Uncontrollable flame

[scaryflame]

If it does that with the door open, but does not with the door closed, it seems like the latched door is giving it a lot of structural rigidity.

And thats... bad?

 

[EatenByLimestone]

I wouldn’t find it preferable, but it isn’t necessarily bad. Is your stove welded steel or cast iron? I’d be more worried if it’s cast iron as that might mean joints were flexing. If the joints are flexing, leaks could form. If it’s steel, it’s flexing a bit, and that means the panels are on the thinner side, It still might last 20 years, or it might not.

 

[scaryflame]

I wouldn’t find it preferable, but it isn’t necessarily bad. Is your stove welded steel or cast iron? I’d be more worried if it’s cast iron as that might mean joints were flexing. If the joints are flexing, leaks could form. If it’s steel, it’s flexing a bit, and that means the panels are on the thinner side, It still might last 20 years, or it might not.

So it is a cast iron. It's cast iron and then it has a stell box around it.
Slight squeak off the door recently as well..

 

[EatenByLimestone]

A little graphite powder will fix the door squeak.

Its interesting you have a cast iron stove with a steel surround. Over here it's usually either cast iron or steel. Some steel stoves have a cast iron cladding.

I'd have the dealer out to look at a cast iron stove. I wouldn't want the panels moving around.

 

[joop]

watching your video i don't see anything wrong with your burn,the fact that you only have a few splits is making the the flames shoot up to ignite the secondaries .your fire is rolling slow like it should.to hot now to load full but when you do you'll see the difference

 

[scaryflame]

watching your video i don't see anything wrong with your burn,the fact that you only have a few splits is making the the flames shoot up to ignite the secondaries .your fire is rolling slow like it should.to hot now to load full but when you do you'll see the difference

Thanks Joop! You're right, I'm not getting the stove hot enough anyway, I'm only putting in two small logs plus kindling to start, then I top it up with 1 or 2 logs at a time. I see people here who have their stoves packed but I'd be afraid I'd set the house on fire!

Any videos to explain the "fire is rolling slow" - I am not sure what to look out for / how ou know the secondaries etc

 

[TomMcDonald]

Thanks Joop! You're right, I'm not getting the stove hot enough anyway, I'm only putting in two small logs plus kindling to start, then I top it up with 1 or 2 logs at a time. I see people here who have their stoves packed but I'd be afraid I'd set the house on fire!

Any videos to explain the "fire is rolling slow" - I am not sure what to look out for / how ou know the secondaries etc

I too have been experiencing an issue with high temps - I have some videos in this thread with what I consider to be good burns. https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/flue-damper-for-stove-with-marginal-draught.198624/

Like others have said, if you fill your firebox up with a larger volume of denser hardwoods you should be right. The wood should burn slower and shouldn't burn all at once - usually the fire will move from front to back consuming the wood as it goes.

Cheers,

Tom.

 

[joop]

have you ever watched a bonfire,thats a free burn no control now remember that when you look at your stove once you shut air you will see the fire start slowing down flames skid along top on secondaries

 

[scaryflame]

Ah I might experiment with more logs in it tonight!

Might as well keep all my stupid questions in this thread - I just went out and bought 3 firebricks to put at the bottom of the stove on top of the grate(it's a multifuel). Two fit perfectly and I needed to cut the third. Needless to say, I don't have the correct tools and it didn't go two well.

I currently have two fire bricks, 2 kind of halves and another bit just sitting there waiting to get a fire lit on top of it.
Any issues with that? From what I read cracked firebricks are an issue because it means the heat can penetrate what is behind it but in my case, it shouln't make a difference as I can burn directly on the grate anyway.

Thoughts?

 

[stoveliker]

I don't see an issue with that. The cracks of this (second layer?) bricks will fill up with ashes anyway.

 

[scaryflame]

I don't see an issue with that. The cracks of this (second layer?) bricks will fill up with ashes anyway.

Cracks is putting it VERY lightly. I'm talking I just have a piece in there the size of a matchbox for example to plug a hole.
Should be grand though, the bricks protect the stove right? Well my stove is a multifuel so I just burn the wood on top of the grate without.
Good idea on ash, going to empty my ash pan onto the bricks...

 

[stoveliker]

Can you not take the grate out?

 

[EatenByLimestone]

Fill the bottom below the grate with ash or sand.

