The stove won't stay lit. Help!

pellet dust? wonder if we got a bag of punky pellets getting grinded up in the feed tube? i'd still take some canned air, disconnect the vac line at the switch and shoot the tube with air to clear it

Did you check all of the connections? Possible during cleaning that you loosened one.
Unplug stove first. Then check each wire connection (especially to the snap disks). Mine looked good but I found that the connectors were loose on one. Tightened it up and all is good.

Any news on the stove in this thread??

I checked the thermocouple and it's definitely on all the way. I checked the venting - no obstructions. Connections are tight. Vacuumed the entire stove. End result - Stove shuts down about 3-5 after the fan comes on. I still hear the clicking noise once the fan comes on. Reset button doesn't work once fan comes on.

That is because the negative pressure switch has the auger stopped. That is how the stove works.

Eric

So whats next? Pay the outrageous service charge?? Did they ever jump the vacuum switch??

What is the light sequence when you unplug and replug in the stove? What color and how many times?

Do not jump the vacuum switch if the door does not seal. Please refer to post #66 in this thread.

Eric

Has the vac line been cleared yet? I would do this asap and try firing up. First doing the dollar bill test around all of the door gasket.

Stupid question time; After you removed the baffles, cleaned behind them, and then reseated them the stove worked fine for a short period of time? How long was that for and have your tried reseating the baffles again in case something was/is loose?

Vac line?

It ran for a couple hours at the most and then it stopped. I'm thinking it's the gasket. I'm thinking about adding another washer to see if it will help it. Can someone tell me what kind of washer and where I need to put it? Thanks in advance.

The vac (vacuum) line is the tube that is connected to the vacuum switch you looked at. Its visible in your pic. Those get clogged once in a while and trick the switch. You can pull it off the switch and blow through it toward the stove to clear it.

Have you done this?

It's the black tube in the middle of the pic.

I haven't done this, but didn't see any tubes to the va switch. Maybe I was looking at the wrong thing?

The wire looking thing or the black round thing?

In the pic above, it's the black tubing right in the middle. It's coming in from the left side, and ends up right behind the middle red wire. If you unplug everything that attaches to the vacuum switch one at a time, you'll find it.

Once you find the tube, blow through it, use compressed air, or canned air. Just need to make sure it's clear, then reattach and try the stove. But if the door gasket fails the dollar bill test, then it still won't stay running.....get that door tightened up.

I talked to our repairman today and told him that our stove failed the dollar bill test. I wanted to make sure that he brought a snap disk and a gasket for the door and he said that since our stove is a new one, he doubts that it is the gasket issue. Something tells me that I will be frustrated tomorrow...

I suggest open carry vs. concealed carry of your sidearm tomorrow.

Eric

and out lots of cash

Have you seen new CAB50 with bad gaskets?

Its possible for any new stove (regardless of Manufacturer) to have a "Bad" part. Especially a gasket that is installed by an actual person.

Just because a part is/was new, the installation or adjustment could have been sub-par. Does the gasket have any obvious kinks, frawed parts, etc?
Wish I lived closer.

A little bit of fraying but not much.

If the repairman is coming have him check all of the connections. You might have slightly loosened one when cleaning. When the stove heats up, the metal will expand and a loose connection can open up. When it cools down the metal contracts and a connection can seem ok. Just trying to come up with any possible solutions.