell down in a similar fashion to the pics above. The fire started to go nuclear from all the extra air so I had to do something fast. I was already dampered down so i shoved a few extra pieces of gasket over the door a bit to hold it in place until the fire died down. I then used high temp silicon, all I had, to tack it back up and it was then ok. The next morning, I called my dealer/installer who just happens to have employees that live near me, so they delivered me 6ft of gasket and a tube of Rutland gasket & stove cement $15 total. I scrapped out all the old cement and red silicon from the night and installed the new gasket, no problems since. Is this the WRONG stuff? Why dies it say it's for gaskets? What's the difference between cement and adhesive?

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