what stove brand??

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Chrism said:
also it is a radiant stove right? i have a 15 month old who just started walking and touches everything im a little nervous cause if im not mistaken the outside of the stove gets crazy hot!!!

The outside of ALL stoves are going to get to hot to touch. The IR is a cast iron hunk a hunk of burnin' love.
 
Chrism said:
well from the things i was reading i think my situation calls for a convection stove not a radiant

http://www.chimneysweeponline.com/horadiantconv.htm

Beyond the room that the stove is located - you basically will not notice the difference between a radiant and convection heater. The argument of R vs. C is typically based off of how it heats in the room it is located in. Moving that heated rooms' air is a whole 'nuther issue, if that is why you are concerned with R or C.
 
yes i want the heat to meander through the house
 
Chrism said:
yes i want the heat to meander through the house

Then R vs C isn't really the discussion to have. Moving air is what will make that happen. Getting an air convection loop (hot at ceiling, cold at floor) moving the cold to the stove is the answer.

Again - R vs. C is for the most part, only important to the room it is installed in.
 
well i want to get the right stove r or c and i have ceiling fans that will circulate the air around
 
Chrism said:
well i want to get the right stove r or c and i have ceiling fans that will circulate the air around

Your going about it the right way. Do your stove homework.

Ultimately it comes down to a couple of basics. How much wood can it hold and how does it burn it (how fast or slow can it release the heat).
 
and im still toying with the fact of going straight up through the roof with the pipe or a 90 on the outer edge of the soffit?? any suggestions?
 
Chrism said:
and im still toying with the fact of going straight up through the roof with the pipe or a 90 on the outer edge of the soffit?? any suggestions?

If possible - straight is the answer. Better in every way.
 
I have a non-catalytic, small stove that I use 24/7. I am here most of the time so reloading isn't a big deal. I find that it is a bit of a pain to reload a non-cat stove and determine the right setting for the primary air supply to give a long but not-too-cool burn. I don't mind during the day, but if I want to start a fire and go to bed or leave the house it is tricky to know how to set the air just right to keep the secondary burn going but not overheat the stove. What I end up doing is not loading the stove full to prevent overheating, and sacrifice some potential heating from the stove. I wonder if a cat stove, where I think you just get the fire going and turn the primary air down to a smoulder, letting the cat do the burning, would be easier. My stove requires occasional adjusstments to the primary air during the burn cycle to keep it burning its best, or close to best. Maybe a cat is easier if you will be away.

I have a Lopi stove which is nice, but I have no experience with the other brands so I can't really say my brand is better.
 
Next trigger I pull will be for a Woodstock stove . Can't wait to feel the stone heat :snake:
 
Chrism said:
also it is a radiant stove right? i have a 15 month old who just started walking and touches everything im a little nervous cause if im not mistaken the outside of the stove gets crazy hot!!!

As a parent - this would worry me too - any stove. Make sure you gate it off so the little one doesn't get a burn.
 
Random thoughts . . .

If you're determined to stick with the three brands you mentioned I would say you can't go wrong . . . all three are well known, loved and have their fanboys . . . well except perhaps for the "Jodel" . . . must be a Chinese knock off of the Norwegian Jotul line of stoves. ;) HehHeh . . . at least you didn't spell it Yotul. :)

If you opt to go with the Jotul line up AND you have 1,600 square feet of home . . . I would recommend the Oslo . . . this has a reasonably large firebox and would give you longer burn times and could easily heat up 1,500 square feet of space (I heat an 1,800 square foot two-story Cape here in Maine with 1970s vintage insulation with the Oslo as my primary heat source). You could perhaps go for the Castine . . . but I am a fervent believer in the idea of sizing your home to the stove and then going ONE size larger -- more folks complain about under-performing stoves here than folks complain about being driven out by the excessive heat . . . of course it is possible to go overboard which is why I suggest one size larger. One negative with the Oslo and a corner install is that you are not supposed to use the side loading door in this case which is one of its best features.

Seems to me that you may be in a bind right now . . . if you buy a stove now to heat 800 square feet you will either get a stove sized correctly for your home now and be happy and warm, but when you build the addition the stove will not cut it and you'll be very cold . . . on the otherhand if you get a stove sized to the future addition right now you will be driven out of hearth and home due to the excessive heat . . . and I like being warm like any other person . . . but there is such a thing as too much heat (hint . . . when the goldfish are dead because the water is too hot, the stove is sized too large.) I guess what I'm saying is that in my opinion you may want to hold off on the stove purchase until you build the addition . . . unless that addition is going up soon . . . or buy a smaller stove for the current home and realize you will end up selling it and taking a bit of a loss.

Radiation vs. convection . . . sounds like your concerns here are moving the heat from the room with the stove to the rest of the house and burn injuries to your child(children). First off, all stoves can heat up a place, regardless of type . . . moving the air in the home can actually be easily accomplished by using a regular desk top fan that you probably already own . . . putting it on the floor and aiming it towards the room with the stove will blow cooler air towards the stove where it will be heated, the hot air will rise and then flow out into the areas vacated by the cool air that the fan has pushed towards the stove. Truth be told, even radiant stoves heat with some convection . . . and vice versa . . . for example, with my Oslo -- a radiant heater -- you can feel the radiant heat if you sit in front of the stove . . . and you can feel the hot air rising from the back of the stove with the heat shield in place.

Injuries to children . . . as mentioned . . . all stoves will burn hot enough to injure a child. Gates and fences are often used to protect little ones.

