VC Resoute Acclaim 2490 - looking for . . . Help!

[hondochica]

Greetings

I recently acquired a Resolute Acclaim 2490 to install in a manu home - in place of the 'soon to be torn out' fireplace. I searched "RA"s here and found 18 pages! Sorry - but it would take me hours and hours to scroll through 18 pages of "I shouldn't have bought this stove!" ;-))

I have the stove half taken apart already: cleaning some rust out, installing all new gaskets, might need some stove cement in places. 1 rear brick is cracked; replaced right side brick. accidentally punched a small hole in the top of the combustion package - hope I don't have to replace it (thought it was just soot on some hard surface). I downloaded the manual - fyi - so I have some reference material.

My first Qs are:

1) should I purchase the Outside Air Kit for this stove; as I am in a manu home (not very well sealed) I would like to keep drafts to a minimum and maximize heat. As I will have to do some work on the floor for heat protection - best to install the OAK Before I lay the tile!

2) was reading somewhere about 'negative pressure', and 'stack effect' - have no idea what this means - could you provide me some links to minimize search/learn time

3) is it worth consulting w/ a local chimney/wood stove guy/gal? I'm hoping s/he can guide me through the install: assess whether I can use the existing chimney etc

4) my manual talks about a 'positive connection kit' when using an existing fireplace chimney - but I can't figure out if that is for a 'fireplace insert' or 'freestanding' stove. My intent is a free-standing stove that vents through the existing chimney - which looks like an 8" pipe (as seem from the roof). The entire fireplace will be gone and wall(s) reconfigured. What is a 'positive connection kit' - other than stove pipe?

Any other (supportive) musings/info is greatly appreciated

Thanks for your time!

Kelly
(needing cheap heat in the high rockies)

 

[DAKSY]

Greetings

I recently acquired a Resolute Acclaim 2490 to install in a manu home - in place of the 'soon to be torn out' fireplace. I searched "RA"s here and found 18 pages! Sorry - but it would take me hours and hours to scroll through 18 pages of "I shouldn't have bought this stove!" ;-))

I have the stove half taken apart already: cleaning some rust out, installing all new gaskets, might need some stove cement in places. 1 rear brick is cracked; replaced right side brick. accidentally punched a small hole in the top of the combustion package - hope I don't have to replace it (thought it was just soot on some hard surface). I downloaded the manual - fyi - so I have some reference material.

My first Qs are:

1) should I purchase the Outside Air Kit for this stove; as I am in a manu home (not very well sealed) I would like to keep drafts to a minimum and maximize heat. As I will have to do some work on the floor for heat protection - best to install the OAK Before I lay the tile!

Good idea to minimize drafts. Combustion air needs to enter the stove from SOMEWHERE.

2) was reading somewhere about 'negative pressure', and 'stack effect' - have no idea what this means - could you provide me some links to minimize search/learn time

http://www.woodheat.org/all-about-chimneys.html

3) is it worth consulting w/ a local chimney/wood stove guy/gal? I'm hoping s/he can guide me through the install: assess whether I can use the existing chimney etc

Yes. Get a professional opinion. You CANNOT use the existing venting for a wood stove. It is NOT rated for the higher temperatures.

4) my manual talks about a 'positive connection kit' when using an existing fireplace chimney - but I can't figure out if that is for a 'fireplace insert' or 'freestanding' stove. My intent is a free-standing stove that vents through the existing chimney - which looks like an 8" pipe (as seem from the roof). The entire fireplace will be gone and wall(s) reconfigured. What is a 'positive connection kit' - other than stove pipe?

Positive connection is STOVE (CONNECTOR) PIPE securely fastened (ie. screwed) to a Class A chimney pipe. You will need to install Class A chimney & then the connector from the stove to the chimney.

Any other (supportive) musings/info is greatly appreciated

Thanks for your time!

Kelly
(needing cheap heat in the high rockies)

 

[hondochica]

Thanks for your reply Daksy - the link you provided has been very useful. Have appt's w/ 2 'installers' tomorrow
Appreciate your time and comments

Kelly

 

[hondochica]

@DAKSY . . (hope that works on this forum) - you said: "You CANNOT use the existing venting for a wood stove. It is NOT rated for the higher temperatures." Actually I want to run single wall 6" pipe through the existing 12" double wall fireplace metal flue/chimney pipe. My previous post may have led other readers to think I actually have a brick chimney (aka 'fireplace') - not the case. The building dept here thinks that should work - they don't have a problem w/ it, since the 6" will be 'insulated' by 12" OD double pipe. This assumes the 6" will fit - I haven't removed the old fireplace box yet.

I'd love to get "professional help" but I've called 6 companies and no replies - I imagine they are all booked - a couple other neighbors are looking as well. I'll keep looking but . . I'm on my own for now - with whatever help I can find here or on the web. I'm pretty handy - do alot of homework before I attempt something new.

Thanks again for your previous comment/reply. I'm still learning the jargon; your clarification of "positive connection = stove pipe" was helpful. don't know why the manual didn't just say "stove pipe"?? .

Kelly