USSC 6039

[Egl3]

So between me and my father we have had this 6039 corn burner for several years. Last year it needed some maintenance so i gave it some love. This year I can't get it to stay lit... the major component I replaced was the exhaust blower as it was rusted out and leaking. Then a fire brick matched with a good cleaning. Since I replaced the blower I can't seem to keep the thing lit. I use wood pellets and starting jell to get er going on setting 2 and it will run for about 15 minutes (or untill my wood pellets run out) important note i run discard seed as my dad did before me and the guy that owned it before him did. The gasket on the door looks good. I have a good draft going, burner box is a little worn but I dont see a need to replace it yet. My corn is 13% which is a little high. Feed on one and blower on 3 as years past. I did bump it up in interval with no change (draft fan) it just seems like the flame quits. I'll have a good fire and orange glow, then fire quits and the glow in under a minute (still drafting) im at a loss here.

When I first plug it in the screen reas 1,3,6
I have a older abc button control board. Any insight is appreciated! TIA

 

[ARC]

When I first plug it in the screen reas 1,3,6

Is that 1 3 b (lower case b) which would be the first version of the abc board? 13% is higher moisture but the stove should burn up to 14%, I would either try a dryer corn or maybe mix a quarter hopper of 50/50 pellet corn mix and put it a bottom of hopper fill the rest with corn. That would give the fire time to get hot enough to burn the 13% corn. Depending on the price of propane/natural gas to run grain dryer it might be more cost effective to buy a ton of pellets and do a 25% pellet mix. I have not burned straight corn in the last 10 years burned straight corn for the first 3 years. Had to do a lot of tweaking to get straight corn to burn in the original stir pot a lot easier with the pellet mix. FirePotPete replace his stir pot with a clinker pot and it works much better and SideCarFlip has gotten his stove tuned in. If SideCarFlip gives you some advice about burning corn listen to him.

After you light the fire open the door does the draft fan ramp up?

Do you have the manual slide draft?

Do you have fresh air kit installed?

 

[johneh]

Does the auger feed fule to the burn pot after you light it?
Or is it just the pellets you put in burning?

 

[Egl3]

Is that 1 3 b (lower case b) which would be the first version of the abc board? 13% is higher moisture but the stove should burn up to 14%, I would either try a dryer corn or maybe mix a quarter hopper of 50/50 pellet corn mix and put it a bottom of hopper fill the rest with corn. That would give the fire time to get hot enough to burn the 13% corn. Depending on the price of propane/natural gas to run grain dryer it might be more cost effective to buy a ton of pellets and do a 25% pellet mix. I have not burned straight corn in the last 10 years burned straight corn for the first 3 years. Had to do a lot of tweaking to get straight corn to burn in the original stir pot a lot easier with the pellet mix. FirePotPete replace his stir pot with a clinker pot and it works much better and SideCarFlip has gotten his stove tuned in. If SideCarFlip gives you some advice about burning corn listen to him.

After you light the fire open the door does the draft fan ramp up?

Do you have the manual slide draft?

Do you have fresh air kit installed?

It very well could be a b not a 6. I could try drying it down some more with just a fan and air movement if I built a box for it. Jist takes time. Stirring it in a dryer would be the challenge I think if I tried heat. I will give the wood pellets a try.

I have not tried that with the draft fan ramping up and door open or noticed, no manual draft, and no FAK I figured my garage had enough holes to pull air exchange in. And hasn't been a issue in the past.

 

[Egl3]

Does the auger feed fule to the burn pot after you light it?
Or is it just the pellets you put in burning?

Auger feeds. And seems to be enough fuel as it loads up.

It acts like it goes out (with corn feeding in) as the pellets burn out

 

[ARC]

no manual draft, and no FAK I figured my garage had enough holes to pull air exchange in. And hasn't been a issue in the past.

I only asked so we know what your set up is like, stove does run well with no fak and manual damper is a convenience not a necessity.

From the operators manual: NOTE: If the starting fuel is not burning hot enough, you may see the fire begin to go out as new fuel is being added. If this occurs, pressing the “C” button will allow the auger to pause for 1 minute. Pressing the “ON” button will resume the auger if 1 min. is to long. If not enough fuel is the reason for not burning, pressing and holding the “ON” button will allow the auger to run
continuosly until you release the button.

