Uncontrollable flame

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
it was never out of control ,just couldn't slow it down enough to make it burn properly. never could get those nice rolling flames
But you have no clue what temp anything is right?
 
Also, let the coal bed burn down a bit more before reloading unless a lot of heat is desired. A single 3" split on a thick hot coal bed is going to ignite and combust rapidly.
Will do! Was just chucking it on as needed to video it, too impatient to wait :D

How many logs should I be putting in a stove that size? I'm still experiementing and a bit hesitant to put a lot in due to the inability to control the flame...
 
But you have no clue what temp anything is right?
Well, they don't seem to specify max temps in the manuals anymore, they just say something like "don't overfire the stove...don't glow anything red." 😏
 
Last edited:
Well, they don't seem to specify max temps in the manuals any more, they just say something like "don't overfire the stove...don't glow anything red." 😏
Most never specified Temps previously either.
 
no all by eye
Why? Why not spend $30 or so to actually know how well your stove is running. To me running without a thermometer is like driving without a speedometer
 
Most never specified Temps previously either.
Woodstock used to, for soapstone stoves, but I'm not sure if they do in recent manuals, or if they do for their steel stoves.
I also recall looking at the manual for my BIL's VC Resolute, and it was 700 I think. I wonder if other cast stoves did, like the Jotuls?
To me running without a thermometer is like driving without a speedometer
I don't need a speedometer to know if I'm driving safely, it just tells me if I'm running the risk of getting a ticket. 😣 I really don't look at the speedo at all when I'm driving.
 
How many logs should I be putting in a stove that size? I'm still experiementing and a bit hesitant to put a lot in due to the inability to control the flame...
If you are in control of the burn, through cutting back the air earlier, using bigger splits, etc, you should be able to load any stove full.
I have more control with a cat stove--With it, I can cut the air so low that the fire goes out completely if I want to..
 
If you are in control of the burn, through cutting back the air earlier, using bigger splits, etc, you should be able to load any stove full.
I have more control with a cat stove--With it, I can cut the air so low that the fire goes out completely if I want to..
Okay but if I add anything after a burn, it just goes nuts even with the vents off. I took another video tonight but I don't know if I'll be killed on here for posting yet another video :D

For what its worth, the conversation and help thus far has been phenomenal, what a community, it's much appreciated.
 
do post that other video.
The more info you post the better (safety and operational) advice you're going to get.
 
Others will know better, but I don't think it's crazy. It's more active than I would think it should be, but not crazy.

I also think if you load the stove full, it'll be less wild.
 
Others will know better, but I don't think it's crazy. It's more active than I would think it should be, but not crazy.

I also think if you load the stove full, it'll be less wild.
Cool thanks.
WHat's the point in the vents then if they don't do anything!
The loading the stove more is the scary part... any issues if the flame is gigantic? Very new to this and don't want to set the aul house on fire.
 
works very well in my opinion, air travels from back to front this turbulence is normal, Furthermore, if you would have a weaker draft, the heat would not hit the front, and much less heat transferred, however you should monitor the temperature of the fumes, to understand how you are burning
 
  • Like
Reactions: scaryflame
works very well in my opinion, air travels from back to front this turbulence is normal, Furthermore, if you would have a weaker draft, the heat would not hit the front, and much less heat transferred, however you should monitor the temperature of the fumes, to understand how you are burning
So I got myself an IR temp gun (just landed today).
Fireplace looks like this - where would be the best place to point it?


I was measuring the side above the door and also near the top vent, show's the stove is 133c at moment
 
Right lads & lassies. We are all friends here correct?

So I've been doing some more testing. When I bought the last batch of wood (just a few bags) from the local fuel depot, I asked them if they could throw a few logs of oak in so I can see how it burns.

I just tried one there. Em. It burns a lot better and more controlled than what I have been burning.

So I looked up what I have been burning and it's birch... further googling suggets birch is a great starter but once it's gets going, need something a bit denser...
 
  • Like
Reactions: begreen
So I got myself an IR temp gun (just landed today).
Fireplace looks like this - where would be the best place to point it?


I was measuring the side above the door and also near the top vent, show's the stove is 133c at moment
basically, you should monitor the flue temperature as close as possible to the roof exit. Fumes should come out at 200 degrees celsius, (while you're burning wood, not consider when you only have coals ) so if you have single wall pipes you should have 100 c on the flue (consequently the fumes will be about double) in this way you will not have the risk of creosote accumulation, if temperatures are much higher you are wasting heat. I can't say about the temperature of the front, I don't know if it's a radiant or convective stove, this changes a lot outside temperature. I am also a neophyte, you will receive even more precise information, you are in the right place

Primary air open only in starting fire,
then close it completely
 
Last edited:
Cool thanks.
WHat's the point in the vents then if they don't do anything!
The loading the stove more is the scary part... any issues if the flame is gigantic? Very new to this and don't want to set the aul house on fire.
The point is to increase the impedance of the air flow that is being sucked into the stove by the physics of the chimney.

If your chimney sucks too hard, the air control of the stove won't be able to dial it down as much.

But again, it doesn't look worrisome. And with a fast burning wood, it's not out of the ordinary.

The oak may go slower, but be aware: oak needs a long time to dry and maybe this oak is too wet and that's why it goes slower... Now that (wet wood, burning slow) could result in chimney fires...
 
You burning peatmoss? I know its a fuel for stoves out that way. To me, the stove appears to be functioning just as intended, hit the stove top with the IR gun, should be between 550-700 deg f for best burn temp
 
Right lads & lassies. We are all friends here correct?

So I've been doing some more testing. When I bought the last batch of wood (just a few bags) from the local fuel depot, I asked them if they could throw a few logs of oak in so I can see how it burns.

I just tried one there. Em. It burns a lot better and more controlled than what I have been burning.

So I looked up what I have been burning and it's birch... further googling suggets birch is a great starter but once it's gets going, need something a bit denser...
Yes, birch is good for a quick warmer and starter fire, but the oak will burn longer and slower.
 
Yes, birch is good for a quick warmer and starter fire, but the oak will burn longer and slower.
Cool I'll be getting some in!

Thanks for all the help folks - put my mind at ease!
Last question for now - is this normal? The stove can rock when I have the door open. I rang the fitter and he said that can happen on that stove because the door is heavy but .. should it? Seems odd to me. He said it's bolted.

 
my floors are not even so i shimmed it with washers but mines free standing.i doubt it should have play like that with an insert.but whaat do i know about inserts not much but should be balanced
 
If it does that with the door open, but does not with the door closed, it seems like the latched door is giving it a lot of structural rigidity.