The stove won't stay lit. Help!

MommyOf4 Posted By MommyOf4, Dec 27, 2012 at 6:34 PM

  1. MommyOf4

    MommyOf4
    Feeling the Heat

    Oct 4, 2012
    361
    23
    Loc:
    Southern MD
    Even with the gate open all the way the same thing happens.
     
  2. Dinger

    Dinger
    Burning Hunk

    Nov 23, 2011
    140
    33
    Loc:
    SW CO
    Any chance, (I can't see it as good as you) that cap is in wrong? Blocking the exhaust flow?

    That would sure shut it down after it gets started, if your tripping the #2 snap once it got hot. Plus, that might force exhaust into the outer wall, giving you this new leak you are experiencing.

    For the record, that thing is clean! Nice job.
     
  3. MommyOf4

    MommyOf4
    Feeling the Heat

    Oct 4, 2012
    361
    23
    Loc:
    Southern MD
    I've matched the hole on the cap with the hole on the vent and screwed it in place. This started happening after I cleaned out the tee
     
  4. Dinger

    Dinger
    Burning Hunk

    Nov 23, 2011
    140
    33
    Loc:
    SW CO
    Then troubleshooting must start RIGHT THERE!

    Check it out and good luck. Make sure the vacuum end or a rag or GI Joe or something obscure isn't hanging out in there. You're close, I feel it.
     
  5. MommyOf4

    MommyOf4
    Feeling the Heat

    Oct 4, 2012
    361
    23
    Loc:
    Southern MD
    Vacuum end?
     
  6. Dinger

    Dinger
    Burning Hunk

    Nov 23, 2011
    140
    33
    Loc:
    SW CO
    You know like from the ash vac or something. Just sayin'.. Check for anything.
     
  7. MommyOf4

    MommyOf4
    Feeling the Heat

    Oct 4, 2012
    361
    23
    Loc:
    Southern MD
    Here's a better picture for you and there wasn't anything in it. I put the cap in the same as before. There was nothing in it. I realized that the gap was from it being double something...I forgot what it was called. Sorry!
     

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  8. MommyOf4

    MommyOf4
    Feeling the Heat

    Oct 4, 2012
    361
    23
    Loc:
    Southern MD
    I hear something clicking when the fit starts to dim.
     
  9. DexterDay

    DexterDay
    Guest

    The venting, unless blocked, will not cause your problems...

    The cap can only go on one way, please silicone any leaks to prevent smoke spillage.

    Have you looked at the Termination cap? Is it plugged up?

    Otherwise, the issue is not vent related. A stove will run with No vent. The stove needs vacuum to run, the firebox is negative pressure and vent is positive. Vent only effects the stove if plugged. If your vent is clean and cap is clear, your problem is elsewhere.

    What setting are you running on?

    Have you double checked and triple checked the T/C and ensured that the tip (metal end) is touching the end of the ceramic cover?

    Unplug stove, then plug back in. What are the color of lights from control box? How many flashes of what color? After you do this, start stove and note the color of the lights from control box and how long into start up sequence that they change color.
     
  10. kinsmanstoves

    kinsmanstoves
    Minister of Fire

    Aug 29, 2007
    3,471
    499
    Loc:
    Ravenna, Ohio 44266

    Wow I need to adjust my rates.

    Eric
     
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  11. tjnamtiw

    tjnamtiw
    Minister of Fire

    Mar 9, 2009
    4,432
    725
    Loc:
    North Georgia
    Wow, is this guy a Chevy dealer mechanic as well???? That's nuts!
     
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  12. heat seeker

    heat seeker
    Minister of Fire

    Feb 25, 2011
    2,584
    386
    Loc:
    Northern CT
    I'm in the wrong business, he gets $140/hour? $160 to show up at the door for 30 minutes??? WOW!
     
