What would it cost? (ball-park)

[cac4]

My house came with a heatilator fireplace...the kind that doesn't throw any heat. I'm told that this only has a b-vent pipe for a chimney, and to get a "real" fireplace/insert/stove...(the kind that does throw heat!), it would have to be replaced with a class-a chimney....

so what do you think it would cost me to do that? I know that stove/insert prices vary...so how 'bout "just the chimney" part?

don't know exactly how high it is, but since the house has 8' ceilings, ya gotta figure its 25-30 feet up there. and I ain't gettin' up there to do it. :cheese:

 

[STOVEGUY11]

$2000- $2500 Roughly for pipe. Then stove + someone to put it all in.

 

[cac4]

yikes. thats what I figured.

I'm thinking of just ripping the heatilator outta there. although, I'm not quite sure how to do that! LOL! I didn't see them put it in when they built the place. just showed up one day, and it was "in".
But the builder did some "armchair architecture", and the fireplace is in the "wrong" place in the room. totally screws up the hope of any comfortable furniture arrangement in the living room (the front-corner room in the pic). the center of the house is held up by a beam, so its all "open"...that room only has 3 walls...one of them taken up by the fireplace...not enough room on either side of it for anything. so that leaves 2 walls...anyway, I'm planning for a pellet stove, which will go unobtrusively in the front corner, and vent out the side.
A friend joked that we could build a dumb-waiter into the fireplace chase, and use it to haul pellets up to the living room from the basement! LOL!

 

[Hanko]

dont know what a ball park cost, detroit built a new one ten years ago, I heard 350 million ( yuk yuk) no seriouly I think the other guys right on material cost. thousand or so for install. you got a tall house guy

 

[cac4]

hey, I heard 1.2 billion (yes, thats "billion" with a "B") for the new Yankee Stadium. The original, in 1923, was 2.5 mil.

nah, my house isn't that big. It just looks it from that angle...walk-out basement on that side, and it sits up on a hill. Its just a little 24'x36' garrison.
these days, they don't even bother making garages that small. :roll:

 

[Hanko]

there not hard to install your self, im sure you have buddies than no a little about pre fab chimneys. somebody on thos site said that a good stove and chimney install is averaging 4500, sounds about right. but remember if you have wood, it will pay for itself in a few years

 

[KeithO]

At Menards, the Class A is less than $25/ft. Thus $750 for 30 ft. Then you need the band clamps every 3 ft @ $6 each = $60 Then you need braces to the wall sheathing (don't know the cost offhand). A T piece to get through into the room. A flashing for the roof. Storm collar to go above the flashing. Then rain cap to go on top. Inside you may need a piece of flex liner or double wall pipe to make the chimney connection to a new wood burning insert. Then the insert itself.

I strongly suggest considering a proper wood burning insert. Pellets have a price that is as volatile as crude (I guess that would mean constantly increasing). The only folks for whom pellets are a good financial option is folks presently burning fuel oil, next folks burning propane, next electricity. For anyone on natural gas pellets will be an increase in cost along with the inconvenience of buying, hauling, storing and schlepping bags around the house. Wood is a chore too, but the savings in cost (if you process wood yourself) can be several thousand $ per season. Similar savings will never materialize with pellets.

Harman stoves were done in by the sharp increase in pellet prices in 2006/2007 which left 23 000 pellet stoves unbought and ruined the company. It can happen again.

 

[Hogwildz]

Depending on size of current chimney..... Mine is 27', I ran DuraVent pre insulated double wall rigid, all pipe, cap, top plate, everything except lower block off plate was $1,081.00 which included shipping. Installed myself.
Insert was another $2,100.00 Also installed myself. So just the cost & install of the liner if you go the way I did, prolly anywhere from $1,350.00 to $1,800.00 I was say. Anything more is a rip off.
$2,000.00 to $2,500.00 for the pipe & install is not realistic, not here, not in my book. If anyone is wiling to pay $2,000.00 to $2,500.00 just for the pipe, I'll sell ya it for $1,800.00

 

[RedRanger]

Talk to a sweep first before you talk to the dealer trying to sell you. Maybe then you can do as I did and buy the stove/insert and pickup yourself and get the sweep to install it for you instead of the dealer. My own experience was- pu my own insert and get my sweep to install cost me $100 for the install, as opposed to $450 to the dealer.