 

[Egl3]

I only asked so we know what your set up is like, stove does run well with no fak and manual damper is a convenience not a necessity.

From the operators manual: NOTE: If the starting fuel is not burning hot enough, you may see the fire begin to go out as new fuel is being added. If this occurs, pressing the “C” button will allow the auger to pause for 1 minute. Pressing the “ON” button will resume the auger if 1 min. is to long. If not enough fuel is the reason for not burning, pressing and holding the “ON” button will allow the auger to run
continuosly until you release the button.

Understood. Sorry if im coming across wrong just trying to give as much detail as I can in my answer. It was my understanding the FAK had to do some with negative pressures in a home. Along with having cooler air for combustion. I didnt think this was my issue but not sure tboughtbi would share location of corn stove and the building its in.

Going back to the manual damper would putting some tape on my draft pipe reduce that some? Or is that a wrong move? I did try a wood pellets mix and it seems to be doing well. But I'm having good ash build up on the side of the fire box and not much in the catch bin below (alot of groun oyster meal though)

I also saw that about the auger pause and over/under feed.

A button is feed time and B is for exhaust motor speed correct?

I was also unable to tell a difference in the exhaust blower when the door is open/close

 

[ARC]

A button is feed time and B is for exhaust motor speed correct?

Correct

I was also unable to tell a difference in the exhaust blower when the door is open/close

Can really only hear it ramp up when you first start fire before the room blower kicks on. Light fire, close door then open door and draft should ramp up. Doing so just lets you know Draft fan and vacuum switch are working.

 

[Egl3]

Correct



Can really only hear it ramp up when you first start fire before the room blower kicks on. Light fire, close door then open door and draft should ramp up. Doing so just lets you know Draft fan and vacuum switch are working.

Been a couple days since I had time to get it going again. I can not hear a difference. I did get it to stay lit with the wood pellet mix but snuffed when I turned my air back down to 3 so I'm going to try again and leave it at 4.

I am getting a considerable amount of ask in the burn box. I do not recall this being normal. Is this due to much draft? Stir had a small Klinker on it

 

[SidecarFlip]

Your corn is too high in RM. Why it's rusting out in the first place, that and the residual nitric acid you leave inside during the warm months because you don't run straight pellets for a few days prior to turning it off and I bet you don't clean it end of season either. beater units don't survive.

 

[Egl3]

Your corn is too high in RM. Why it's rusting out in the first place, that and the residual nitric acid you leave inside during the warm months because you don't run straight pellets for a few days prior to turning it off and I bet you don't clean it end of season either. beater units don't survive.

Thats part of the reason I'm here to try figuring out exactly whats wrong. You are correct I do not run strait pellets at the end of the year. Didnt know I needed to or should. As far as cleaning it I do actually clean it out when I'm done with it for the season. I did when my dad ran it as well. And i reinspect it in the fall before i use it in case something decided to move in. All we really had to go off was the info the gentlemen before us gave us on how he ran it so thats how we have run it. But it does get cleaned same with the chimney.

We have had it for 12 years and it's needed nothing but the blower fan untill this last fall and a fire brick. (It also didn't get used for 2 seasons)

Is there anything other than trying to find a way to dry my corn you can suggest to try? Or something I need to change?

 

[Egl3]

Your corn is too high in RM. Why it's rusting out in the first place, that and the residual nitric acid you leave inside during the warm months because you don't run straight pellets for a few days prior to turning it off and I bet you don't clean it end of season either. beater units don't survive.

To put a timeline down a bit that may help explain the tread.. We bought this unit used when I was 13 (well my dad did) we put it in along with a new chimney at that point and ran it together for the next 5 years and I did as he instructed me as they guy instructed him. I moved out at 18 to go to college. He moved out 4 years after that and the furnace sat idle for 3 years (sorry) I moved back into the house this last spring and tore back into it to clean it and get it running. A mouse had built a nest in the burn box and where the exhaust blower is. I got it all cleaned out. Ordered a new blower assembly and fire brick , after a good clean. I use a dryer brush to clean behind the burn box wall, vacume it out, and then use compressed air, Vacume again. Start to finish i take just over a hour to clean it. And make sure i got everything. I have started a wood pellet mix this year as stated above. No major rust except the exhaust blower I replaced. It sits out in a old garage.

