Tell me what happened

[BucksCounty]

I am new to burning. This morning I loaded the stove, let the fire get going, and then dampered down (I have been reading on this forum that this is the best way to get the most heat/time out of a load). I noticed the fire was almost out, even with lots of red coals, so I opened the damper half way. A couple minutes later it caught, but with a big puff of smoke that came through the pipe connect to the stove. It is rear exiting with dvl connected to the chimney pipe. What happened? What did I do wrong?

 

[savageactor7]

Hi Bucks...when you 'damper down' you get a longer burn, like if you leave the house for a prolonged period. While you're in the house you burn for heat right? So let fire rip until it's either too warm for you or the stove top temp is too high. Then you can incrementally damper down to find the stoves sweet spot. btw this is a lot easier to do with an established bed of coals. Much harder to damper down a scratch fire. You'll get the hang of it after awhile.

 

[Tarmsolo60]

there was excessive wood gas from the new wood on the hot coals and no oxygen to burn it until you opened up the air and made a mini explosion.

 

[BucksCounty]

Thanks for the info. I thought my stove (hampton) was epa certified? I can pack it full of wood, right?

 

[LLigetfa]

Thanks for the info. I thought my stove (hampton) was epa certified? I can pack it full of wood, right?

so detail the specs on stove...

Many people put their stove model in their sig to save us guessing.

 

[begreen]

Would this be the H300 stove? That's a nice looking burner. We don't see many post for it, but from the sounds of things, the stove air was shut down too quickly. This allowed a large build of wood gases from the smoldering wood. When the air control was reopened, these gases ignited and explode. The phenomenon is call puffback. To avoid this, always burn fully seasoned dry wood. Semi seasoned wood will be more likely to smolder.

As the fire progresses, close down the air control in stages. Until the wood has fully outgassed and is in the coaling stage, the goal is to maintain a moderate secondary burn. So try getting a good strong fire going, then close the air control to maybe half. Wait about 5 minutes. If the fire is still very strong, close it down to maybe 1/4", observe again. Try to find the point at which the secondary burn (blue-orange flames erupting from under the upper baffle), become lazy, floating and almost ghostlike. That is often the sweet spot for good heat and long burns.

As for large loads of wood, that shouldn't be a problem once the stove is broken in. Normally I'd strongly recommend a stove top thermometer so that you get to know when the stove is burning right vs. too hot. But the top hob design of this stove means the top is going to be cooler than the body of the stove. It may still work, but I suspect that the top temps will be lower than average, especially if there's a blower on the stove. You may need to experiment with thermometer locations, to find a spot that gives the most meaningful reading.

 

[BucksCounty]

BG, Thanks for the response. It is the smaller, H200 stove. I understand what you are saying about the stove top and you are correct. I have been keeping the thermometer on the single wall rear exiting flue of the stove...hottest I have gotten it is 550 where as at the same time stovetop was only about 375. I have been experimenting with the stove and woodburning in general. Is 240 too hot for for the chimney pipe passing through the thimble? Everywhere I read, it says it is not to hot, but I am a newbie and a bit of a worrier. I installed with a person who installs stoves on the side, everything is to specs and it was inspected by township.

 

[begreen]

Great. Good to see the stove in your sig as well. How do you like it so far?

It's hard for me to say what is too hot or not with this stove. I have no experience with it. Typically the stove should be run below about 700 degrees. One thing to try if possible is running it with the hob top off for a while until I got used to it's normal operation and temperatures. Then you could have the thermometer right on the stove top. If that's possible I'd shoot for a stovetop temp range of 400-650, though you might find it spiking up to 700 with a fresh load of wood. After you are used to the stove's normal operating temperature, you can replace the hob top and put the thermometer back on it. The reading will be less, but relative to the prior reading. Alternatively, if there's a spot on the door or front of the stove where the thermometer can reside, then it may help to take readings there.

 

[SlyFerret]

keep an active flame so to avoid a possible smoke buildup in stove

I actually agree with this statement!

First time for everything, right?

-SF

 

[BucksCounty]

Great. Good to see the stove in your sig as well. How do you like it so far?

It's hard for me to say what is too hot or not with this stove. I have no experience with it. Typically the stove should be run below about 700 degrees. One thing to try if possible is running it with the hob top off for a while until I got used to it's normal operation and temperatures. Then you could have the thermometer right on the stove top. If that's possible I'd shoot for a stovetop temp range of 400-650, though you might find it spiking up to 700 with a fresh load of wood. After you are used to the stove's normal operating temperature, you can replace the hob top and put the thermometer back on it. The reading will be less, but relative to the prior reading. Alternatively, if there's a spot on the door or front of the stove where the thermometer can reside, then it may help to take readings there.

I do enjoy the stove!! I have been waiting a long time to get it. I will try removing the hob top as well as placing the thermometer on the door. What about the temp of the chimney pipe through the thimble?

 

[begreen]

What about the temp of the chimney pipe through the thimble?

Not sure. I've never had a thermometer on top of a horiz. section of pipe, only on vertical pipe. I can't really say how close to the actual flue gas temps it would be. What does it read if placed on the side of the flue pipe?