Try it from both angles, and then, well good luck

 

[PeteD]

I am replacing my Heatilator builders box right now with a Lennox Brentwood.

I have priced my 6" Class A Pipe (Security Chimney ASHT+) components at about $1200 for 23 feet of materials, including 2 elbows which are big bucks.

Make some calls and you can do OK. What size pipe are you getting?

Pete

 

[begreen]

Is there any possibility of leaving the heatilator alone and installing a new freestanding stove centrally in the house? You could get a lot more even heat distribution and maybe a less expensive project.

 

[cac4]

I strongly suggest considering a proper wood burning insert. Pellets have a price that is as volatile as crude (I guess that would mean constantly increasing). The only folks for whom pellets are a good financial option is folks presently burning fuel oil, next folks burning propane, next electricity. For anyone on natural gas pellets will be an increase in cost along with the inconvenience of buying, hauling, storing and schlepping bags around the house. Wood is a chore too, but the savings in cost (if you process wood yourself) can be several thousand $ per season. Similar savings will never materialize with pellets.

Harman stoves were done in by the sharp increase in pellet prices in 2006/2007 which left 23 000 pellet stoves unbought and ruined the company. It can happen again.

oh, they are not that volatile. sure, they go up and down with the price of oil, but not nearly as sharply. I don't think you can blame Harman's problems simply on the price of pellets. they didn't go up that much.
Wood is a MUCH bigger chore than pellets, and its price (around here, anyway) goes up and down w/ oil, too. I don't have the room anywhere near the house (that could be kept clear of snow) for that much bulk, and I don't have the physical prowess to deal with it. I'd get a little free wood, living on a wooded 2 acres, there's always something falling down...but not that much. I'd only have to feed a pellet stove every couple of days, vs. every couple of hours...that just ain't gonna happen.
I am burning oil, though. as far as I can figure, the price difference will save $2000 or more per year. wood could probably save even more, but I just don't think it would be practical, for me. Oil will go up and down from week to week, but whats happening now is not what happened in the 70's; its not a "bump in the road", and the conditions that are causing it to be so high, are not going to change any time soon.
I just wanted to make sure I've got up to date info on the actual cost of setting my particular house up w/ wood, vs. pellets. My info was a little bit dated...

could I put a stove somewhere else?
well, look at the house. its a 2 story shoe-box. I don't see any way of getting out of putting 25' of chimney "somewhere". Seems to me that it would be most practical to put it in the "chute" that already exists. But if you have to dismantle the existing chase in order to properly install a chimney, maybe it doesn't make any difference. (how else would you get in there to do it?) I guess with vinyl siding, you can remove that without damaging it...cut out the plywood...do what you gotta do...replace/patch/whatever with new sheathing, and cover it all over with the existing vinyl, and nobody would ever be able to tell it happened. would that be the likely process?

 

[PeteD]

I don't see any way of getting out of putting 25' of chimney "somewhere". Seems to me that it would be most practical to put it in the "chute" that already exists. But if you have to dismantle the existing chase in order to properly install a chimney, maybe it doesn't make any difference. (how else would you get in there to do it?) I guess with vinyl siding, you can remove that without damaging it...cut out the plywood...do what you gotta do...replace/patch/whatever with new sheathing, and cover it all over with the existing vinyl, and nobody would ever be able to tell it happened. would that be the likely process?

I am going at mine from the inside (cutting an access panel in the chase through the drywall in a closet) - but mine is an interior chase. I don't think you would necessarily have to (or want to) take off the siding, but every case can be a little different.

 

[ddown]

Actually they did my Chase at 35' Yesterday. They took Ladder and went to top of Chase False one like yours. Took the top off and ran pipe through the wall and into the chase insulated the way up to cap. Cut through 2 layers at the top then the metal chase cap sealed it up, and have three feet above the now insulated chase. It wasn't cheap like 800.00 labor for 2 guys who new what they were doing but a very clean install.

ddown