 

[SidecarFlip]

Go to the top of this page and read the forum Wiki under USSC stoves for starters. I have no idea where you get your corn from but it needs to be below 15% RM, preferably below 12%. I would suggest getting it from your local elevator as it's guaranteed to be below 15% because stored corn has to be or it molds in storage. Corn out of the field, is a big NO. One, it's dirty and two, it's almost always over 15%.

Wet corn produces excessive nitric acid vapor which is what is destroying the stove.

I could go on for pages but I have to say, I get tired of posting the do's and do not's over and over when the search feature on this forum will take you to many posts concerning the proper way to combust corn, the required maintenance when burning corn and the correct storage of corn for burning.

Maybe some other corn burning posters like Firepot Pete or Rona wants to elaborate. Me, I'm about at my limit of posting the same stuff over and over again.

 

[Egl3]

Go to the top of this page and read the forum Wiki under USSC stoves for starters. I have no idea where you get your corn from but it needs to be below 15% RM, preferably below 12%. I would suggest getting it from your local elevator as it's guaranteed to be below 15% because stored corn has to be or it molds in storage. Corn out of the field, is a big NO. One, it's dirty and two, it's almost always over 15%.

Wet corn produces excessive nitric acid vapor which is what is destroying the stove.

I could go on for pages but I have to say, I get tired of posting the do's and do not's over and over when the search feature on this forum will take you to many posts concerning the proper way to combust corn, the required maintenance when burning corn and the correct storage of corn for burning.

Maybe some other corn burning posters like Firepot Pete or Rona wants to elaborate. Me, I'm about at my limit of posting the same stuff over and over again.

I am burning reject seed corn, clean and no debris. From the first 6 bags I've opened my highest bag averaged 13.9. They have all been closer to 13.0-13.3 Ill keep looking around on the forum I just wasn't finding what I was looking for.

 

[SidecarFlip]

My ONLY COMMENT on burning 'reject seed corn' is I sincerely hope you have the exhaust end of your venting located high up and out of the air you breathe (or anyone else breathes) for that matter because the pesticide / herbicide treatment on seed corn will KILL you and CAUSE NERVOUS SYSTEM DISORDERS if you breathe it (exhaust from the stove). It will also cause birth defects in unborn children.

Combusting seed corn is really a no-no unless specific precautions are followed and that is, NEVER BREATHE THE EXHAUST FROM THE STOVE, EVER AND EXHAUST IT AWAY FROM ANY CHANCE OF A HUMAN OR ANIMNAL INHAILING THE EXHAUST FUMES.

Finally, I would never comment about doing that on any public forum. The EPA really frowns on that practice and you never know who is reading your posts. If the EPA got wind of that, they would fine you like no tomorrow.

 

[Ssyko]

i thought that stuff had to go to landfills and couldn't be sold? just what i read no corn burners around here

 

[SidecarFlip]

i thought that stuff had to go to landfills and couldn't be sold? just what i read no corn burners around here

That is exactly correct. It's hazardous waste and off grade (no germ seed corn) cannot be legally sold. It must be disposed of in an approved hazardous waste landfill.

No germ seed corn is this...

Seed corn, to be viable, must germinate at a 95% rate or better by volume and every pallet or supersack of it is tested for viability on a regular basis but the benchmark is, any seed corn not sold the following year (after harvest, drying and inoculation) is considered not viable and must be destroyed or buried in an approved landfill. The problem arises with the inoculation of the herbicide / pesticide coating on the kernels. That is what makes them hazardous waste and an inhalation hazard far as the off gassing is concerned.

Why I commented about the height of the exhaust venting and the proximity to humans and inhalation. That stuff will kill you if breathed in any concentration. Burning seed corn without adequate exhaust requirements is an invitation for disaster, plain and simple and why manufacturers of biomass (corn capable) stoves caution against it. they all do if you care to read the owners manual but then you and I know the answer to that....

