Upgrading old Franklin to Jotul Oslo - Many Questions

[begreen]

Is there any way of opting for a differnt stove? Say a top loader? Did you know the VC Encore and Defiant uses 8" connector pipe and are top loading? You might be able to re -use that 8" double wall pipe and be able to situate such a stove better in your location?
Harman also makes a top loader

Quad does too and there is the new Lopi Leyden. Or a PE stove would fit fine.

 

[senorFrog]

According to your manual you need 59" between the brick side walls just to fit that stove in.
16" side loading door required by code and can not be reduced the stove is about 29" wide and 14 " required fron the othe side wall opposite the door wall Total 59" I counted your bricks and motar joints and its going to be a real close call there

Elk, Thanks for going through all that trouble.

The hearth is 65 inches wide. Oslo is 28.25 inches wide. That leaves me with 18.25 inches on either side of the stove. I measured the door wide open at the store and it will open fine.

Re another stove, I already ordered and paid for an Oslo.

 

[begreen]

Ah, that should work then. You have more than the minimum 18" door side space required. It sounds like you even have a little wiggle room if you want more space on the door side. When do you get the stove? Looks like the cat is waiting for you to fire it up.

 

[MountainStoveGuy]

the oslo including clearances needs 56" total width. Plenty of space

 

[senorFrog]

Looks like the cat is waiting for you to fire it up.

That cat doesn't move from that spot all winter long. I think he'll like it even more with the Jotul. Dealertold me about a week to get from warehouse into store. I'll pick it up (have truck, good aluminum ramps and hopefully a few friends ) and install myself.

After I get that in and the old one out, I'll measure and order new stove pipe. Any recommendations? No one around me seems to carry Duravent DVL double wall.

 

[senorFrog]

Guy's, Another question re this installation...

I got a quote from a reputable installer to change over to six inch double wall, two 45's and connect to masonry chimney. Everything has to be replaced including the stainless which is just class A and not up to code. Quote is about $1,200.

As luck would have it the roof directly above the wood stove in the picture needs to be replaced ASAP. It is a flat roof. I already have a quote for replacement. I was thinking to convert over to Class A chimney pipe. I.e. Come off stove go straight up and out the roof. I think it would add some cost, but may be a better solution.

Should I convert to Class A? If I were to conver to Class A do that first, then replace roof, right? Also, any opinions and suggestions appreciated.

 

[MountainStoveGuy]

Going strait up in the proper sized flue will almost always be better then having 90*'s going in a larger flue then designed, IMO. As far as when you do it, i would think that it would be best before the new roof is on, but not critical. People retro stoves in there homes all the time and a good installation wont leak.

 

[ChrisN]

would you then have two chimney's located pretty close to each other: the original masonry one, and the new one? you might have to consider extending the height on the new chimney for code compliance. also, from an aesthetic point of view, you wouldn't mind two chimneys located so close together?

 

[senorFrog]

would you then have two chimney's located pretty close to each other: the original masonry one, and the new one? you might have to consider extending the height on the new chimney for code compliance. also, from an aesthetic point of view, you wouldn't mind two chimneys located so close together?

I'd def demo the masonry chimney myself. It only jets up about six feet off the flat roof right now. Have the roofer patch it when he's here.