Post in 'The Pellet Mill - Pellet and Multifuel Stoves' started by MommyOf4, Dec 27, 2012.
Same thing keeps happening.
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How old is the stove? Under warranty? Call dealer.
If not, and you are fairly handy, you could try jumping the vac switch to narrow it down to that? More than likely is losing vacuum and Gasket may need "fluffed" or replaced.
Can you use your fingers or a pair of pliers (gently) to make the gasket fluffy (thicker) again. Over time they flatten out.
Jumping the vac switch will require you to unplug the stove and use a small piece of wire to make the switch think it has contact. (Dealing with Electricity here, if not able, then do not attempt).
By jumping the switch, does that mean the vacuum will constantly on?
That means the vac switch will think it has contact. The vacuum is created by the combustion blower?
The vac switch doesn't "Make" vacuum or do anything, other than tell the auger that there is sufficient vacuum (door is closed and gaskets are good.
I found the vacuum switch and made sure the wires were completely connected and wiped the dust or ash off of it and it's been on for a good 30 mins. I think I would rather have the dealer take a look at it before I mess with jumping it. It sounds like a safety feature to me or am I wrong?
It is a safety feature. You can safely bypass it if you're watching the stove, for long enough to see if it keeps burning. That would narrow the problem down to either a bad switch (not likely), or a lack of vacuum.
You say you found the switch; it has two wires and a tube attached to it. When the switch is engaged by vacuum created by the stove, it would be the same as connecting those two wires together. That is what a "jumper" would do, replicate the switch in an active state. This must be done carefully as one of those wires is live, which is why it's done with the stove unplugged.
The tube is what delivers the vacuum to the switch, and what I was referring to a page or so back. This tube can get plugged and block the vacuum to the switch, disabling it.
I can get to mine quite easily, and I pull it quite often and just blow through it to make sure it's clear. For clarity, the stove is off, and unplugged, and I pull the tube off of the switch, and just blow through it to make sure it's clear, then I reinstall, plug the stove back in, and I'm good to go.
If you do this it is important to keep track of where the tube was attached and where the wires were attached when you started so that you can make sure to put them back in the right place. If your memory is as bad as mine, take a picture. Did I say take a picture?
actually before jumping, take the tube loose at the switch and blow some air through it, i usually use "canned air" like you would blow out your computer with
I'm really missing the warmth of a pellet stove. It's just not the same as a heat pump (or electric heat...is it the same thing?)
What's your status? Waiting for repair person?
We have a repair person coming on Jan 8th, but I want to fix it if I can. It's going to cost $160 for the first 30 mins and $70 for each 30 mins after if it's not a warranty issue.
BTW, I noticed smoke coming from the elbow at top during the initial start up. After a few seconds it's gone. This just started happening as well when the stove started acting up. Is this normal?
NO! Smoke is not suppose to come from the elbow. You have a leak. What type of venting are you using?
Why don't you take a bunch of photos if everything you did; pipe, clean out, baffles, wiring etc. just put up a bunch, maybe someone will see something out of the ordinary. Cost is nothing!
Fyi that slekirk elbow needs slicone. Tech support advised me when I did my install, to put rtv high temp silicone around both joints on the elbow. Also check your stove adapater as well, they usually need some sealent as well
Can you isolate where on the 45 it is coming from? Is it at a joint or in the middle of the 45? Did you move this at some point when you were cleaning it? I don't have Selkrik VP myself but I'm sure someone that is watching this thread does and can tell you how to stop the leak. The important part is leaking of any sort in the venting system, especially in the house is bad.
This will not cause your stove to shut down.
It needs sealed up for your Safety (CO Kills) but q Pellet stove will run with No Venting hooked up.
The Feed gate being set to low, T/C placement, and ash trap door (bottom of pot) are my most likely guesses.
Have you tried to open the Gate ALL THE WAY?? If the stove doesn't get enough fuel? It will not start or stay running?
Try opening gate 100%. Set stove to Med or High and restart..... See what happens.
320 per hour ? lol then 140 per hour lol i would never pay the 2nd hour never mind the first
And us mechanics and shop owners get a bad rap at $90-95/hr.
I prefer to be robbed with a gun.
I found a bit of a gap where the tee cap is and I'm wondering if that could be the problem?
I haven't moved it to my knowledge. When our 2nd installers came out they said that it was mostly likely the lubricants burning off. Anyhow I'll make sure to get some silicone for it tomorrow.
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