I will say that at the current market price of GMO seed corn (averaging 300 bucks per 50 pound sack), the guy has the highest buck corn stove around.

 

[SidecarFlip]

I'm very surprised he actually has a stove left. Between the off gassing of the pesticide / herbicide coating and the residual nitric acid vapors left in the stove during the off season, I'm surprised the firebox hasn't rotted away and not just the exhaust fan plenum. One of the absolute worst things you can do with any corn burner is finish out with corn and not run a week or so of straight hardwood pellets in it before shutting it down in the spring.... and run it hard too.

You have to remove the residual nitric acid vapors from the stove and the venting or they will corrode everything over the warm, humid summer months. Moisture as in higher RH and nitric acid vapors makes a nice corrosive medium and it loves to eat steel and the residual chemicals from the kernel coating adds even more corrosion,

Been roasting corn for over 20 years now and I finally had to replace my clean out Tee this fall because the outer jacket got a hole in it, not the liner and that was caused by the stainless worm clamp I secure the Tee to my standoff with, not nitric acid eating the venting.

 

[Egl3]

My ONLY COMMENT on burning 'reject seed corn' is I sincerely hope you have the exhaust end of your venting located high up and out of the air you breathe (or anyone else breathes) for that matter because the pesticide / herbicide treatment on seed corn will KILL you and CAUSE NERVOUS SYSTEM DISORDERS if you breathe it (exhaust from the stove). It will also cause birth defects in unborn children.

Combusting seed corn is really a no-no unless specific precautions are followed and that is, NEVER BREATHE THE EXHAUST FROM THE STOVE, EVER AND EXHAUST IT AWAY FROM ANY CHANCE OF A HUMAN OR ANIMNAL INHAILING THE EXHAUST FUMES.

Finally, I would never comment about doing that on any public forum. The EPA really frowns on that practice and you never know who is reading your posts. If the EPA got wind of that, they would fine you like no tomorrow.

Who said anything about it being coated? I just stated it is reject. Bad seed. Not fit to be used. But since we are on the topic my exhaust is through the roof 20' off ground level. I think I found my problem. Which has to be with my new blower making a heavier draft then before. So as I've been adjusting on the high side I should have turned it down.

To state again my seed isn't Coated. Its just bad seed with no germ. Thanks for pointing out the wood pellet as we didn't know to do that. Once again the burner gets cleaned at the end of the season minus running wood pellets.

 

[SidecarFlip]

Who said anything about it being coated? I just stated it is reject. Bad seed. Not fit to be used. But since we are on the topic my exhaust is through the roof 20' off ground level. I think I found my problem. Which has to be with my new blower making a heavier draft then before. So as I've been adjusting on the high side I should have turned it down.

To state again my seed isn't Coated. Its just bad seed with no germ. Thanks for pointing out the wood pellet as we didn't know to do that. Once again the burner gets cleaned at the end of the season minus running wood pellets.

I don't buy into your comment. Makes no sense. I'm a farmer and have been for a long time.

There is no such thing as no germ corn at least corn harvested for processing into food products or corn alcohol production. Germination rate is inconsequential as in not important.

No 'germ' corn always refers to seed corn as it's the only corn ever tested for germination capabilities and all seed corn is coated with herbicide / pesticide. That is SOP in the business so your comment about 'no germ' corn is baseless as it's never tested for germination rate unless it's seed corn, no exceptions.

I know the parameters really well. One of my good friends is a huge seed corn producer so I know how that plays.

Seed corn is coated as soon as it's de-cobbed and dried down to less than 12%. The very next process is to sample it for germ rate and then coat it and tank it for eventual bagging. The only time low germ rate corn is discarded is when the germ rate falls below 95% and by then it's either bagged or in supersacks.

You might fool someone who isn't in the business or understands the process but, that isn't me.

I know what you are roasting and so do you and that is the reason your unit is corroding.

There is no such thing as bad seed with as you say 'no germ' which is in fact under 95% total germination rate. Normal for food or corn alcohol corn is NEVER tested for germination rate. Id's not germane to the end use. Only seed corn is....

If I was doing what you are (and I know what you are doing), I'd never allude to it on any public forum.

I'll leave it at that.