Sizing the stove . . . already mentioned, but I will mention this again . . . I believe it is prudent to figure out the size of your home, figure out what size stove you need and then go one size larger. This worked for me . . . and it has worked for many others. I can burn efficiently and cleanly in my larger stove on days when I just need to take the chill out of the house and I can keep the heat at a comfortable level when the weather is sub-zero . . . the key is knowing how to operate the stove . . . and perhaps more importantly knowing how to load the stove -- i.e. for taking the chill out of the house on a cool Fall day I use a partial load of my low-BTU wood chunks . . . vs. using a full load of my "good stuff" in middle of January.

So you like it warm? Who doesn't . . . but forget sitting in your basketball shorts and T-shirt . . . think sitting in your boxer shorts and your wife or significant other wearing next to nothing . . . simply because you can and it's warm enough . . . of course while this is usually a good thing to us Neanderthal men . . . the negative is if you have unexpected company knock on the door and you have to make a decision of hurrying to get dressed or becoming the talk of the town when you answer the front door wearing nothing but your skivvies.

24/7 heating . . . as mentioned . . . all stoves can heat 24/7 . . . there are no stoves that I know of that can only hold a fire in the metal or stone box for less than 24 hours . . . of course if we're talking stoves that you can light a fire and they stay lit for 24 hours straight without loading . . . well there are not many . . . perhaps the best known are some folks who say their Blaze Kings were able to do so . . . long burn times in a stove generally boil down to either having large fireboxes or having catalytic combustors.

Chimney . . . most folks say the straight shot inside and through the roof is the preferred method of installing as you may get some heat from the stovepipe and chimney, the draft should be good and it may be easier cleaning . . . that said I have an install that is out and up . . . which I did due to my home's construction . . . and it works quite well for me. I am plenty warm, draft is fine and cleaning is actually very easy.
 
So I hope with this question I can get a majority answer what heats an area hotter radiant or convection ?
 
Chrism said:
So I hope with this question I can get a majority answer what heats an area hotter radiant or convection ?

Immediate area? Radiant . . . is my guess.
 
Chrism said:
So I hope with this question I can get a majority answer what heats an area hotter radiant or convection ?

Heating "temp" is not a function of radiant or convection. It is a function of BTU's. So the answer to your question is: The stove that is creating more BTU's.

Or if you want to look at it from another angle. If you have a chair 10 ft in front of the stove, which style will heat the chair up better? - radiant.
 
Ok now that I annoyed u all with questions about wood stoves lol. Does anyone know anything about Clayton wood/coal furnaces? 1602m to be exact I'm thinkin I might be asking too much out of a wood stove.
 
Chrism said:
Ok now that I annoyed u all with questions about wood stoves lol. Does anyone know anything about Clayton wood/coal furnaces? 1602m to be exact I'm thinkin I might be asking too much out of a wood stove.

I don't know much specifics about that stove, but it is pretty common that a combo stove doesn't do either, well. Good coal stoves are designed different than a wood stove and same/same. If your gonna burn wood, get a wood stove. If your gonna burn coal, get a coal stove.

Oh - and if you were annoying us with questions - we wouldn't be here to begin with. Ask away. That is what this place is all about. :)
 
Not sure what I can suggest in terms of a wood stove. I've had an Ashley Imperial for the last thirty years which I mostly use on the shoulder seasons. What I like is the down draft which is essentially a metal tube that runs down the side of the stove enters into the bottom of the firebox. The purpose is to heat the air going into the stove so that it doesn't cool the fire allowing slower fires to burn. Sitting on top of the draft tube is a metal flap that is controlled by a bi-metal coil spring that controls the draft, or air going into the stove. When it is turned down often the wood just glows, with no flames allowing the stove to go a long time on a load of wood. It is not a modern efficient stove and there is limited secondary burning, but I find with loading several times a day with a stick or two the wood burns with a good blue flame which is what is to be aimed for. It has a heat jacket completely enclosing the stove so you don't get radient heat. I know that there are many better stoves on the market today, but these are some features that I have found to make a good stove. This stove represent a huge step forward from the stoves we used in my youth. The ashely has cast iron fire bricks that run half way up the fire box and heavy metal grates that sit ove a ash drawer. This provides three layers of metal between the fire and the floor. The bottom of the stove gets warm to the touch but never hot. The top part of the stove is perhaps 1/8 inch metal and allows for an efrficent transfer of heat to the metal box that surrounds the stove. Convection would be my choice for a smaller space, or if you have young children around as it doesn't have really hot surface that can be accidentially touched. The fire box is approx 18" wide maybe 20" high and 24" long and will keep a fire overnight. My place is in Northwestern Ontario and we get some pretty cold weather and this stove has heated a 2800 foot two story home in the past, but not totally comfortably. That is why I went to a wood boiler. The new stoves are more efficient in terms of burning, but I do believe often get less heat from the wood as there is much less areas for the heat to actually transfer into the room rather than going up the chimney. They however have less build up in the chimneys. I usually get a regular water pail full of creasote every three weeks. Jamie
 
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Chrism said:
Ok now that I annoyed u all with questions about wood stoves lol. Does anyone know anything about Clayton wood/coal furnaces? 1602m to be exact I'm thinkin I might be asking too much out of a wood stove.

We're not annoyed . . . getting to answer questions and express our opinions make us feel as though we're really smart and intellgent men and women . . . and not stove geeks. ;) :)
 
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yes the room where the stove is will be very hot so i was goin to put a ceiling grate in and pipe it to the bedrooms and each fan going to the bedrooms will be on a thermostat when the thermostat needs to be satisfied it will power up the fan and suck the hot air from the stove room to the bedrooms its only a 15' run so the air wont cool that much . in my head it seems like it should work????????????????????????
 
I would love to have a inline fan that moves 300 cfm but if I'm not mistaken the faster the air moves the more it will cool so I would like to see how many cf these fans move. What do you think?
 
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