 

[joop]

there's no such thing as a stupid question when your learning better to ask and put your mind at ease

 

[joop]

you should try it with a full load before you put the bricks in grate ,see if it burns ok.if you feel that the stove is getting out of control ,slowly open stove door and the fire will calm down.

 

[scaryflame]

you should try it with a full load before you put the bricks in grate ,see if it burns ok.if you feel that the stove is getting out of control ,slowly open stove door and the fire will calm down

It's only a small room (4mx4m) and it's not that cold.. I'll chuck a few extra I'm just curious to see if the brick makes any difference.

there's no such thing as a stupid question when your learning better to ask and put your mind at ease

Thanks I appreciate that, I was only semi-serious :D

Fill the bottom below the grate with ash or sand.

Good suggestion, the grate below is almost full of ash just thought the bricks would speed it up a bit. It's not going to break it right :D?

Can you not take the grate out?

In truth, I don't know! I can take a look, only thing is I'd need to see if I could burn on the bottom of the stove. Or are you suggesting take the grate out, place firebricks down and then burn away?

 

[joop]

if it gets to hot open some windows i really don't think you have a problem,it's just a new stove you have to get used to it

 

[joop]

i thought in europe you guys like to hug the planet,why are they still selling coal stoves?

 

[scaryflame]

i thought in europe you guys like to hug the planet,why are they still selling coal stoves?

hahah. We do, they are mostly phased out now, I just got one of the last ones. Bit stupid considering I only want to burn wood!

 

[scaryflame]

Tomorrow, I'll take a photo of my starting fire setup and then first load. Give ye a good aul laugh at how little I'm putting in it. Then I will take on whatever advice ye give...

And thanks again - what a community!

 

[begreen]

The trouble with coal/wood stoves is the same as with a Swiss army knife. It can do many things, but none as well as a dedicated tool.

 

[stoveliker]

In truth, I don't know! I can take a look, only thing is I'd need to see if I could burn on the bottom of the stove. Or are you suggesting take the grate out, place firebricks down and then burn away?

If you have bricks on the bottom, then surely there is no problem for the stove to take the grate out and burn on that brick floor.

If you don't have bricks on the bottom, then a layer of ash may help, but I'm not entirely sure about burning on the bare steel bottom.

Most wood stoves advocate anyway to burn on a layer of ashes, i.e. to not clean the stove out completely.

 

[begreen]

If you have bricks on the bottom, then surely there is no problem for the stove to take the grate out and burn on that brick floor.

If you don't have bricks on the bottom, then a layer of ash may help, but I'm not entirely sure about burning on the bare steel bottom.

Most wood stoves advocate anyway to burn on a layer of ashes, i.e. to not clean the stove out completely.

It definitely needs protection. I have seen more than one F602 base burned out because the user liked to clean the stove too often and didn't keep the recommended 1" of sand over the base. And that is with heavy cast iron.

 

[stoveliker]

Also, if you take out the grate and add bricks, fill the ashpan, full, and just scoop out the ashes from the stove instead of using the ashpan if you have to clean up the stove. If you don't have enough ashes to fill the ashpan, use (dry) sand to fill the ashpan.

 

[scaryflame]

The trouble with coal/wood stoves is the same as with a Swiss army knife. It can do many things, but none as well as a dedicated tool.

Yep agreed. Some day I'll get a wood only stove but until then, I can only make do with what I have right now

If you have bricks on the bottom, then surely there is no problem for the stove to take the grate out and burn on that brick floor.

If you don't have bricks on the bottom, then a layer of ash may help, but I'm not entirely sure about burning on the bare steel bottom.

Most wood stoves advocate anyway to burn on a layer of ashes, i.e. to not clean the stove out completely.

I dont have bricks on the bottom. It goes grate, ash tray and then underneath that is the bottom of the stove. I put in the bricks myself today on top of the grate.

It definitely needs protection. I have seen more than one F602 base burned out because the user liked to clean the stove too often and didn't keep the recommended 1" of sand over the base. And that is with heavy cast iron.

Also, if you take out the grate and add bricks, fill the ashpan, full, and just scoop out the ashes from the stove instead of using the ashpan if you have to clean up the stove. If you don't have enough ashes to fill the ashpan, use (dry) sand to fill the ashpan.

Right so ye are both saying to remove the grate.. I might try that and put bricks down but I'd need to find a way to cut the firebrick properly first (dont have a chopsaw).