Post in 'The Pellet Mill - Pellet and Multifuel Stoves' started by MommyOf4, Dec 27, 2012.
We do have silicone around the adapter. I'll make sure to get some silicone tomorrow for the elbow.
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Even with the gate open all the way the same thing happens.
Any chance, (I can't see it as good as you) that cap is in wrong? Blocking the exhaust flow?
That would sure shut it down after it gets started, if your tripping the #2 snap once it got hot. Plus, that might force exhaust into the outer wall, giving you this new leak you are experiencing.
For the record, that thing is clean! Nice job.
I've matched the hole on the cap with the hole on the vent and screwed it in place. This started happening after I cleaned out the tee
Then troubleshooting must start RIGHT THERE!
Check it out and good luck. Make sure the vacuum end or a rag or GI Joe or something obscure isn't hanging out in there. You're close, I feel it.
You know like from the ash vac or something. Just sayin'.. Check for anything.
Here's a better picture for you and there wasn't anything in it. I put the cap in the same as before. There was nothing in it. I realized that the gap was from it being double something...I forgot what it was called. Sorry!
I hear something clicking when the fit starts to dim.
The venting, unless blocked, will not cause your problems...
The cap can only go on one way, please silicone any leaks to prevent smoke spillage.
Have you looked at the Termination cap? Is it plugged up?
Otherwise, the issue is not vent related. A stove will run with No vent. The stove needs vacuum to run, the firebox is negative pressure and vent is positive. Vent only effects the stove if plugged. If your vent is clean and cap is clear, your problem is elsewhere.
What setting are you running on?
Have you double checked and triple checked the T/C and ensured that the tip (metal end) is touching the end of the ceramic cover?
Unplug stove, then plug back in. What are the color of lights from control box? How many flashes of what color? After you do this, start stove and note the color of the lights from control box and how long into start up sequence that they change color.
Wow I need to adjust my rates.
Wow, is this guy a Chevy dealer mechanic as well???? That's nuts!
I'm in the wrong business, he gets $140/hour? $160 to show up at the door for 30 minutes??? WOW!
i have to agree, the repairman's pricing is just insane, i could see it if he had to drive for a few hundred miles but the rates are just stupid high fro what ive seen around the country for this type of work.
have we checked to make sure the auger isnt slipping on the motor coupler? can we look up the drop chute with a mirror to ensure we dont have a blockage up there?
im still also fixating on the vac switch as well, have we located the port where the switch gets its presssure and ensured it is clear of ash?
Could be a source of a leak, however as Dexter has stated stove can run without venting. The venting is there so you won't fill your house with smoke and CO. That would not be a source of you original issue of the stove dying out.
Based on the pics of the inside back of the stove everything looks real easy to get at. Not too sure what the other two pics are.
I am still betting on the gap in the door. Your stove is still under warranty so tell that dealer to hurry up. Refer to post #66.
hey eric , whats the "break point" or value of the vac switch on this stove?
That is just the metal flexing from heat change.
would just a light gap in the door gasket cause that switch to drop? usually with our stoves (same value on door switch) you have to crack the door about a 1/4 inch to get the switch to drop in most cases. where is the port the vac switch gets its pressure from? is it in the firebox area where it can be easily accessed?
the port is inside the auger tube, yes I am sure they can clog but never seen one clog. I will seen numerous doors fail the dollar bill test and cause the switch to stop the auger.
ok question , what are the dangers of over riding that switch ? other than protecting against people not having their door closed and latched .
really? inside the tube? what keeps pellet dust out of it? is it up at the top or something? seems a strange place to put one wouldnt be getting as much negative pressure there i'd think so i guess it would take less of a air leak at the door to drop it.
interesting concept, might have to play with that some
its also protection against a large spillage of CO which would develop fast from a smoky lazy fire from a door being opened (latch failure)or the glass breaking by interrupting feed the amount of fuel already in the fire is all you would get thus the CO release would be greatly minimized over having more fuel being fed into a smoldering fire exposed to the home environment. it really is an important safety device and should only be overridden for test purposes when doing a monitored burn so that if something did arise a person could get the stove shut down
Lots of Quad threads every year from those who have plugged Vac nipples on the Auger chute. Was just one today.
Normally takes 1-3 seasons (most 2-3) before they plug through. Not a new unit.
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