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  13. stoveguy2esw

    stoveguy2esw
    Minister of Fire

    Nov 14, 2006
    6,168
    1,088
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    i have to agree, the repairman's pricing is just insane, i could see it if he had to drive for a few hundred miles but the rates are just stupid high fro what ive seen around the country for this type of work.

    have we checked to make sure the auger isnt slipping on the motor coupler? can we look up the drop chute with a mirror to ensure we dont have a blockage up there?

    im still also fixating on the vac switch as well, have we located the port where the switch gets its presssure and ensured it is clear of ash?
     
  14. mralias

    mralias
    Minister of Fire

    Apr 29, 2008
    962
    203
    Loc:
    MA
    Could be a source of a leak, however as Dexter has stated stove can run without venting. The venting is there so you won't fill your house with smoke and CO. That would not be a source of you original issue of the stove dying out.

    Based on the pics of the inside back of the stove everything looks real easy to get at. Not too sure what the other two pics are.
     
  15. kinsmanstoves

    kinsmanstoves
    Minister of Fire

    Aug 29, 2007
    3,471
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    Loc:
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    I am still betting on the gap in the door. Your stove is still under warranty so tell that dealer to hurry up. Refer to post #66.

    Eric
     
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  16. stoveguy2esw

    stoveguy2esw
    Minister of Fire

    Nov 14, 2006
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    hey eric , whats the "break point" or value of the vac switch on this stove?
     
  17. kinsmanstoves

    kinsmanstoves
    Minister of Fire

    Aug 29, 2007
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    Loc:
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    .05" wc
     
  18. kinsmanstoves

    kinsmanstoves
    Minister of Fire

    Aug 29, 2007
    3,471
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    That is just the metal flexing from heat change.

    Eric
     
  19. stoveguy2esw

    stoveguy2esw
    Minister of Fire

    Nov 14, 2006
    6,168
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    would just a light gap in the door gasket cause that switch to drop? usually with our stoves (same value on door switch) you have to crack the door about a 1/4 inch to get the switch to drop in most cases. where is the port the vac switch gets its pressure from? is it in the firebox area where it can be easily accessed?
     
  20. kinsmanstoves

    kinsmanstoves
    Minister of Fire

    Aug 29, 2007
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    the port is inside the auger tube, yes I am sure they can clog but never seen one clog. I will seen numerous doors fail the dollar bill test and cause the switch to stop the auger.

    Eric
     
  21. Woody1911a1

    Woody1911a1
    Feeling the Heat

    Sep 23, 2012
    445
    140
    Loc:
    Marblehead , Ma
    ok question , what are the dangers of over riding that switch ? other than protecting against people not having their door closed and latched .
     
  22. stoveguy2esw

    stoveguy2esw
    Minister of Fire

    Nov 14, 2006
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    really? inside the tube? what keeps pellet dust out of it? is it up at the top or something? seems a strange place to put one wouldnt be getting as much negative pressure there i'd think so i guess it would take less of a air leak at the door to drop it.

    interesting concept, might have to play with that some
     
  23. stoveguy2esw

    stoveguy2esw
    Minister of Fire

    Nov 14, 2006
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    its also protection against a large spillage of CO which would develop fast from a smoky lazy fire from a door being opened (latch failure)or the glass breaking by interrupting feed the amount of fuel already in the fire is all you would get thus the CO release would be greatly minimized over having more fuel being fed into a smoldering fire exposed to the home environment. it really is an important safety device and should only be overridden for test purposes when doing a monitored burn so that if something did arise a person could get the stove shut down
     
  24. DexterDay

    DexterDay
    Guest

    Lots of Quad threads every year from those who have plugged Vac nipples on the Auger chute. Was just one today.

    Normally takes 1-3 seasons (most 2-3) before they plug through. Not a new unit.
     
  25. stoveguy2esw

    stoveguy2esw
    Minister of Fire

    Nov 14, 2006
    6,168
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    pellet dust? wonder if we got a bag of punky pellets getting grinded up in the feed tube? i'd still take some canned air, disconnect the vac line at the switch and shoot the tube with air to clear it
     

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