Yarzy said:
Thanks again for all the help! I will not be using the ash tray, only the side door. My "only" issue now is the fire itself. I am not sure if I am just using too wet of wood (25%), or I am doing something wrong, but it is taken me a good 45 min of messing with the logs, door, etc. in order to get a fire that will not go out in 5 min. Any tricks anyone can give?
Thanks!
Moisture content of 25% is too high, especially when starting a new fire. That is probably the biggest reason people struggle with enjoying their stoves. You can burn this wood, but you spend the first hour "seasoning" the wood in the stove (i.e., burning off the water). As mentioned above, use thin splits, 2x2; not big 4 x 4 or bigger. You can add a bigger split once you have hot coals. Some other tips:
-- arrange so that there is good air circulation around the splits (one way is to have some short splits that you put in North - South, i.e., front to back, and then put in another layer at 90 degs, East - West, side to side)
-- if you can get some dry wood or dry bio bricks, scrap kiln dried lumber, etc. to mix in, that will help
-- learn how to do a top down fire, search on the forum on the words "top down" (load your stove and then put the newspaper, super cedar, or other type of fire starter, and kindling ON TOP of the splits - it really works well to get the heat concentrated up at the burn tubes. The splits below will catch on faster than you think via radiation. Also, check out the Canadian video starting Vanessa. I was skeptical at first, but am now a "top down" true believer. Secondaries take off the faster because you don't have to get the whole load of wood, heated up, and burning, to get the top of the stove up to secondary burn temp.
-- buy wood for next year NOW and store it in a place that gets good sun and wind, uncovered - stack in an alternating orientation to allow good air circulation. (I struggled last winter getting my fires going, but not this winter because I now have two year old oak. I her that three year old oak (split and stacked) is even better.
-- stay one to two years ahead of when you plan to burn so you have wood < 20% MC.
The above tips can help you get through this winter. But by getting a year to two ahead, you won't be relying on someone's word that the wood you are buying is "seasoned." If you are cutting your own, it doesn't start really seasoning until it is split, so you really need to be two years ahead if your dealing with oak.
If you think it is fun now, wait until you have a few cords of really seasoned wood. I can easily have strong secondaries within 30 minutes, sometimes 20 minutes, especially on reloads with a good bed of coals. Light it up, two or three adjustments on the air control and it's cruising time. When it is well seasoned wood, you can also shut down the air control completely after the secondaries are well established. This is also a function of having a strong draft. I am running about a 24' insulated chimney liner and I have all the draft I need, sometimes too much (hot reloads), once the flue temp is up to 300 F.
So enjoy - Also, you certainly have created a lot of "hearth envy" here with that beauty.
